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Gibson Ripper Club!

How good is the Ripper?


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    121
I’ve come to prefer lighter gauged strings over the years. They don’t really lose any bottom. And their lower mass allows for greater string excursion even with a lighter touch (which is what the pickup senses: the string’s excursion rather than its mass) so they generally have a little more immediacy, snap and punch.

I mostly look for strings between 40-45 on the G and 100 on the E side these days. I’m ok with a 105 or 106 for my E, although I’d rather they were round cores if so. But that’s me.

Of course if I like the sound and feel of a string set that much, I’ll put up with heavier gauges. The LaBella Copper White Nylons are a good example since they’re one of my all time favorite strings. And the lightest they come in is: 50/65/85/105. Which sounds huge but is actually surprisingly comfortable to play.

So I guess it’s one of those things where you really need to assess each set on its own merits. I went through a phase where I must have bought close to half of what was out there just to try things out. It was an expensive exercise. But it was kinda fun. :)
I’ve come to prefer lighter gauged strings over the years. They don’t really lose any bottom. And their lower mass allows for greater string excursion even with a lighter touch (which is what the pickup senses: the string’s excursion rather than its mass) so they generally have a little more immediacy, snap and punch.

I mostly look for strings between 40-45 on the G and 100 on the E side these days. I’m ok with a 105 or 106 for my E, although I’d rather they were round cores if so. But that’s me.

Of course if I like the sound and feel of a string set that much, I’ll put up with heavier gauges. The LaBella Copper White Nylons are a good example since they’re one of my all time favorite strings. And the lightest they come in is: 50/65/85/105. Which sounds huge but is actually surprisingly comfortable to play.

So I guess it’s one of those things where you really need to assess each set on its own merits. I went through a phase where I must have bought close to half of what was out there just to try things out. It was an expensive exercise. But it was kinda fun. :)

Ohh no what I was getting at was, would this be ok on the ripper? As In would it be safe? As I’ll be top loading because the strings aren’t long enough to go through the body.
 
Hey guys, sorry to get off topic. I just scored a 1981 Ripper myself! I love it! Although I noticed potion 1 and 4 are extremely low output. Is this normal? Position 2 and 3 sound amazing! Any help would be greatly appreciated!
1 should be very strong. 4 always sounds a bit weird to me. I think most people use 1 and 3. Get a wiring schematic. Previous owner might have changed things. Does the 81 have the Bill Lawrence pickups? Later Epiphone reissues used different pickups.
 
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As wired by the factory:
Position 1: both pickups in series
Position 2: bridge pickup only
Position 3: both pickups in parallel
Position 4: both pickups out of phase

To my ears, position 4 is thin and nasal sounding but it can be cool with the right EQ. The other 3 positions have roughly the same output. There’s no way position 1 should less output than positions 2 or 3. I suspect that somebody re-wired your bass along the way.
 
As wired by the factory:
Position 1: both pickups in series
Position 2: bridge pickup only
Position 3: both pickups in parallel
Position 4: both pickups out of phase

To my ears, position 4 is thin and nasal sounding but it can be cool with the right EQ. The other 3 positions have roughly the same output. There’s no way position 1 should less output than positions 2 or 3. I suspect that somebody re-wired your bass along the way.

Is this something to be concerned about with the pickups? Or is this an easy fix?
 
Does this look correct? I’m not sure how to measure pickups. The pickups look to be original though. Sorry if I’m coming off as a knuckle head haha. I don’t know much about electronics.


DF0DCF82-FFCC-48E1-901C-958F6DB1F520.jpeg 3C724789-99D5-4DF3-B3BD-DF5E10567EF1.png
 

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As wired by the factory:
Position 1: both pickups in series
Position 2: bridge pickup only
Position 3: both pickups in parallel
Position 4: both pickups out of phase

To my ears, position 4 is thin and nasal sounding but it can be cool with the right EQ. The other 3 positions have roughly the same output. There’s no way position 1 should less output than positions 2 or 3. I suspect that somebody re-wired your bass along the way.

