Gibson Ripper modified wiring for Pos 4.

[Will_White]

Finally getting around to this (thanks for all the advice, btw) and followed 40Hz recommendations and pdf diagram with new Seymour Duncan pick-up rewinds. Sounds terrible! I think because the luthier changed the pots and also changed the resistance range of the pots - from 250 to 500 or so. I am going to try reinstalling the original pots and see what happens. He also changed the resistors so I better check if they are 100nF and 47nF as shown in the diagram. Currently it seems to have little power, and the Tone control (by the jack) makes a hissing sound if turned anywhere up from zero and is rather trebly. Midrange does nothing as before, and Volume is weak at best, maxxed out.

Will get back to you after I rewire the old pots in and double checking the ground wire to bridge, just in case. I wired it to the center of Tone control but should perhaps move it to center of Volume (even though they're connected).

Hopefully not something Seymour Duncan did that is the problem. They also took about 2 months but I assume the tested them before shipping back.

Did you take it back to the same guy?

 

[40Hz]

I hope he didn't bork the switch and now something's shorting out or being flakey. Getting a replacement for one of those switches can be a bear.

IIRC Gibson used a 300k linear for the volume and a pair of 250k audio taper pots for the mid and tone control.

Hopefully the inductor didn't get damaged. Because if that part is ruined it'll affect the entire circuit.

You also have to keep in mind a passive guitar is a resonant circuit - so changing any component has the potential of altering the sound.

When it comes to the LCR design of the midrange, the capacitor and resistor feeding into the inductor coil is what 'tunes' it - so those component values (100nF cap and a 250k pot) shouldn't be changed unless you really know what you're doing.

Luck!

 

[wendells101]

I hope he didn't bork the switch and now something's shorting out or being flakey. Getting a replacement for one of those switches can be a bear.

IIRC Gibson used a 300k linear for the volume and a pair of 250k audio taper pots for the mid and tone control.

Hopefully the inductor didn't get damaged. Because if that part is ruined it'll affect the entire circuit.

You also have to keep in mind a passive guitar is a resonant circuit - so changing any component has the potential of altering the sound.

When it comes to the LCR design of the midrange, the capacitor and resistor feeding into the inductor coil is what 'tunes' it - so those component values (100nF cap and a 250k pot) shouldn't be changed unless you really know what you're doing.

Luck!

Tried bidding on a wiring harness on eBay but missed it. Plan B is to resolder the old pots back in. Used to have control of volume from 0-2, then nothing, then some more from 9-10. Midrange did almost nothing as did tone.

I did not go back to the luthier, Randolin Music of Burlington, as he complained about how much work he did despite the poopy outcome.

 

[wendells101]

Tried bidding on a wiring harness on eBay but missed it. Plan B is to resolder the old pots back in. Used to have control of volume from 0-2, then nothing, then some more from 9-10. Midrange did almost nothing as did tone.

I did not go back to the luthier, Randolin Music of Burlington, as he complained about how much work he did despite the poopy outcome.

Auto correct on the word "poopy". I used a different adjective.

 

[40Hz]

Auto correct on the word "poopy". I used a different adjective.

I figured as much.

I have a couple of wiring diagrams for the two versions Gibson used. If you need them, I can send you the PDFs.

A legitimately competent tech (who understands how rotary switches work - look for someone with experience on PRS guitars) should be able to recreate the circuit - or you could try it yourself if you're comfortable with a soldering iron.

 

[wendells101]

I figured as much.

I have a couple of wiring diagrams for the two versions Gibson used. If you need them, I can send you the PDFs.

A legitimately competent tech (who understands how rotary switches work - look for someone with experience on PRS guitars) should be able to recreate the circuit - or you could try it yourself if you're comfortable with a soldering iron.

Just went to replace the original pots and noticed the ones he installed are all 500k. I think he replaced the capacitors too. Not sure if he used 100nf and 47nf units. Was going to head to Radio Shack and see what they had. Unfortunately, techs are few and far between here in Vermont.

 

[40Hz]

Just went to replace the original pots and noticed the ones he installed are all 500k. I think he replaced the capacitors too. Not sure if he used 100nf and 47nf units. Was going to head to Radio Shack and see what they had. Unfortunately, techs are few and far between here in Vermont.

That'll definitely change the sound big time. You can get "genuine" Gibson 300K pots from places like zZounds or Sweetwater. Not cheap at around $10 each, but so it goes.

When Bill Lawrence designed the Ripper's wiring, it was all part of a carefully thought out circuit that was closely matched to the characteristics of that unusual pickup he made for it. Even the magnets (Indox) he used in them were carefully selected from what was available at the time. Deviating from Bill's master plan seldom works out for a Ripper. I've heard enough "improved" and modded Rippers to know it doesn't lend itself well to techs going off the reservation with its internals.

