Gibson Ripper Club!

[Rsteady]

Since there aren’t lots of these things.
I own a 1978 Ebony Ripper I found at guitar center somewhere around 2003-04, I can’t remember for sure. For $875.00 in St. Louis, Mo. It’s in pretty good shape for how beat up I’ve seen these rippers can get. The tuning keys have oxidized, and some one had played it a lot. It’s got some mileage on it. It’s the nicest thing I own. I love it. Been wanting to join the ripper club for a while. Played this beast pretty regularly for about a year and a half bout 7 years ago, and ever since then, that neck and I are good friends. Happy to join this club.

 

[Rsteady]

. My 1978 ripper.

 

[tomydacat]

Good morning Ripper Family . I’d like to join in . I just got mine recently .. I believe mine to be a 75 .. mine has issues with the 4 way toggle and the luthier couldn’t find one so he got me a 6 way so I have actually 2 more voicing so can use..

 

[tomydacat]

Not sure why the like button is not available

 

[Bunky]

Thoughts on this ripper? Looks like paint job, aftermarket pickguar, string ferrules missing(?),my guess is 77 or earlier.

 

[Bunky]

 

[msb]

I passed on one years ago and it’s remained a regret . That looks like a whole bunch of fun . So go for it . Funky refin ! Any idea what Salaba means ?

 

[Bunky]

I passed on one years ago and it’s remained a regret . That looks like a whole bunch of fun . So go for it . Funky refin ! Any idea what Salaba means ?

No idea. Buddy said he bought it in 86 and it just sat in his closet.

 

[mongo2]

I had a '70s Ripper, twas OK sounding.

 

[ColoRADoKT]

I know refinishes are blasphemous, but the refin on this helped me score a 1975 Ripper for a decent price in this hot used guitar market!

Also, I’ve always been a sucker for walnut…so this just felt right. Hopefully it’ll be here by Tuesday!

I’m part of the club now, boys!

 

[Rsteady]

No more guessing. Anyone can find out the date of their Ripper. Search Gibson serial number decoder, there are a few sites that can help.

 

[Rsteady]

And welcome to the club!

 

[ThaCoast]

View attachment 4659639 Thoughts on this ripper? Looks like paint job, aftermarket pickguar, string ferrules missing(?),my guess is 77 or earlier.

Hard to read the serial number in full, but by gibson serial number decoder site: its a 1975 production.

1977 rippers had the pickup mount changed from 2 screws throught the casing, to 3 small screws outside (2 on each bottom corner, one dead middle at the top of the pickup).

 

[Bunky]

Hard to read the serial number in full, but by gibson serial number decoder site: its a 1975 production.

1977 rippers had the pickup mount changed from 2 screws throught the casing, to 3 small screws outside (2 on each bottom corner, one dead middle at the top of the pickup).

Any guess what something like this might be worth if say the electronics are fine and no issues besides the refin?

 

[ColoRADoKT]

woohoo! NBD. The fore-mentioned ripper with a walnut refin. So happy to have one now!

however I do have two issues that I need help with (as seen in pictures).

first, the open E string is a buzzsaw - not in a good way. It’s all buzz like a heck of a neck problem. But when I fret any fret the buzz goes away. So I thought…hmmm…maybe a nut issue? Then I see the wrap for the string stops below the nut. Looks like they didn’t use the right scale length strings. Would that account for the open E buzz or is it something more significant with the neck?

secondly, I have read people’s disdain for the three point bridge. Is this why? Looks like the bridge is being pulled down toward the body by the strings. Not sure if that’s a problem?

TIA for all of your insights!

 

[spatters]

first, the open E string is a buzzsaw - not in a good way. It’s all buzz like a heck of a neck problem. But when I fret any fret the buzz goes away. So I thought…hmmm…maybe a nut issue? Then I see the wrap for the string stops below the nut. Looks like they didn’t use the right scale length strings. Would that account for the open E buzz or is it something more significant with the neck?

Yes, the too-short string is causing your problem.
Getting an E string that's long enough will almost certainly fix it.

However, as you can see, the other 3 strings are fine.
That's because most basses have a Fender-style 4-in-line headstock. On such basses, the tuner for the E string is closest to the nut, so the E string must have the shortest winding length. The other strings can have longer windings, since the tuners are farther away.

String-through-body basses like the Ripper sometimes need extra long scale strings.
You'll have to measure precisely how long of a string you need, and check the winding length of the strings you're looking at.

 

[ColoRADoKT]

@spatters thank you! I was expecting (and hoping) that would be the answer.

Any idea if that bridge is kosher?

 

[ThaCoast]

Any guess what something like this might be worth if say the electronics are fine and no issues besides the refin?

I couldn't accurately quote but if all still works properly, & given it's a refin (has an ebony board, my thoughts are that it was either a completely black finished bass, or it was a burst. All Maple fretboard rippers were mainly natural finished).

A quick look over reverb. com, & everything in original condition is fetching upwards 2-3k (some even 4k + i guess given their location account for shipping & such). I'd say, if someone's willing to bite this refin ripper, you may be able to go up to 2k (but i'd say in the lower register of it so 1.5-2k). Don't quote me directly, i'm no pro when it comes to valuing instruments of this caliber, or how to account much for "mods/refins/etc" that would devalue the instrument, & by how much. So these numbers are MY arbitury guess at best.

woohoo! NBD. The fore-mentioned ripper with a walnut refin. So happy to have one now!

however I do have two issues that I need help with (as seen in pictures).

first, the open E string is a buzzsaw - not in a good way. It’s all buzz like a heck of a neck problem. But when I fret any fret the buzz goes away. So I thought…hmmm…maybe a nut issue? Then I see the wrap for the string stops below the nut. Looks like they didn’t use the right scale length strings. Would that account for the open E buzz or is it something more significant with the neck?

secondly, I have read people’s disdain for the three point bridge. Is this why? Looks like the bridge is being pulled down toward the body by the strings. Not sure if that’s a problem?

TIA for all of your insights!View attachment 4663071 View attachment 4663070
View attachment 4663072

Use extra long scale strings & the E string will sit firmly within its slot. That'll solve any issues of buzz/rattle.

As for the bridge, there's a way to properly set it up to give it maximum playability without having it bend out of shape.

Here's the talkbass forum/post of which explains how to go about its set up procedure. I've used it countless times (Epiphone thunderbird Goth series, Maya Grabber bass copy, & my Homebuilt Ripper bass tribute). Its good to know, cause most people just chuck these bridges for aftermarkets like Hipshot/babicz & the likes which offer drop in replacements).

Gibson/Epiphone 3 point bridge setup.

Let us know how it goes, i'm sure you'll be able to have the bridge set up in no time & it'll play like butter.

 

[msb]

I generally defend the three point bridge , I’ve got several of them . I always manage to get things exactly where I like them , and then forget about it . I’ve considered drop in replacements , but never actually purchased one . You can use a spacer at the ball end to avoid the problem with the nut .

 

[ColoRADoKT]

@Andii Syckz thank you for that link and info - very informative and helpful!