G&L Comparison

[NYBassMan]

Looking to get a G&L 4 string. I have never played a G&L. I have played plenty of fender Jazz Basses before. I saw in a classified ad on here that the neck shape and carve are on the thicker side. Is this true for all G&L necks? Also, can anyone explain the tonal differences between the more popular G&L models. I would like as much information as possible to make the most informed decision. Thank you in advance.

 

[lug]

Here are the options for a USA made G&L bass....
USA Bass Options

 

[Jim C]

I have a 72' and 74' J bass.
The 72' has a very shallow (front to back) profile and the 74' is much more meaty (like a P bass) while both having a 1 1 2/" nut.
I have a JB2 Tribute and find the back of the neck (front to back) somewhere in between and actually better for my hand. Fret board radius is nothing I notice or care about so no help there.

I live in major metro area and would have to drive hundreds of miles just to try a US model.
There are 3 GC's really close by and I don't think they ever have had a G&L JB in stock be it Tribute or Fullerton.

Such a shame that a great company like G&L can't get any real distribution.
I rate their instruments along the lines of MM and I can try their basses in a ton of stores.

 

[NYBassMan]

I am looking to know what questions I would need to be asking a private seller on a used instrument. Now I know. Honestly I just want 1.5” nut and modern jazz profile on the neck.

 

[80jazz]

Perhaps a 9" or 12" radius is what you want?

If so, those are available with them.

 

[NYBassMan]

@80jazz thank you. I think the 12 is the flattest of the 3. I do a lot of fast finger runs so I need to make sure everything is accessible and not stressing the left hand too much.

 

[80jazz]

That may be what you need.

And, I, too, like the idea of a JB with 1.5 nut and 12-inch radius. Blackburst with maple fingerboard and white pearl pickguard or cherryburst with mint guard and ebony board for me please.

Or both.

Yeah, both.

 

[luciens]

Models with a 12" radius are kind of hard to find, but they are out there. I prefer the flattest radius available to help even out the string heights above the flat pickup poles. Shorter radiuses can be more comfortable, but the A and D strings start getting a mile above the pickup face with short radiuses, causing the dead A and D but super duper loud E string syndrome.

I have a 12" radius on my jaco artist and, though it doesn't eliminate the problem, it helps a fair bit. I don't find 12" to be uncomfortable to play either.

You can work around that sort of with the adjustable pole pieces on the MFD pickups, but that doesn't completely fix it either. Even if you follow the radius with the pole pieces, the middle strings are still slightly deader. Or they were on my L2K which had a 7/12" "vintage" radius.

As for the tonal differences, there are a fair number of videos on youtube where you can hear most G&L's. The Jazz basses like the JB seem to be a little brighter than Fender Jazz basses. And the L2000 and other MFD equipped basses are just super duper hotter in general; more highs, more mids and low mids, more everything.

L

 

[ebo]

I agree with @luciens , I have an L 2000 and it feels great and has more of everything. When I gig I don’t want to be switching too many settings between songs, but it’s nice to have options.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

I don't know why people think the control setup on an L2k is complex, three knobs, three switches, all intuitive and very high quality. I've had my L2K since 1983, it's a tank construction wise, and on the heavy side, but I don't feel it because it's so well balanced. When I bought mine, only 1 neck profile available, 1-5/8" nut with a flat " D" profile I find really comfortable. The MFD pups are monster output, but the controls give you a lot of options. Like most people, you'd probably find a couple settings you like and leave it there. When you turn the active switch off, the battery turns off. If the battery dies, it just reverts to passive without any action on your part required. The fit and finish is superb, far better than the average Fender in a similar price range. I have no experience with the Tribute models, but given how undervalued they are, go whole hog for an L2k, and get the neck profile you want.I

Ditto on the tone options, you can get a nearly Ric like clank with the treble boost, or really thick, fat lows.

 

[Nedmundo]

Models with a 12" radius are kind of hard to find, but they are out there.

