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Geddy's bass tone

1: I think I have explained this. We use the original Palmer PDI-05. They are active and do not put a load on a amp. The Palmer PDI-03, put a load. GED prefers the sound of the ORIGINAL Palmer's, PDI-05, of which I have mentioned above.

I have already explained this, we go through a Trace amp because it has been determined it sounds GOOD! We have tried using dummy loads, etc, BUT the actual speaker load seems to sound better. The reaction of an actual speaker just sounds better to us. It may not work for you. I'm not saying I'm right, it just works for the sound Ged wants and our engineers!

Putting a speaker in a sonic box that has no integral part of the sound, mic wise, etc, seems redundant. It is only used to put a load on the Trace!


Hello Russ;

There are two things about Geddy Lee's ampless set up I have never understood. Perhaps you could clarify;

1. Why not use the type of Palmer speaker simulator that creates a load thereby eliminating the need for a speaker cabinet.

2. In #1, if a real speaker load is necessary for a desired sonic quality, why not put the speaker in a sound insulated isolation box?

Please advise.
 
Okay,
Am I missing something? I thought I had passed my experiences along quite a bit about this subject. You may want to read past posts from not only myself, but all who has made some great contributions to this subject!

Sorry Russ, I may have missed your explanation on how you make truss rod adjustments on Geddy's bass easier (and since you said in the post just before mine that you were going to work on explaining your process and get back to us, I may have gotten confused and thought more was to come)

It is something Fender should really consider going forward (putting the access to the truss rod at the headstock or routing out an area to get in there without removing the next or pickguard)
 
Sorry, I missed understood what you were saying. My apologies. Fender did put the trust rod on the headstock on some of their guitars in the 70's, the old "Bullet" truss rod adjustment, but I don't remember if they did that to any of the basses.

I agree that Fender should put some kind of a recessed notch in the pickguard. I have mentioned this to them. I take off the pickguard and do this for Ged's basses. It's to long to write in this post but it involves a Dremel tool!

Once again, do not do this at home if you are new to this!


Sorry Russ, I may have missed your explanation on how you make truss rod adjustments on Geddy's bass easier (and since you said in the post just before mine that you were going to work on explaining your process and get back to us, I may have gotten confused and thought more was to come)

It is something Fender should really consider going forward (putting the access to the truss rod at the headstock or routing out an area to get in there without removing the next or pickguard)
 
Originally Posted by bimplizkit View Post
Once upon a time around 1984, I started learning to play the bass. I soon discovered that I would be addicted for life, and at the time, Geddy Lee's playing was my foremost inspiration.

Now then, once again here is my 2 cents on the subject of
"How Geddy sounds"....

It has very little to do with what bass he is playing, or what bridge he is using. Listen to this with your ears, not with your eyes.



My ears say you're running some effects, like maybe a little chorus? :D I like your attack on the strings, btw.

That was me playing and thanks for the complement. Even without the chorus on, The RD Artist can do Geddy's sound (plus much more). You don't need to have a Ric and Baddass bridge. It is more attack and other elements of technique than the particular guitar and amp, although some guitars and amps, set right, get the sound better than others.

I have a 73 Ric and used to play "What You're Doing" when I used to gig about 15 years ago. I had a Crate solid state amp. My Ric had (still does) the original bridge. I could get thet "Geddy" sound or not without moving a knob on the guitar or amp, it depended upon how I attacked the string and the resulting differences in overtones.
 
Sorry, I missed understood what you were saying. My apologies. Fender did put the trust rod on the headstock on some of their guitars in the 70's, the old "Bullet" truss rod adjustment, but I don't remember if they did that to any of the basses.

I agree that Fender should put some kind of a recessed notch in the pickguard. I have mentioned this to them. I take off the pickguard and do this for Ged's basses. It's to long to write in this post but it involves a Dremel tool!

Once again, do not do this at home if you are new to this!

No sweat Russ! I just appreciate your insights! Will unbolting the neck (I dont fully take the screws all the way out, jut enough to create some space) create issues with intonation or action?

I *may* eventually use my Dremmel and route out an area (I was thinking about that for a while now anyway) but for now, it means me loosening the screws. Thanks again.
 
Oh and what, if any, advantage is there to having the access to the truss rod be at the tail of the neck? There shouldnt be any tonal advantages, right? So even with a routed out area, wouldnt it be much easier to put it at the headstock?

I just got one of those Squier Vintage Modified Fretless bass's (it KIND OF looks like Jaco's old bass) and the access to the truss rod is at the head. Makes it SO much easier.

Ok sorry, just ranting there...
 
I couldn't agree more. It would be so much easier to put the adjustment at the headstock. I don't know if there is any particular reason Fender puts it where it is now.


Oh and what, if any, advantage is there to having the access to the truss rod be at the tail of the neck? There shouldnt be any tonal advantages, right? So even with a routed out area, wouldnt it be much easier to put it at the headstock?

I just got one of those Squier Vintage Modified Fretless bass's (it KIND OF looks like Jaco's old bass) and the access to the truss rod is at the head. Makes it SO much easier.

Ok sorry, just ranting there...
 
I personally have never had to unbolt a neck to make truss adjustments. I can't say I'm a fan of this but if it works for you...
Adjusting the truss will always affect action and intonation, to some small point.


No sweat Russ! I just appreciate your insights! Will unbolting the neck (I dont fully take the screws all the way out, jut enough to create some space) create issues with intonation or action?

