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Geddy's bass tone

#281
so, if the Geddy jazz bass neck is so problematic, and need frequent adjustment, why he doesn't ask fender to make him neck with graphite rods like they have on other models?
and how really you adjust the Badass bridge? is the action high or low? do you groove the saddles? - and i saw Geddy pic with his jazz bass on a cover of bass player greatest players edition. and the intonation look Little to much far, at the E string? why is that?
 
#283
tomersg said:
so, if the Geddy jazz bass neck is so problematic, and need frequent adjustment, why he doesn't ask fender to make him neck with graphite rods like they have on other models?
and how really you adjust the Badass bridge? is the action high or low? do you groove the saddles? - and i saw Geddy pic with his jazz bass on a cover of bass player greatest players edition. and the intonation look Little to much far, at the E string? why is that?
Click to expand...

I can't comment for Russ, but as to the intonation of the bass, you should see my Geddy Clone. It's the damnedest thing. The E, A and G are all just slightly higher as they progress, almost a straight line. but the D string saddle sits a full 1/2 inch higher than the rest. But 2 different tuners swear it is spot on. My P copy is closer to what one might expect, but the D and G are dead nuts even....

I guess intonation is what it is depending on each set of strings.....or each specific bass....
 
#284
ProfGumby said:
I can't comment for Russ, but as to the intonation of the bass, you should see my Geddy Clone. It's the damnedest thing. The E, A and G are all just slightly higher as they progress, almost a straight line. but the D string saddle sits a full 1/2 inch higher than the rest. But 2 different tuners swear it is spot on. My P copy is closer to what one might expect, but the D and G are dead nuts even....

I guess intonation is what it is depending on each set of strings.....or each specific bass....
Click to expand...

I'll second that! On my Tanglewood (Cort) Curbow 5 string the 'B' saddle is flush against the end of the bridge. IIRC the 4 string version I had before it was similar, I seem to remember having to remove the spring from the 'E' saddle to get enough space to move the saddle back far enough. Once done, both basses intonated perfectly though.
 
#285
Russ -
earlier you mentioned that Fender will replace the tuning pegs that come on the GL. I called Fender and they said that they know of no exchange program, although the vintage pegs can be ordered from them. Is there someone specific that one needs to talk to at Fender in order to do the exchange that you mentioned?

Thanks

Dan
 
#286
Dan Ervin said:
Russ -
earlier you mentioned that Fender will replace the tuning pegs that come on the GL. I called Fender and they said that they know of no exchange program, although the vintage pegs can be ordered from them. Is there someone specific that one needs to talk to at Fender in order to do the exchange that you mentioned?

Thanks

Dan
Click to expand...

If I read your question correctly, I'm assuming your thinking that Fender will exchange your current tuning pegs for upgrades.
That is not the case.

There is suppossed to an upgrade on the new basses coming out. I believe they will also switch to a satin finish on the neck as opposed to the gloss one. have not heard of a date or seen any inthe stores as of yet.

While the tuning pegs are a little sloopy, they work. I'd be interested in a tweak to the way the pups are wound. The stock vintage pups are a bit thin. A little more winding would be a vast improvement. The basic tone is there, it's just needs a little more...kick! The bridge on mine is especially pitiful, very thin.
 
#287
glwanabe said:
If I read your question correctly, I'm assuming your thinking that Fender will exchange your current tuning pegs for upgrades.
That is not the case.

There is suppossed to an upgrade on the new basses coming out. I believe they will also switch to a satin finish on the neck as opposed to the gloss one. have not heard of a date or seen any inthe stores as of yet.

While the tuning pegs are a little sloopy, they work. I'd be interested in a tweak to the way the pups are wound. The stock vintage pups are a bit thin. A little more winding would be a vast improvement. The basic tone is there, it's just needs a little more...kick! The bridge on mine is especially pitiful, very thin.
Click to expand...

I guess I misunderstood the deal on this. Thanks for clarifying it!
 
#288
I have been asked this question quite a bit outside this forum, as well. I thought they would do a replacement thing but I may have heard wrong. I'm sorry for the confusion and apologies to Fender for my possible wrong information.




Dan Ervin said:
Russ -
earlier you mentioned that Fender will replace the tuning pegs that come on the GL. I called Fender and they said that they know of no exchange program, although the vintage pegs can be ordered from them. Is there someone specific that one needs to talk to at Fender in order to do the exchange that you mentioned?

Thanks

Dan
Click to expand...
 
#289
OK,
I've said this before, I think. Even though you might use the same brand and gauge of string, the intonation can be quite different. The string can vibrate correctly but still have to be adjusted quite a bit at the saddle. I really don't know about the graphite rod thing. I get a bass and set it up that suits the artists. It is not my interest in telling Fender, or any other manufacturer, how to make an instrument.

I'll say it one more time, I get an axe and deal with it. I've only mostly talked about Jazz's as I'm just relating my experiences with what I have dealt with Geddy.

I mostly deal with guitars and could go on on some other forum about that. I'm just relating with Ged and his gear.



tomersg said:
so, if the Geddy jazz bass neck is so problematic, and need frequent adjustment, why he doesn't ask fender to make him neck with graphite rods like they have on other models?
and how really you adjust the Badass bridge? is the action high or low? do you groove the saddles? - and i saw Geddy pic with his jazz bass on a cover of bass player greatest players edition. and the intonation look Little to much far, at the E string? why is that?
Click to expand...
 
#293
Yes, thank you.