Yes, they're nearly impossible to find new, because the standard radius is 9.5". But before mid-2015, the standard radius on the JB (and most other G&L bass and guitar models) was 12", so many used examples should have that radius. Problem is, sellers might not know, because in the early years of the JB, G&L basses didn't come with spec sheets, like my special-ordered 2010. I'm not sure when the spec sheets began, but my M-2500 (built late 2013) came with one.

I prefer the 12" radius, and got burned with the spec change on a Comanche guitar. I ordered when the 12" radius was still standard, but mine arrived with 9.5". It's still fantastic, but I'd like it even more with the 12" and might eventually replace it (and another guitar) with an HSS Legacy with 12" radius fretboard.

 

[luciens]

Yes, my (deceased) L2K was a '00 model IIRC, and it only had the cert. of authenticity. In fact, I didn't know it had the #6 neck on it until many years later when I removed it to do a repair and saw the label on the heel. I'd been playing on a 7 1/2" radius for nearly 20 years, wondering why the E string was so loud on the freaking thing and why I had to raise the A and D pole pieces so high... . I thought it had the #8 on it.

What's the battery life like on your M2500 BTW, just out of curiosity?

L

 

[ComeHomeShane]

Lots of good feedback already, here’s my two cents...

My work horse is a G&L custom build JB 2018. I live in Orange County, about 10 minutes from the factory, a good friend of mine works there. Lots of guys around here play G&L. I’ve a/b tested literally dozens of G&L P and J basses against fenders... G&L wins every time. The best way I can describe the tone on G&Ls that use alnico pups is ‘modern vintage’. It sounds like it should, but with that new car smell. Some ppl will never steer away from a fender P through an SVT. Me? I think every G&L sounds and feels better than every fender. There seems to be a trend lately where lots of players are putting geezer alnico pups on their G&Ls... that’s fine and all. It’s not my thing because I want my g&l to sound like a g&l. Especially if you get a model with the MFDs... taking out the MFDs is like buying a new corvette for parts... why?

Anyways, it’s 3 am and I’m ranting.

Somethings that bug me about my g&l JB(but are not deal breakers or even specific to g&l).
- as mentioned, the 9.5 radius does create excess pop on the E and G strings. One tb’r above described this problem as creating dead A/D strings. While that might be true with other brands, I would not say my A/D strings ever sound close to dead. The problem is that my G String is super hot...

I’ve done two things to balance this issue, and it has resulted in it almost being a non issue.
1. NYXL .45 - .95 strings. Their super bright when new, but once the zing is gone they absolutely sing on this bass.
2. Raise the G String action a little more than normal. The profile fits my hand so well that having the G raised a little bit isn’t a problem. I can mute it with the middle of my pinkie very easily without thinking about it too much.
3. Sure, once in a while I’ll pop my G String too hard and it will be way louder than I want, but guess what? I’m a musician and as such I’m able to adjust on the fly. The notion that a perfect instrument is out there somewhere that will but the cherry atop your perfectly articulated melody interludes is insane to me. A musician knows how to adjust on the fly, a musician can make a POS instrument sound great. Every instrument I’ve ever owned has had quirks that you need to adjust to a little bit. It’s not as big a deal as some guys make it. In the end, you can either groove or you can’t.

Lol, sorry, I’m still ranting.

A few other insights...
- My JB has an empress body. As a cover band bassist I wanted a light machine that wouldn’t feel like an anvil during set 4 at 1:30 am in some sweaty bar. At 7.1 pounds, mission accomplished. However, I would only get empress for the JB or kilotons. Any other model and you’re dealing with neck dive.
- the empress creates a poppy attack, but sustain dies quicker than a heavier bass with more dense wood. BUT, since I’m not playing just whole notes in my cover band, it’s a non issue.
- this bass truly sings from the 7th fret and up! If I’m doing a gig where I know I’ll be improvising a lot, or just popping the octave, this is the bass. Like I said, it’s my work horse.