Update:

So I took it into a tech and they said the four way position switch was okay and the wiring was wired properly to the schematic. He couldn’t find a fault. He recommended switching to a 3-way switch, but I definitely don’t want to do that. What should I do? Should I replace the 4-way switch and see if that fixes it? Or should I just get a completely new wiring harness?
 
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Maybe something is wrong w/one of the pickups. I have 4 way switch on my 77 Ripper. Position 1 is the strongest. I would not go to a 3 way to solve a problem. Find out what the resistance in ohms of the coils in the pickups is supposed to be. 2 coils in each pickup. One coil could be bad. The switch itself is good? There is a coil, not pickup coil under the pickguard that is wired into the system. I don't know what it is for. Has a long screw going through it w/nut on its end. Is it there on your Ripper? That might be defective.
 
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Maybe something is wrong w/one of the pickups. I have 4 way switch on my 77 Ripper. Position 1 is the strongest. I would not go to a 3 way to solve a problem. Find out what the resistance in ohms of the coils in the pickups is supposed to be. 2 coils in each pickup. One coil could be bad. The switch itself is good? There is a coil, not pickup coil under the pickguard that is wired into the system. I don't know what it is for. Has a long screw going through it w/nut on its end. Is it there on your Ripper? That might be defective.

I’ll call him back and ask if he measured all of the pickups. Wouldn’t the pickups be working properly if position 3 is still strong?
 
No, in parallel wiring there are independent paths for the wiring through each pickup. I don't know where you are from, but think the old US Christmas lights vs. the Asian Christmas lights. The US wiring was in parallel so if one light went out, the others remained lit. The Asian sets are in series so if one light goes out, they all go out. In both positions 2 and 3 on your bass, it is likely that the bridge pickup is dominating and providing the majority of sound.
 
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Not to be snarky, but find a tech who can solve your problem. If the switch is ok and the wiring is factory spec there is zero reason to think that replacing the switch will do anything other than reduce the value of the bass.

I totally agree with you. Unfortunately, it’s hard to find someone around here that knows how to work on stuff like this. I still wished I lived in LA at this moment :banghead: . I am wondering if I should just request a refund on eBay.
 
Not to be snarky, but find a tech who can solve your problem. If the switch is ok and the wiring is factory spec there is zero reason to think that replacing the switch will do anything other than reduce the value of the bass.

^This.

Anytime I hear a tech propose to replace the rotary switch with a 3-way, I immediately suspect they really don’t understand how a rotary switch actually works.

Definitely check the coil resistance of each pickup. They should be pretty closely matched and around 7.1K if I recall correctly.

There’s always the possibility one of the coils in one of your pickups is out. The coils are easy to damage if someone decided to take the guts out of a cover for a look see - or even worse, tried to do some sort of coil split surgery on it. I’ve seen both happen.

One of the problems with getting a used (which is the only way they now come) Ripper is the wiring is a little unusual and somewhat delicate. These days its switching scheme is less mysterious than it once was because more elaborate switching schemes have since gone mainstream. But for the first decade or so after it came out, the only passive bass with a more arcane electronic design than a Ripper was the Peavey T-40. So there’s a very real chance someone in the past might have borked something if they cracked the hood and started poking around. It happened far more frequently than some of us would like.
 
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I’ll call him back and ask if he measured all of the pickups. Wouldn’t the pickups be working properly if position 3 is still strong?

It’s only when a pickup is soloed that you’ll really notice. And since you normally can’t solo the neck, if the bridge is ok but not the neck pickup, then it’s hard to tell since position 1 and 3 are still the same number of working coils even if half of the neck pup is out. In position 2-bridge-only there's two working coils if it’s ok. So the difference between 1, 2, and 3 isn’t going to be that great output-wise.
 
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I greatly appreciate all of your responses! I asked the tech to measure the pickup output to weigh my options.

The person that I bought the bass from is being really cool and willing to pay for any repairs. I’m hoping it doesn’t need a new pickup, because wouldn’t that devalue the bass a lot?