Yeah there are definitely angles at play here. Interesting thought about pickup shell variances (and therefore route size variances...).
Maybe @bonin in the boneyard can clarify?
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Yeah there are definitely angles at play here. Interesting thought about pickup shell variances (and therefore route size variances...).
Maybe @bonin in the boneyard can clarify?
Camera angle counts for a bit here. I was trying to measure distance to the split. In each photo, I was trying to aim the camera right down the crack between the splits. So that's where my measurement is most accurate. Anywhere else, and camera angle comes into play.
Gotcha. In either case, it demonstrates a difference in placement between the two.
I guess a 1/4" closer to the neck has a fairly significant impact on the MFD P then, huh?
I wouldn't even venture a guess given the other differences between these two.
But I always flinch a little when someone suggests getting the 2 for the versatility with the assumption that it can do whatever the 1 can.
The solution, of course, is to own both.
@bonin in the boneyard Curious... is the SB-1 you have a 3-bolt neck? I think they added about 1/8" to the heel of the neck when they went to 6-bolt. Wonder if everything just shifted accordingly. Then, at some point realizing this, they shifted it back, as shown in the comparison @jmlee posted. Just an off-the-cuff theory.
Based on photos, some days I wonder if G&L can hold + or - 1/4" tolerance.
On a serious note, I'd wager that 1/4" in distance has a very small effect on tone.
While we're on the split coil subject.
Thought you'd like to see some prototypes,
Thought you'd like to see some prototypes,
TIL! This actually reinforces my complete satisfaction with opting for the SB-1, good to know.
Thanks for that response. I actually have a Precision Elite and find that the neck pickup, in either active or passive mode, does not really sound like a true new or vintage P-bass. It's kind of its own thing.
When I was considering buying a new Stingray, I was seriously considering the HH for the versatility, though I much preferred the single H aesthetically. But after listening to many demos, was surprised how different the HH sounded solo'd on the bridge. I really like the sound of the SB-1, and the looks. Might have to consider a custom build.
I guess the answer, like always, is to buy one of each.
Yeah, I qualified it with not getting into arguments because if no one is willing to test them with a frequency spectrum analyzer or some such, then it's all quite inane.
To avoid the horrible prospect of getting two G&L SB basses, I'm sure that if you ask politely TBers who happen to own both will gladly record comparisons for you.
The SB-1 is an absolute gem of a bass. Unfortunately people who opt for a single split-coil pick-up tend to somewhat traditionalists which is why you don't see all that many out in the wild which aren't just a P clone of some sorts, redundant pickguard included
In development.
I think there's something goofy going on with one of those photos (some type of distortion, just like you pointed out). The 12th frets don't line up, so I'd be wary of the accuracy of pickup location comparison between the two.
Also look at the upper horn of the yellow one and how it projects further than the burst one.
Yeah, I did some massaging in ImageJ and, even if all the fret markers are superimposed, there's dimensional differences in the headstock and body. Likely someone got too close with a wide angle lens. Any analysis is only as good as the supplied data—and I'm a PhD physicist so I suppose I should know that...
BTW, the pickup offset seems identical from what I take to be very similar pickguards.
I understand parralax (Definition of PARALLAX) and have some experience with scaling photos as well as photo realistic sketches from drawings and, predicting real world dimensions. So odd that there is a difference since they appear to be viewed dead on straight and 90 degrees off the face of the instruments.
One would think that the basses are not terribly out of scale since the nut and bridges look to line up.
Which brings us back to who cares about the dimensions; do they sound similar (as there is no sound the same as if we are getting very particular, as no two of any bass sounds exactly the same).
[QUOTE="bonin in the boneyard, post: 24057556, member: 289421"
But I always flinch a little when someone suggests getting the 2 for the versatility with the assumption that it can do whatever the 1 can.
[/QUOTE]
Wouldn't pup loading immediately come into play with the SB2? Seems like the fair test would be to clip the leads of the 2nd pup and either add the tone control to the SB2 or eliminate it from the SB1.