I *may* eventually use my Dremmel and route out an area (I was thinking about that for a while now anyway) but for now, it means me loosening the screws. Thanks again.
 
+1 for this info, please. I have had to adjust mine several times and if you have tips I would appreciate it. Also do you think Fender is going to change the design on the Geddy model going forward considering everyone has trouble with it?

Jeez, I hope they don't change it. I've been playing for 27 years, have owned at least 25 basses, and the GL Jazz is easily the most enjoyable of them all (and probably one of the least expensive). It's just a moderately delicate instrument that needs fairly regular attention, but it's worth it.
 
Jeez, I hope they don't change it. I've been playing for 27 years, have owned at least 25 basses, and the GL Jazz is easily the most enjoyable of them all (and probably one of the least expensive). It's just a moderately delicate instrument that needs fairly regular attention, but it's worth it.

I just meant change the position of the truss rod access from the tail of the neck to the headstock. Pretty minor.
 
I just meant change the position of the truss rod access from the tail of the neck to the headstock. Pretty minor.

I'd rather they just provide a tool (sort of like a little crowbar) that would allow adjustment of the neck as it is ... the more effort it is to tweak the neck, the more careful about it I am. But I can certainly see your point.
 
I'd rather they just provide a tool (sort of like a little crowbar) that would allow adjustment of the neck as it is ... the more effort it is to tweak the neck, the more careful about it I am. But I can certainly see your point.

+1 I wouldnt mind a little tool (hmmm...little tool...=) to help with it. Its really not a big deal, just a minor gripe on an otherwise GREAT instrument.
 
Good question, which I forgot to address. To get at the truss rod on Fender Jazz's, with pickguards, can be a pain in the you know what. Taking off the pickguard is not incorrect in any way.
I have way of doing truss rod adjustments with the pick guard on, but please believe me when I say it is difficult to explain without photos, video, etc.

I will try and see if I can explain it properly in text. You all must understand, I don't want anybody ruining an instrument because I may have not explained everything properly. Let me work on this as this is such a great question.




I do have a question for you, though. I've had a GL Jazz Bass for about 6 years now, and I really love it. I've tweaked the truss rod just a bit since I got it, but I just removed the pickguard and adjusted the end that way. When I was finally happy with the setup, I put the pickguard back on. Is this the incorrect way?

Wow, thanks for getting to this question! I thought I'd lost you on the neck-shimming thing. ;)

I am absolutely thrilled to be able to get the input you're able to provide everyone on this forum. I'm sure it takes a lot of time and effort for you to do so, and it's really appreciated!

Tom
 
People dont realize how much your hands play into your tone. Geddy Lee is as perfect example, over the years he has played quite a few different basses and they all seem to give the "geddy Lee" sound.

I couldn't agree more, geddy's tone doesn't come from his bass, it comes from him, you would be suprise if you sit down and try different plucking techniques, you be suprised how much your overall tone changes with different playing posoitions, and styles
 
I couldn't agree more, geddy's tone doesn't come from his bass, it comes from him, you would be suprise if you sit down and try different plucking techniques, you be suprised how much your overall tone changes with different playing posoitions, and styles

Yep, just moving the pinger plucking position from the bridge over to the top frets will change the sound from Jaco Pastorius-like to 60ies blues...

--Kent
 
I couldn't agree more. It would be so much easier to put the adjustment at the headstock. I don't know if there is any particular reason Fender puts it where it is now.

I have heard only one reason as to why Fender places the truss adjustment on the heel. Having the adjustment at the headstock requires removing extra wood from the weakest area of the neck. Heard this from a few repairmen and I think in a book somewhere. The "teardrop" plug at the top of the headstock supposedly is not just for decoration, but helps regain strength in the nut area of the neck that was removed to install the truss rod. Don't know if this is true but I have never seen a broken Fender bass headstock; but I've seen plenty Guild and Gibsons with busted headstocks.
 
I have heard only one reason as to why Fender places the truss adjustment on the heel. Having the adjustment at the headstock requires removing extra wood from the weakest area of the neck. Heard this from a few repairmen and I think in a book somewhere. The "teardrop" plug at the top of the headstock supposedly is not just for decoration, but helps regain strength in the nut area of the neck that was removed to install the truss rod. Don't know if this is true but I have never seen a broken Fender bass headstock; but I've seen plenty Guild and Gibsons with busted headstocks.

Thats a good explanation. Thanks. I think going forward they should then route out a small area and provide a tool to better adjust the rod. My Geddy is pretty sensitive to weather/humidity changes and I need to adjust the neck frequently.
 
I have heard only one reason as to why Fender places the truss adjustment on the heel. Having the adjustment at the headstock requires removing extra wood from the weakest area of the neck. Heard this from a few repairmen and I think in a book somewhere. The "teardrop" plug at the top of the headstock supposedly is not just for decoration, but helps regain strength in the nut area of the neck that was removed to install the truss rod. Don't know if this is true but I have never seen a broken Fender bass headstock; but I've seen plenty Guild and Gibsons with busted headstocks.

While itis possible, I dunno about it's accuracy....if this was the case every Fender that has a truss rod adjust at the headstock and every fender copy too would be breaking headstocks like mad.....never heard of one breaking unless said bass was dropped etc....

Sorry to hijack, we now return you to your original programming....
 

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