Pardon me for sounding like an idiot. But I got this bass like 2 years ago "used" (the guy bought it, returned it two days later without even playing it. His loss, I saved $). Anyways, I've kind of been winging it with the switches. I know what they do, but I don't know what they do... So what do they actually do to the sound? Like I know it when I play it but I'm wondering what it is in technical terms. Confused? I'm sorry, I am too...
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G&L L2000 what do the switches do?
- Thread starter bassdownlow23
- Start date
The front switch lets you choose pickups or to run both; the middle switch is a coil tap; and, the last switch lets you choose between active, passive, and active with a treble boost or mid scoop type thing. Very versatile electronics.
Well... it depends on how old it is. On the really early ones, such as the '81 L2000E which I had for years until I sold it about a year ago 
the middle switch lets you choose between humbucking mode and "single coil with bass boost" mode. On ones made after the early '80s, I believe, the middle switch lets you choose between series and parallel modes, but the pickups are always humbucking.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
This site is good for G&L info:
The G&L Enthusiasts Website
the middle switch lets you choose between humbucking mode and "single coil with bass boost" mode. On ones made after the early '80s, I believe, the middle switch lets you choose between series and parallel modes, but the pickups are always humbucking.Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
This site is good for G&L info:
The G&L Enthusiasts Website
Now that you mention it you're right, it is series/parallel, not a coil tap. It's been a few years since I sold mine. Great bass, I should've kept it.
- Oct 14, 2009
- 17
- 0
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Zon Basses, Ampeg, Ernie Ball Strings
Not that he needs me to 'defend' him, but Liam's been around the block a time or two, so I'm sure he's speaking from the experience of several years of hard use with his L2000 on the road.
-JV
-JV
It depends on what you mean by "break". My experience is that the those mini switches are tough as nails. At least as good as their big "clacky" cousins. But that said, let me say that the big problem with them is that because of the small hole they mount in plus the "give" of the wood when mounted like on a G&L, they have a tendency to come loose and rotate "often and easily". And when they do that not only do they start to have the action in the wrong direction, but then they start to break the wires attached to them. And that of course makes the bass "broken" even though technically the problem isn't the switch. The answer is to regularly check the switch nuts for being tight with a spin-tite and to be SURE to tighten them up the minute you find they are loose and rotating again. Do that and they'll serve you just fine.
The odd thing is that these switches come with a flat washer with a tab on it designed to keep the switch from rotating if it gets loose. Oddly most manufacturers never seem to use it and if they do they put it on upside down so the locking tab does not engage the wood. I guess drilling one more tiny hole for the tab is just too much work.