Seems like way too many variables to make a decent prediction (as you have mentioned)
One would think that the basses are not terribly out of scale since the nut and bridges look to line up.
Which brings us back to who cares about the dimensions; do they sound similar (as there is no sound the same as if we are getting very particular, as no two of any bass sounds exactly the same).
[QUOTE="bonin in the boneyard, post: 24057556, member: 289421"
But I always flinch a little when someone suggests getting the 2 for the versatility with the assumption that it can do whatever the 1 can.
[/QUOTE]
Wouldn't pup loading immediately come into play with the SB2? Seems like the fair test would be to clip the leads of the 2nd pup and either add the tone control to the SB2 or eliminate it from the SB1.
Seems like way too many variables to make a decent prediction (as you have mentioned
)
Wouldn't pup loading immediately come into play with the SB2? Seems like the fair test would be to clip the leads of the 2nd pup and either add the tone control to the SB2 or eliminate it from the SB1.
Seems like way too many variables to make a decent prediction (as you have mentioned
Even if you cut that lead and add the tone control, you'd still have the magnetic interference from the bridge pickup. That's a lot of trouble to answer a question that's not that pivotal anyway.
I had not considered this.Even if you cut that lead and add the tone control, you'd still have the magnetic interference from the bridge pickup. That's a lot of trouble to answer a question that's not that pivotal anyway.
Not a challenge but looking for your technical opinion. Do you think that magnetic interference between the two pups, or because of extra magnetic pull on the strings from the bridge pup would be that audible? I have zero experience with this but am interested.
Pull on the strings. The MFD pickups have rather strong magnetic pull—you can really notice this when changing strings. The presence of the bridge pickup, which is typically closer to the strings, can certainly affect string movement and hence tone from the neck pickup, even if the magnetic restraint on the string movement is not strong enough to cause the too-close "wobble" effect. This is one of the arguments around the HH Musicman basses vs the single pickup versions. It's not something I've directly tested but the basic physics suggests there could be at least some effect.
I'd think you'd only get one pickup directly altering the magnetic field of the a second pickup (if at all) if they were pretty close to side-to-side. I'd think you wouldn't want to place pickups "side by each" in most bass designs unless you were running active pickups with quite weak magnetic fields. But for all I know the interference between pickups might have some positive tonal effect.
I'm going to take my L2500 to get setup in a few weeks. Its rare that I can't do it myself, but I just can't get the strings low enough on this neck. I don't need ultra low buzzy action - my default setup is Roger Sadowsky's default from his shop. I think that's considered medium low.
I think the issue is a few things - the bridge doesn't let the strings go low enough, maybe a bridge screw issue. Additionally the truss rod seems maxed out, but I'm not sure. I'm not going to push it. These are things a really good setup guy should be able to look at and fix.I just feel like this bass could play like a corvette if setup right. I played a G&L Pbass that had one of the best setups I have ever played, so I know they are capable.
Anyway once I made this decision I went to play the bass and one of the knobs just fell off. Almost on cue..lol. I got the Allen wrench to tighten it back on, and it just won't stay on. It slides right back off.Totally mystified there. I guess my setup guy will have some work to do.
I think the issue is a few things - the bridge doesn't let the strings go low enough, maybe a bridge screw issue. Additionally the truss rod seems maxed out, but I'm not sure. I'm not going to push it. These are things a really good setup guy should be able to look at and fix.I just feel like this bass could play like a corvette if setup right. I played a G&L Pbass that had one of the best setups I have ever played, so I know they are capable.
Anyway once I made this decision I went to play the bass and one of the knobs just fell off. Almost on cue..lol. I got the Allen wrench to tighten it back on, and it just won't stay on. It slides right back off.Totally mystified there. I guess my setup guy will have some work to do.
There is nothing worse than having a bass not at its best. Weather it be set up or electronics or just plain ol' hardware not working properly. A few weeks can feel like a lifetime. Hope it works out.
Curious to know what your luthier will do, let us know!
