I don't know what paper you're looking at... Ethel Mertz had low cheek bones.I was thinking Ethel Mertz.
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
I don't know what paper you're looking at... Ethel Mertz had low cheek bones.I was thinking Ethel Mertz.
This is incorrect. Microtilt and shimming a neck is a method of adjustment for a players preference, nothing less nothing more. It is used in the set up process when the neck is perfectly stable, reinforced and straight, and not due to any defect. Of course, you can use a shim in "non-prescribed" ways to sorta-kinda-halfway make a faulty neck playable...but thats a different story all together.The micro tilt is not rocket science, but if the neck/pocket/bridge are all made correctly, the bass should not need shimming.
If the neck is made with internal reinforcements and stays stable throughout it's life, shimming and micro tilt will not be a necessity.
Given a choice, I would rather have a five or six bolt than a three or four bolt attachment.
In the US, G&L guitars and basses don't stay long in a store. They fly off the walls. They are popular with those in the know.
Yup, yup, and yup.As I understand it, the idea of a shim is to bring the neck angle to a point where the bridge saddles have their intended full range of height adjustment due to inconsistencies in neck pocket routs, not necessarily to accommodate faulty necks.
To me, the only rationale for having a micro-tilt feature was to save time on the production line at the factory. The tilt feature replaces the time honored factory practice of installing shims on new guitars, commonly found on Fenders for decades. But not all necks need shimming, it takes time to determine which ones will need shims....neck on, neck off, etc. With the tilt, if shimming is needed just loosen a neck bolt, then quickly turn the micro-tilt allen screw to the desired position. Bam...done.
With modern technology neck pockets are cut with extreme accuracy and consistency. Hence, no need for shims or neck tilts.
OTOH, maybe the micro-tilt was simply a marketing ploy intended to appeal to buyers under the guise of...."new and improved".
that's probably just about exactly it. I bought a G&L back in 2000 because I walked into a shop and started playing it and loved it (and could afford it!). but even then I felt a little weird about it for a couple of years after as no one ever knew what the hell it was and that peer pressure even made me wonder about!80% of bass players happily either play a Fender or some sort of metal-ish Ibanez that they bought at guitar center without caring much about gear.
To the other 20%, I.e the talkbass folks, G&Ls aren't expensive enough to be viewed as a luxury or boutique status symbol. They don't have the cache of a US Lakland or a Sadowsky.
And because I seem to be the master of drifting off topic...To the other 20%, I.e the talkbass folks, G&Ls aren't expensive enough to be viewed as a luxury or boutique status symbol.
They don't have the cache of a US Lakland or a Sadowsky.
I bought a G&L back in 2000 because I walked into a shop and started playing it and loved it (and could afford it!). but even then I felt a little weird about it for a couple of years after as no one ever knew what the hell it was and that peer pressure even made me wonder about!
I agree. Pretty nice neck pockets on those older 3 bolt G&Ls which leads to the question.............then why did they go 6 bolt?
The body is smaller. The neck is not exactly a J neck. Same nut width, true, but my SB2 has a #8 neck which is a 12" radius. The J is a 9 1/2" radius. I like the flatter neck. It seems to be faster than a J.I can see that as he was originally a guitar player..I can't speak on he's actual bass, but I played an SB2 recently and it felt great..jazz style neck.body felt a bit smaller than my P bass..
That was a sweet gesture including the dorky cousin* in the family photo so he didn't feel left out.This thread inspired a family photo session of the SB-2 (2007), JB (2010), M-2500 (2014), and Comanche (2015). The JB and Comanche were custom orders through local dealers. I bought the SB-2 at a guitar show, and the M-2500 on line. The M looks almost black in the photo, but is Ruby Red Metallic, which might be my favorite G&L finish. It's tough to choose though. The JB has Lace Man O' War pickups, hence the lack of polepieces.
I normally prefer maple fretboards, but G&L does beautiful rosewood, and I think it takes some of the edge off the MFD pickups, which is especially awesome on the M-2500. I'd prefer maple on the SB-2 though.
![]()
Agree they're popular with those in the know, but I'm not sure they "fly off the walls" everywhere, and I suspect that's one reason more dealers don't carry them. Some dealers have told me it's easier to sell Fenders and other more popular brands.
For example, last week I visited a shop in New England that I'd been to in March 2016, and they still had some of the same basses and at least one guitar I'd seen over a year ago. The guitar, a beautiful Legacy in Emerald Green, was marked down to a very low price. One of my closest dealers, from whom I bought an L-1500 (since sold) and Comanche, has some that have been on the wall for a couple of years.
I absolutely love G&L's myself, and have four USA models: SB-2, JB, M-2500, and the Comanche. They're all fantastic. I still love the Fenders I've kept, a Jazz bass and two Strats, but overall prefer G&L's, which have kicked at least two Fenders and one DiPinto out of my herd.
If not many people know what a G&L is, there are probably a lot fewer who've ever heard of DiPintos!....I absolutely love G&L's myself, and have four USA models: SB-2, JB, M-2500, and the Comanche. They're all fantastic. I still love the Fenders I've kept, a Jazz bass and two Strats, but overall prefer G&L's, which have kicked at least two Fenders and one DiPinto out of my herd.