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Getting re-fret - some luthier comments

#21
I wouldn’t really care if a luthier didn’t know anything about the history or legacy of my particular instrument. Knowing “iconic” models is not a prerequisite for being a good luthier; it falls under the purview of dealers and collectors.

Some of his other questions and comments strike me as highly irregular, though. Enough that I probably wouldn’t have left my instrument with him.
 
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#22
Gilmourisgod said:
There is a qualitative differene between a "tech" and a Luthier, though minus some kind of formal licensing procedure, I 'm not sure how you can confirm the difference.
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I have an issue with that statement. A good tech needs to have all the skills of a luthier PLUS the the ability to fix broken parts. It takes skill to create an angled headstock from a piece of wood, which is something I have done. It takes another skill to repair one that has broken offf and is in a number of shattered pieces. I have done both. A friend who is a fine local luthier with an international reputation won't even try to do the latter - he sends them to me.

So I am not sure about the "qualitative" difference you speak of. There are highly qualified techs, lousy luthiers and vice versa.
 
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#24
I am surprised someone that claims to do fret work doesn't understand how to handle fingerboard radius.

The proper way to get your frets ready to install is using this most excellent tool.
s-l1600.webp

I believe these are called a fret radius roller tool.
 
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#28
Yeah, naw man. He is not the one.I’d recommend just shipping the bass to someone who knows their stuff like John Maghini or Brian at The Low End. There’s probably at least a dozen techs in Nashville who would do a fine job, like Glasers.
 
#29
rolfplamperton said:
Yeah, naw man. He is not the one.I’d recommend just shipping the bass to someone who knows their stuff like John Maghini or Brian at The Low End. There’s probably at least a dozen techs in Nashville who would do a fine job, like Glasers.
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Was trying to stay out of that….$250 shipping each way from Hawaii. Already an expensive repair and wanted to keep it local.
 
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#32
J Wilson said:
I don't know this bass, you, or this guy you're going to use, but I am not encouraged by your post.

I would research what full-time business in Hawaii is an authorized factory repair for the major brands and run this past them.
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I actually have a Fender dealer / authorized repair shop nearby, but the guy who I knew and had done professional work on my stuff in the past no longer works for the shop. The repair guy they do have now I didn’t get good vibes from. (Yes, much worse than the guy I used)

I reached out to the old tech to use him from home, but he’s really dragging it out and I don’t get good vibes from the reluctant and sparse responses.
Lo-E said:
Given the rich string instrument history in Hawaii, surely there HAS to be somebody local who does great fret work?
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I’ve known some great luthiers here, ukulele and guitar makers that work with koa. They usually only work on their own builds. This was the next best guy, classically trained violin repair who got into fixing and rebuilding Martins who by trade does fretwork. I think at least that part makes me feel ok.

As for luthiers vs techs - most of the other people I know just do builds, maybe a minor fret level but not refrets.

I’ve seen some pictures of similar work that this guy has done on dreadnoughts and he seems like he knows what he’s doing.
 
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#33
Rayjay said:
I actually have a Fender dealer / authorized repair shop nearby, but the guy who I knew and had done professional work on my stuff in the past no longer works for the shop. The repair guy they do have now I didn’t get good vibes from. (Yes, much worse than the guy I used)

I reached out to the old tech to use him from home, but he’s really dragging it out and I don’t get good vibes from the reluctant and sparse responses.


I’ve known some great luthiers here, ukulele and guitar makers that work with koa. They usually only work on their own builds. This was the next best guy, classically trained violin repair who got into fixing and rebuilding Martins who by trade does fretwork. I think at least that part makes me feel ok.

As for luthiers vs techs - most of the other people I know just do builds, maybe a minor fret level but not refrets.

I’ve seen some pictures of similar work that this guy has done on dreadnoughts and he seems like he knows what he’s doing.
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You're in Hawaii? I can't imagine you have a ton of local options.

Hopefully it goes ok.
 
#34
Wyvern said:
You're in Hawaii? I can't imagine you have a ton of local options.

Hopefully it goes ok.
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Very few options and they're always changing. Like others have said I could have sent it to a world renowned Fender expert but shipping costs would have killed the budget. It's a great neck but not worth that much effort.
 
#36
Rayjay said:
Just dropped my bass off to get a refret. It's a Fullerton Reissue 62 jazz, made in 83 that had been converted to fretless at some point. These are such great necks I decided to take a chance bringing it back to full glory. I decided to use a new to me luthier, but took my time picking him for his lack of reluctance compared to the other guys I asked, and for his recommendations from some friends. Good experience but he had some interesting comments during the meetup.

First of all, nice guy, and he had a big collection at his house of mostly basses. No red flags with the house or the shop setup or any of the repairs I saw.

But first he was a bit baffled by the concentric pots, which he never saw before. He thought they were a mod.

He asked about me "taking it apart" but he meant it had no pick guard (Jaco style). I had to explain I liked the look and intended to use it like that, and have the pick guard if I change my mind.

Then he was concerned about the frets I bought (Dunlop 6230 nickels) - specifically, that they would match the radius of my bass's board. Well, to the best of my knowledge, a fret will conform to the radius regardless of what it is. Am I right?

Also, he asked if I happened to know the radius (if it was 12" or 9 1/2"?) so I said pretty sure its vintage spec 7 1/4" - but he was quick to retort they never made them that tight. I didn't bother to argue.

Then he asked if I was having him refinish the body. No! I said only what we had discussed which was fret only and anything related (new nut etc). Glad we discussed that....

Not exactly deeply concerned but that's where my bass is now! I'll update in a few weeks. Should be ok, right?!? View attachment 7529724
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A neck can be re-fretted without the body. So you could just ship the neck. A fret does not necessarily conform, it can actually fight you back a little. The fretboard prep is an important step and those boards are all different. The slotting is hugely important ,depth and width. The tangs on the fret is important. If not slotted correctly pounding in a big tang can force a bow. Lots of fun things to be aware of during a simple re-fret. After they’re in the leveling is a thing. Everyone has an approach here but the end result should be clear notes when plucked on every note and every string. All the way up and down the neck. Including open. To do this it usually falls within a certain spec. If the action is too high or low or relief is off. Or nut slotting. It will not play out on every note. Then there is string bending lol. We as bass players don’t bend much but there should be an understanding of it by the tech. I could go on and on lol. Since it’s underway and there is no turning back let’s all buckle up and grab some popcorn.
 
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