Anyways, thanks for reading my rant. I hope it was helpful. There’s typically a steady stream of G&L used basses in our classifieds. IMO it’s a low risk purchase because G&Ls keep their resell value.

Good luck!

 

[ComeHomeShane]

@NYBassMan, to answer your original question about the different between the models... there are many youtube videos involving G&Ls, Steve Araujo does the Live at Leos demo all the models. The best G&L demo vids are by pro Ed Freidland who uses G&L... . There's three ways to go with G&L purchases for new basses...

The Tribute series is the out-sourced line. Sweetwater just picked up G&L distribution and there's a few different tribute models. I've played a few tributes and they all felt pretty good. Akin to the MIM fender models

The 'Fullerton Standard' is the USA (Fullerton, California) line that is not custom shop. They're made in the same production line and with all the same build quality as as the 'custom shop' instruments, but use more basic features that are quickly produced. G&L just expanded their Fullerton Standard line-up because sweetwater and they all feel and play great! Everything on sweetwater is either fullerton or tribute.

The Custom Shop is really where the value of G&L shines. This is where you can choose the woods of every part, choose a specific neck profile and/or get a quartersawn, have a huge variety of high quality finishes for the neck and body, and even have them install strap locks if you send them in! When I ordered my custom JB I upgraded every option and the price tag was $1600. The same bass today would probably be about $1800. But that more than beats the Fender custom shop where you're looking at a 3k beginning price.

Models...
- LB100 - P bass equivalent. More mid presence, tons of clarity compared to the Fenders.
- JB - Jazz equivalent. Same as above.
- SB1 - P style bass with the same neck as the LB100, but a slim contoured body. The pick-ups are a P style split single coil, both MFD (magnetic field design, leo's last pick-up design). Most guys will describe it as a P bass on steroids. The MFDs are very hot pups.
- SB2 - The fender PJ equivalent. Split coil MFD on top, Jazz style MFD on bottom. Very versatile, lots of players like it because they can actually get P and J tones.
- Kiloton - Same slim P style body as the SB1 with a single MFD in the bridge position. This is kind of a frankenstein bass, using a P body, JB neck, and humbucker MFD near the bridge. It sounds like a passive Stingray. I personally love it, but it's a hit or miss for most players.
- L2000 - Active bass with a beefy P style body with the MFD humbucker close to neck. Too me, this is the most iconic G&L bass that sounds most unique. Also come in Double H versions that has an MFD near the bridge.
- M2000 - Active HiFi style bass with the same MFD options as the L series, but revoiced electronics and the most on-board tone options.

I currently own the JB and kiloton, which have the same neck. It allows me to swap out bass with my cover band depending on what style of music the set uses. I also have a L2500 which I use in a hard rock band that likes me to have the low B string. I'm a big G&L advocate, hence the multiple long posts.. Hope it helps.
- Shane

 

[Maxdusty]

@NYBassMan, to answer your original question about the different between the models... there are many youtube videos involving G&Ls, Steve Araujo does the Live at Leos demo all the models. The best G&L demo vids are by pro Ed Freidland who uses G&L... . There's three ways to go with G&L purchases for new basses...

The Tribute series is the out-sourced line. Sweetwater just picked up G&L distribution and there's a few different tribute models. I've played a few tributes and they all felt pretty good. Akin to the MIM fender models

good review on the various models out there and agree on your assessment but imo not all Tributes are like that MIM Fender models to their US Fender brethren comparison. Those Tribute models with the MFD pickups are a lot closer and in fact sound pretty much exactly the same. The L2000, M2000 (discontinued but you might be able to find them used, I had one), and the JB-2 sound close to or exactly like their US made counterparts as they use the same pickups.

 

[NYBassMan]

@ComeHomeShane Thank you for all the detailed information. I purchased a G&L USA G&L SB-1 from a fellow TBer in Margarita Green metallic with matching headstock. Let me tell you. The fit and finish of that neck makes it the best I have ever played hands down. It's the satin finish. I feel like I may have found my brand as they play and sound amazing and in all seriousness are not ungodly expensive.