ProfGumby said:
I can't comment for Russ, but as to the intonation of the bass, you should see my Geddy Clone. It's the damnedest thing. The E, A and G are all just slightly higher as they progress, almost a straight line. but the D string saddle sits a full 1/2 inch higher than the rest. But 2 different tuners swear it is spot on. My P copy is closer to what one might expect, but the D and G are dead nuts even....

I guess intonation is what it is depending on each set of strings.....or each specific bass....
Click to expand...
 
#294
Ok, I'm not sure I follow you about adjusting the action on a BadAss?

Is it high or low? In my experience, that depends on each different bass. I think you may find the radius of a neck varies between different makes and years of a same model. Jazz, P's, Ric's Hofner's etc, have changed ever so slightly to quite a bit. I adjust action accordingly with that radius. Saddles should not be exactly even in height. They should be adjusted according to string gauge, radius of the neck, etc.
To each their own, I guess.
I have never had to groove the saddles of a BadAss bridge. I say this as the few times I am bass teching, it's been already done, including Ged.
If I have to put a BadAss on, and I have to groove, well, I will do it. I have spare BadAss bridges that are already done from Fender, for Ged.

I have the tools to do this if need be.


tomersg said:
so, if the Geddy jazz bass neck is so problematic, and need frequent adjustment, why he doesn't ask fender to make him neck with graphite rods like they have on other models?
and how really you adjust the Badass bridge? is the action high or low? do you groove the saddles? - and i saw Geddy pic with his jazz bass on a cover of bass player greatest players edition. and the intonation look Little to much far, at the E string? why is that?
Click to expand...
 
#295
Russ,
Don't know if you ever heard the Max Webster song "Battle Scar" from 1980? Rush guest performed on that song. There is a 30 second intro with Dave Myles and Geddy trading bass licks. Pretty cool because you can really hear Geddy's sound and style contrasted with another bass player.
 
#297
Russ Ryan said:
My answers are once again from my experiences.

I find climate changes can greatly affect a guitar. I find humidity is the major factor when it comes to neck adjustments and how the body of an acoustic guitar reacts. I find temperature changes will affect tuning but not as drastic when it comes to how wood reacts.

Temperature changes will affect metal very quickly. Metal expands and contracts with temperature change, thus the strings do this very quickly. I have done a million outdoor shows where the temp will be 80 degree's during the day but drop to 60 just after sundown. The guitar will go very sharp in tuning because of this. The neck, etc, won't change much, even if the humidity changes, at such a short time.

If an axe stays in the same environment, were humidity and temp are pretty much constant, I would think you wouldn't have to do that much in the way of adjustments.

When I was in Allaire Studio's with Rush, during the recording of Snakes & Arrows, I had to keep most of the guitars in a separate room with humidifiers, constantly maintained around 55%. Humidity changed so drastically there, that for the first few days days, after Alex decided to record guitar there and had a whole bunch of his acoustics and electrics sent there, until I realized this, some of his acoustics were unplayable until I could get them in a controlled environment. Solid bodies were not that affected as bad but still had to be tweaked almost everyday.

Dudes, this is were I earn my money. I would fill the humidifiers up with water before I called it night. These were the small units you buy for your house, apartment. I guess being a tad paranoid and wanting everything to be perfect the next day for Alex and Ged, I would set my alarm to get up around 4 or 5 am to check on the humidifiers to see if they needed water.

I know, it probably sounds stupid. I did this for a few days until I had it set with the humidifiers so I could actually get a full nights sleep.

The things you do for money.

The new neck on Ged's main bass is a bit more stable than the original, but not much.

I don't know who would setup his basses at home, before me. I'm sure he has tweaked here and there but if I haven't seen his basses in awhile, it doesn't looked like he has done much or if at all. I live in Toronto and so does he so I guess it is easier for him to just call me and have me come around and do any work he might require, when I have time.
Click to expand...

35% is the perfect humidity level for maple. Other woods may vary somewhat. One problem is big swings in humidity but the real enemy of a wooden instrument is a humidity level below 20% Wood shrinks in low humidity and it grows in high humidity. One of the main reasons there is finish on an Instrument is to slow the changes in humidity in the wood. Naked instruments sound wonderful but they don't hold up. :bassist:
 
#298
Guy's and Girls!

You have all been saying kind words and many of you have mentioned that you have already acquired tickets for this Rush 08 tour. Always good and glad to have you there.

If I don't respond to all who said they will shout out to me, I'm not being a jerk!!!
I have a job to do, so if I seem to ignore you, please don't take offense.

We are glad to have you all out there. Seriously!!!!!

This has nothing to do with basses, but I just wanted to let you all know.

Thanks again for all your insights!!!
 
#300
I used to think the same thing as far as around 35%. I set it around this level for this first 24 hours and no change. I found in the studio we were at, that 50 to 55% seemed to be the optimum for the acoustics. The acoustics all had full finish on bodies and necks. Alex and I both thought that seemed high, but when you are dropping major dollars a day, you do what you have to to make it work.
I'm not agreeing or disagreeing with you. I really have found over the years, and most guitar techs I know would concur, finished or unfinished guitar, it doesn't seem to matter much when it comes to drastic humidity changes.

Once again, my two cents.



Ric5 said:
35% is the perfect humidity level for maple. Other woods may vary somewhat. One problem is big swings in humidity but the real enemy of a wooden instrument is a humidity level below 20% Wood shrinks in low humidity and it grows in high humidity. One of the main reasons there is finish on an Instrument is to slow the changes in humidity in the wood. Naked instruments sound wonderful but they don't hold up. :bassist:
Click to expand...
 

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