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Getting Ampeg SVP-PRO + Crown XLS 602

Just bought an older Ampeg SVP-PRO preamp yesterday and it should be here next week :hyper:

I was told it was in "new condition like it had been put in a closet and never played" and still came in the original packaging. I actually like the look of the previous version over the most recent that was discontinued.

I'm gonna pair it up with a Crown XLS 602 I bought a few weeks ago to run an Ampeg SVT-610HLF & an Ampeg SVT-808HE, both cabs rated at 600 watts each. For most gigs I'll use my SVT-450H head since it's lighter and I prefer the classic look, then use one of those cabs.

This is my first adventure into the true tube world. Any tips on this SVP-PRO/Crown combo I should know about? This rig will probably be pushing alot of air when I bring it out.
 
I've been using an SVP-Pro preamp for a while...

Right now I power it with my GK800's power (effects return), pretty much the same thing as you're talking about.

It's a great sounding pre, only thing is it can have a pretty good 60 cycle hum.

Personally, I would try some good 12ax7's in the first 3 valves.
You will get noticeable tone changes trying different tubes.
*There are 4 12ax7's and 1 12au7. The au7 is for the drive control. There's a whole thread on that alone, I think.

Also, I've gotten the best results (and the least hum) by turning the master volume almost maxed.

Also I never use the graphic, but that may be something you like... FYI, the graphic eq is solid state! I thought it sounds much better without it.

Another thing is the Drive control... Adjusting the drive control will completely change the frequency of your bass, specifically in the Low register.
That was one thing that kind of bugged me about it and I ALWAYS kept the drive all the way down because of that.
I still was able to get that warm tube fuzz, but I'm not playing metal either.

I think you'll like it... I'm actually replacing mine with a Sansamp VT bass, only because I'm worried it will crap out on me on the road. Plus it's made some strange noises lately and It's happened twice onstage.
But mine has been HEAVILY used.

If you can get past the hum you'll love the thing.
 
I used to use an ampeg svp pro preamp. Great sounding pre. I found that the driver tube "12ax7 farthest to the right when looking at it from the front" is the tube that was the most sensative to hum. A tungsol wont work in that position without loud hum. Tubes that did seem to work in that position without hum were chineese tubes or eh12ax7. If you have hum try experimenting with different tubes in that position. Mine was very quiet with the right tube in there.
 
The problem everyone is discussing is with out a doubt a earth problem. What the issue is a potential difference in your earth between the preamp and the power amp. What verified this to me was the guys who use the di output don't suffer from this hum. This because there is a isolating transformer between them and the signal. All you need to fix the issue is to purchase a good quality. and lots of car audio stores stock them. A good Earth loop isolator and use this between the preamp and the power amp. Problem solved.
 
SVP-Pro plus a heavy-duty power amp is still my favorite rig ever. Ive had that setup twice, and was stupid to let it go both times.... always in search of better. Well, for me there isn't, as I've discovered too late.

Make sure to load it up with high quality tubes and go crush!!
 
Here is the serial number decode:

Serial BBPDP500xx (my svp-pro is for sale in TB classifieds)
Model BBP SVP-Pro
Country D US domestic
Year P 2003
Month 5 May
Serial 00xx

From the chatter I've seen, the late models have less issues with hum and noise.
Link to TB SVP-Pro Schematic thread

My 2003 model is factory stock with these tubes:

V1 - Groove Tube GT12AX7C
V2 - Groove Tube GT12AX7C
V3 - Groove Tube GT12AX7C
V4 - ElectroHarmonix 12AU7A/ECC82EH
V5 - ElectroHarmonix 12AX7E

Link Removed

[ edit ]

The Preamp Out has more juice than the XLR balanced out.
This last weekend, I had mine out all night long using the P.O. into my PLX-3002.
It had more than sufficient juice to drive the snot out of the PLX.
The DI is for FOH, and will not drive a power amp to full power.