 

[Nedmundo]

What's the battery life like on your M2500 BTW, just out of curiosity?

Incredibly, I've used the same set of batteries for six years, even though my M-2500 got fairly heavy use for gigs and rehearsals during the first four of those years. I think it's because I almost always cut the bass and treble EQ and leave the mids flat, so the preamp isn't doing all that much. I boosted the bass for a few tracks here and there, but not enough to use much juice. I keep thinking the batteries will be dead whenever I break out the M, but I test them and they're fine. I'm sure many players would go through batteries more quickly.

This leads to my only complaint about the M--the lack of a freaking quick-change battery compartment. How difficult is that? We shouldn't need a screwdriver to change batteries in a USA-made bass anymore. It's ridiculous.

Somethings that bug me about my g&l JB(but are not deal breakers or even specific to g&l).
- as mentioned, the 9.5 radius does create excess pop on the E and G strings. One tb’r above described this problem as creating dead A/D strings. While that might be true with other brands, I would not say my A/D strings ever sound close to dead. The problem is that my G String is super hot...

I’ve done two things to balance this issue, and it has resulted in it almost being a non issue.
1. NYXL .45 - .95 strings. Their super bright when new, but once the zing is gone they absolutely sing on this bass.
2. Raise the G String action a little more than normal. The profile fits my hand so well that having the G raised a little bit isn’t a problem. I can mute it with the middle of my pinkie very easily without thinking about it too much.
3. Sure, once in a while I’ll pop my G String too hard and it will be way louder than I want, but guess what? I’m a musician and as such I’m able to adjust on the fly. The notion that a perfect instrument is out there somewhere that will but the cherry atop your perfectly articulated melody interludes is insane to me. A musician knows how to adjust on the fly, a musician can make a POS instrument sound great. Every instrument I’ve ever owned has had quirks that you need to adjust to a little bit. It’s not as big a deal as some guys make it. In the end, you can either groove or you can’t.

My JB also had this issue, even with the 12" radius. We wouldn't encounter this problem if G&L raised the poles for the A and D strings like some pickup makers do, and as common sense would suggest. I addressed it by lowering the pickups a little, which mathematically/proportionally narrows the gaps between the heights of the strings. (I think I lowered them more on the treble side.) This helped quite a bit. Then I got DiMarzio Area J pickups with radiused poles, and problem completely solved.

 

[ComeHomeShane]

@ComeHomeShane Thank you for all the detailed information. I purchased a G&L USA G&L SB-1 from a fellow TBer in Margarita Green metallic with matching headstock. Let me tell you. The fit and finish of that neck makes it the best I have ever played hands down. It's the satin finish. I feel like I may have found my brand as they play and sound amazing and in all seriousness are not ungodly expensive. View attachment 3862748

Yup.

 

[ComeHomeShane]

good review on the various models out there and agree on your assessment but imo not all Tributes are like that MIM Fender models to their US Fender brethren comparison. Those Tribute models with the MFD pickups are a lot closer and in fact sound pretty much exactly the same. The L2000, M2000 (discontinued but you might be able to find them used, I had one), and the JB-2 sound close to or exactly like their US made counterparts as they use the same pickups.

Thanks for the intel. I’ve never played a tribute L or M. Perhaps I’ll keep a look out in the classifieds.

 

[Maxdusty]

Thanks for the intel. I’ve never played a tribute L or M. Perhaps I’ll keep a look out in the classifieds.

No problem. Forgot the Tribute Kiloton too, that also uses the same MFD pickups. Terrific sounding basses for the money. I've owned three models (the L2000, M2000 and SB2). The last one, the M2000 GTS was a limited run and has a finish you'd typically only get with the US G&L models, translucent finish, binding, carved body , it's also a fairly light bass - yet it is a Tribute model. Most of the Tribute models are no frills basic finishes and/or colors.