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G&L Club Part 7

The Laklands and the G&Ls are subtle variations on the same theme: a more perfect evolution of the Fender bass. Both build exceptional instruments, tailored to the slightly-divergent wants/needs of the builders. Leo obviously never stopped tweaking his design, and I consider the L2xxx to be the culmination of his vision. The Lakland basses branch off of the family tree somewhere not too far distant from the MusicMan instruments, and like the G&L have incorporated quite of bit of more-recent technologies into current designs. They're more alike than different, imho, and I don't think any of either user group would be terribly upset if they found themselves having to drive the other group's flagship instrument at a gig or session.

Having said all of that, I am particularly fond of the passive tone setup of the G&L basses. It's brilliant, even if slightly less-flexible than the Lakland LH3 preamp.

Up until I picked up my CLF L2500/750, my fretless Lakland 5502 had been the bass I always grabbed, now I'm genuinely conflicted about which one(s) to take to gigs. First-world problem, I know. Life in bass world is pretty good these days.

Full disclosure, I gig with these instruments, and they each have their strengths and weaknesses:
Alembic Series I 4-string (best sounding of them all, but it's heavy and requires an external power supply and special cable)
Lakland 5502 fretless 5-string (perfection in a fretless bass, imho)
G&L (CLF Research) L2500/750 5-string with wide spacing (just plug it in and go, any genre)
G&L Tribute L2000 4-string (just plug it in and go, any genre, and it didn't cost very much - might install flatwounds on it)
Ibanez EHB1506MS 6-string (I use it for jazz gigs where a 6-string can be handy, works without a battery)
LTD B208 8-string (great for power trio stuff, classic and progressive rock, huge sound)
Any of these except the 8-string could easily function as an only bass for me, but it's nice to have options.

John

Totally agree with your post. I "like" my L-2000 better that my 44-02 or 44-01 Lakland, and I tend to run my L-2000 passive. I like the cut only tone controls that work in passive mode !!
I owned my 2 Laklands (and a MIM Fender Pbass) way before I bought a G&L, my first G&L is an SB-1.
It's kind of blossomed from there LOL. Good for me I'm in a position to just keep them all at this point, and hopefully add another L-2000 and USA Made Lakland, eventually in the future. Take care
 
The Laklands and the G&Ls are subtle variations on the same theme: a more perfect evolution of the Fender bass. Both build exceptional instruments, tailored to the slightly-divergent wants/needs of the builders. Leo obviously never stopped tweaking his design, and I consider the L2xxx to be the culmination of his vision. The Lakland basses branch off of the family tree somewhere not too far distant from the MusicMan instruments, and like the G&L have incorporated quite of bit of more-recent technologies into current designs. They're more alike than different, imho, and I don't think any of either user group would be terribly upset if they found themselves having to drive the other group's flagship instrument at a gig or session.

Having said all of that, I am particularly fond of the passive tone setup of the G&L basses. It's brilliant, even if slightly less-flexible than the Lakland LH3 preamp.

Up until I picked up my CLF L2500/750, my fretless Lakland 5502 had been the bass I always grabbed, now I'm genuinely conflicted about which one(s) to take to gigs. First-world problem, I know. Life in bass world is pretty good these days.

Full disclosure, I gig with these instruments, and they each have their strengths and weaknesses:
Alembic Series I 4-string (best sounding of them all, but it's heavy and requires an external power supply and special cable)
Lakland 5502 fretless 5-string (perfection in a fretless bass, imho)
G&L (CLF Research) L2500/750 5-string with wide spacing (just plug it in and go, any genre)
G&L Tribute L2000 4-string (just plug it in and go, any genre, and it didn't cost very much - might install flatwounds on it)
Ibanez EHB1506MS 6-string (I use it for jazz gigs where a 6-string can be handy, works without a battery)
LTD B208 8-string (great for power trio stuff, classic and progressive rock, huge sound)
Any of these except the 8-string could easily function as an only bass for me, but it's nice to have options.

John


The L1k 750 series is a little further down the family tree than the L-2500 but it gets treated as the ultimate precision bass of my basses. The lakland 55-02 I have gets treated as my super jazz. It cuts like a knife and adds a decisive bass sound to the mix whereas the L1k bulldozes and acts as a foundation of the band's sound. (At least, that's how I use the two). I do prefer the Lakland for the church gig because it is quieter in the noisy circuit atmosphere of the sanctuary. The L1k is the main dad band rocker though.
Screenshot 2023-08-20 at 7.29.42 PM.jpg

IMG_3425.jpeg
 
They should be willing to sell the custom shop Fallout case separately, although it wouldn't be cheap. I'd ping 'em and give it a try, or ask a G & L dealer if he can score one.

Just an FYI
D&L has not responded to my e-mail from 4 or 5 days ago inquiring about a Fallout bass case. The G&L dealer I bought it through says it is NOT available.

So, the Epiphone Embassy Pro HSC it is ........................
 
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I'll agree, plus my L2K in an option order, exactly what I wanted. Empress body, 7.4lbs of "oh heck ya!"
I like both my M series quite a lot. They scratch my black bass itch. I'd love another L2K, possibly natural swamp ash with maple neck, totally different look. But still killer. What Lakland do you own, 55-02? View attachment 5175107
Stingray has a finish called Starry Night,
but, the Andromeda is the real starry night look. It makes one want to stargaze.

Great finish! Asimov would approve :thumbsup:
 
Some would call that smart marketing. Some would call it a rip off. Some would call it both.

Look at what they have and take the deal if they have something you like. I did not pay attention to a prices prior to the 15% off, but if it was a $50 increase then anything over ~$333 is at a better price with the sale than before it (even if the 15% is not as good of a deal as you might think you are getting).

Noting I am not necessarily fond of the practice. However, it is pretty common and their web store usually/currently has some solid deals.
 
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Look at what they have and take the deal if they have something you like. I did not pay attention to a prices prior to the 15% off, but if it was a $50 increase then anything over ~$333 is at a better price with the sale than before it (even if the 15% is not as good of a deal as you might think you are getting).

Noting I am not necessarily fond of the practice. However, it is pretty common and their web store usually/currently has some solid deals.
Yeah, there's a BTO ruby red metallic B-stock L-2000 that can be had for less than $1,100. I've had to tie myself down to keep from heading to my piggy bank with a hammer. (Do you know how hard it is to type when you're tied down??)
 
Yeah, there's a BTO ruby red metallic B-stock L-2000 that can be had for less than $1,100. I've had to tie myself down to keep from heading to my piggy bank with a hammer. (Do you know how hard it is to type when you're tied down??)
I saw that, and was sorely tempted. 1/58 nut and 9.5 radius neck is almost my favorite.(love the 12" radius best).
 
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