Luck in your quest to bring yours back to what the master builder intended. If there's anything I can do to help, let me know.

 

[wendells101]

That'll definitely change the sound big time. You can get "genuine" Gibson 300K pots from places like zZounds or Sweetwater. Not cheap at around $10 each, but so it goes.

When Bill Lawrence designed the Ripper's wiring, it was all part of a carefully thought out circuit that was closely matched to the characteristics of that unusual pickup he made for it. Even the magnets (Indox) he used in them were carefully selected from what was available at the time. Deviating from Bill's master plan seldom works out for a Ripper. I've heard enough "improved" and modded Rippers to know it doesn't lend itself well to techs going off the reservation with its internals.

Luck in your quest to bring yours back to what the master builder intended. If there's anything I can do to help, let me know.

Thanks again. Trying zZounds or Sweetwater for different pots and will work them in. More later!

I have other basses but this was my favorite for most things.

 

[wendells101]

Order in for a Gibson 300k and 2x Emerson 250 pots, plus one Emerson 47uf capacitor at Sweetwaters!

 

[wendells101]

Received (from Sweetwaters - good service, btw) and installed new Gibson 300k volume, and Emerson 250k mid and tone (nearest the jack) pots. Installed new Emerson .047nf capacitor and Radio Shack 100nf capacitor. Followed wiring diagram carefully and retraced my steps before closing up. In online photos of the wiring and on mine originally, my mid (lowest pot) had the ground wire attached (jumped all three pot cases) but in the diagram it does not.

Pick-ups (rewound by Seymour Duncan) read 7.49 ohm and 7.1 ohm.

Basically I have no loudness and the sound is quite tinny all the way through. The mid-sweep does next to nothing (maybe actually nothing) and the tone control now has some range, bassier from 0-2.

Any ideas why I have no volume? My amp is turned to 5-6 to get same volume as my Jazz gets at 1-2 and lots of hiss.

This is sad as this was a really nice instrument before losing the pick-up and having the luthier "fix" it. My fav out of the collection of Jazz, P-bass, Stingray, and G&L.

 

[ofajen]

Received (from Sweetwaters - good service, btw) and installed new Gibson 300k volume, and Emerson 250k mid and tone (nearest the jack) pots. Installed new Emerson .047nf capacitor and Radio Shack 100nf capacitor. Followed wiring diagram carefully and retraced my steps before closing up. In online photos of the wiring and on mine originally, my mid (lowest pot) had the ground wire attached (jumped all three pot cases) but in the diagram it does not.

Pick-ups (rewound by Seymour Duncan) read 7.49 ohm and 7.1 ohm.

Basically I have no loudness and the sound is quite tinny all the way through. The mid-sweep does next to nothing (maybe actually nothing) and the tone control now has some range, bassier from 0-2.

Any ideas why I have no volume? My amp is turned to 5-6 to get same volume as my Jazz gets at 1-2 and lots of hiss.

This is sad as this was a really nice instrument before losing the pick-up and having the luthier "fix" it. My fav out of the collection of Jazz, P-bass, Stingray, and G&L.

Sounds like perhaps the mid cut is malfunctioning and operating in full cut mode (as if all the way down) regardless of setting? Wiring error could cause this, or a defective pot. If you disconnect the mid cut from ground, it should eliminate its effect, and give a stronger, full range sound. That may be worth a try.

Otto

 

[bassman_al]

Would a 6-position, 4-pole rotary switch work? Anyone have a diagram for me? I can't read a schematic, but a diagram would be most helpful. Thanks!

 

[cellkirk74]

How did this turn out? I am just curious since I have a 74 Ripper with a changed switch that at least sounds good and strong in 2 positions, but lacks a lot of volume in the settiungs that involve both pickups. Series in phase is far louder than the rest, which might even be correct. I have an additional harnish original here that was wa going to install and eventually do the neck only mod.

 

[Jason Barkmeier]

I am trying to roughly restore to playing condition a 73 Ripper. It has been HEAVILY modified by some past abuser. The body was shaved. I do not see this Drosselspule/Inductor anywhere under the hood. Wiring looks roughly nothing like what the above noted diagrams show. It seems simple enough to put back to the correct layout but where can I get Drosselspule 70-442? The 100nF and 47nF (I assume Ceramic Disk Capacitors?). Any advise besides throw it away is appreciated.

 

[ofajen]

It may be hard to find the 70-442 part. One easy option to restore a midrange cut is to order the bass version of the Q-filter component from Wilde Pickups:

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I should say that this unit was designed by Bill Lawrence, designer of the Ripper electronics, and is still made in the shop now run by his widow, Becky Lawrence.

This unit would replace both inductor and cap connecting the midrange control wiper to ground in the following diagram:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

I hope that helps! Good luck in healing your bass!

Otto