You know, I use medium gauge strings, and it hadn't occurred to me to try lights. That might actually work. It wasn't terrible far off.
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G&L SB-1 vs L-1000
- Thread starter Larry Mal
- Start date
You know, I use medium gauge strings, and it hadn't occurred to me to try lights. That might actually work. It wasn't terrible far off.
I have owned (or currently owned) all 4 basses that the OP lists on the original post.
SB2 (mine has the tone control custom ordered from the factory, so an SB2T)
SB1
Kiloton
L1000
I had the L1000 for a brief time. Out of the 4 basses, it was the one that I've not sought to replace because the other 3 bass models cover all of my sonic needs. The L1000 wouldn't bring anything too different to the party. If I could have only 2 of the 4 basses to cover the widest range of sonic territory, I'd hang onto the Kiloton and either the SB1 or the SB2T. That's in theory, anyway. This is TalkBass so having fewer basses instead of more basses seems to be in violation of a cosmic code of ethics that I don't want to hamper with.
SB2 (mine has the tone control custom ordered from the factory, so an SB2T)
SB1
Kiloton
L1000
I had the L1000 for a brief time. Out of the 4 basses, it was the one that I've not sought to replace because the other 3 bass models cover all of my sonic needs. The L1000 wouldn't bring anything too different to the party. If I could have only 2 of the 4 basses to cover the widest range of sonic territory, I'd hang onto the Kiloton and either the SB1 or the SB2T. That's in theory, anyway. This is TalkBass so having fewer basses instead of more basses seems to be in violation of a cosmic code of ethics that I don't want to hamper with.
Yeah, that's the thing... over the years, the SB-1 has kind of evolved into something that would slot into where a P-bass could go, but that's always where the L-1000 lived anyway.
Does anyone know if the split MFD on the SB-1 is much different from the L-1000 MFD?
Does anyone know if the split MFD on the SB-1 is much different from the L-1000 MFD?
That's the perception. The interesting thing is that a loading capacitor (I have them in all my instruments, which is a very long story if I tell the whole thing, so I won't) does absolutely nothing to the low end response of a pickup's output. What it does do is take away some of the very highest frequency stuff, and shift the resonant frequency of the pickup/cable system (which occurs in the upper mids/lower treble range) downward in frequency. The perception of "more balls" is an auditory trick - since there's less of the tinkly stuff to distract you, you hear more of the remaining stuff, including whatever frequency range "balls" falls into.
I should mention that I did own an L-1500, and I liked it, however I did find the preamp to be noisy in my recording environment and while that wasn't enough to make me sell it on (divorce did), I would prefer the passive nature of the Kiloton, I think.
Honestly I never got to spend all that much time with it.
Honestly I never got to spend all that much time with it.
The Kiloton pickup isn't located all that close to the bridge, especially compared to a Jazz or the SB2 bridge pickup. The Kiloton is much more mellow than what you would hear from a bass whose pickup is close to the bridge. At least that's what my ears tell me.
Given your previous encounters with an L1500, I think you'd enjoy playing a Kiloton.
It's not either/or.
With the three positions + volume/tone, that pickup goes just about everywhere.
I have to add that none of the demo vids I've seen, from pro ones to weird little comparison vids, come anywhere close to demonstrating the power and versatility of the kiloton.
Oh, I like the new headstock that G&L has. I think it looks sharp.
It's clear that the Kiloton would offer me a lot more sonic variety than the L-1000 would.
I guess I could buy the L-1000, then sell either that or the SB-1 depending on which one I liked better.
It's clear that the Kiloton would offer me a lot more sonic variety than the L-1000 would.
I guess I could buy the L-1000, then sell either that or the SB-1 depending on which one I liked better.
If this doesn't work it's a bolt on neck so a good luthier can use a heat press to easily correct the issue you're facing. Worked for me with a bass in the past, it's a decent and not too expensive option.
I see a lot of bass demos in which the middly, Jaco tones used are ones I don't seem to be able to produce on any bass, let alone want. Plus lots of jazz funk stylings which hold no interest for me. So I've listened to videos of the Kilton and not been sure, but on the basis of reviews on YouTube I'd hate a Precision too.
I have an SB-2 and an L-2000, both with bi-cut necks. I don't think there's a lot of overlap in tone or feel, except for the inherent G&L thunder in the lows. The SB-2 is incredibly easy to dial in on the fly, and somewhat versatile. The L-2000 is more versatile but less 'easy' because each switch flip requires different knob settings.
But my favorite of 3 G&Ls is my first generation SB-2, with the pair of single coils. The neck is a rock and three amazing tones are always available by just flipping the switch.
But my favorite of 3 G&Ls is my first generation SB-2, with the pair of single coils. The neck is a rock and three amazing tones are always available by just flipping the switch.
Is this a story you've tole elsewhere? I'm trying to determine pickups/wiring for a bass that i want to sound very deep/balsy, no treble required. Considering mfd or dimarzio mode j. Thoughts appreciated.
This thread talks a bunch about it:
Change a pickup's resonant frequency and tone with a loading capacitor
