Gigging Amp Crossroads

[DaveParker39]

This is keeping me up at night, so here's my problem.

So, I have an amp I like pretty well.
It's a Hartke LX5500. Excellent low end. Could use a little more highs, which I imagine could be remedied with a tweeter. Sounds very good at gigs, apart from missing a bit of highs.
I am anxious about part failure with how cheap the amp is and difficult to open up for service (the tube, mainly).

I have an UNGODLY heavy cheap cab. So at the very least, I need a new cab.

So I am debating a few things

-Keep the LX5500, new light cab with tweeter, maybe invest in a backup head.

-Light combo (Rumble 800 Analog)- I tried this, and I like it. I didn't have my compressor so I didn't have a great idea, but my brothers Rumble 40 sounded great and has the same preamp. 29lb, 800 watt, 2x10.

-Rumble 800 HD with the matching cab- this would allow me to continue using the Hartke. The cab is heavier than the amp, but still only 39lb.

-Something altogether different- I don't have boogie money, but there is a lot of nice class D stuff out there.

I would love to come out of the whole thing under $1k. The lighter the better. I would also love a vertical cab configuration (2x10) particularly if it's a half stack.

Tone: I need to have powerful low end, good clean sounds, nice drive on tap is a big plus. Don't need an onboard compressor. My preference would be solid state class D, unless the amp has an easy to get-at tube. I tried the GB Streamliner and it was a but dark for me.

There is another (perhaps irrational) piece of me that is wrestling with gigging a higher end bass (US Spector) with more "affordable" backline, but that's a me problem. Anyone else do that?

thoughts????? I know that was a bit disorganized

 

[Dave W]

You give basically no information about the cab. I'd expect that to be the weakest link here. Replacing it may give you everything you're looking for, whereas replacing the Hartke may not give you anything different when playing through that same cab.

Why are you worried about part failure? Why would you expect your level of worry to change with a different amp?

Players on this site blow tube issues way out of proportion. I would not expect to have a preamp tube fail, and if it did they're super easy and cheap to replace.

 

[rodl2005]

The Rumble 800c and extra matching cab would I think, do most any gig

 

[DaveParker39]

You give basically no information about the cab. I'd expect that to be the weakest link here. Replacing it may give you everything you're looking for, whereas replacing the Hartke may not give you anything different when playing through that same cab.

Why are you worried about part failure? Why would you expect your level of worry to change with a different amp?

Players on this site blow tube issues way out of proportion. I would not expect to have a preamp tube fail, and if it did they're super easy and cheap to replace.

the current cab is a 52 lb peavey 2x10 with no tweeter.

it's not a tube dying I am afraid of. I have changed hundreds of tubes. Hartke will give you no information on how to properly disassemble the amp. They consider a tube change something you need to go to a repair center for, which is frustrating. An amp should be built so that a tube can be changed without sending it in for service.

I agree the cab is the weakest link. A new cab could solve my weight issue.

 

[4StringDave]

It does sound like the cab is the problem and I'd change that first. If you do buy another head then the Hartke will be a very good backup.

 

[Lostgallifreyan]

If you're willing to go for class D output, you're not after output transformer saturation for tone purposes, so the best way to break down a complex problem into manageable parts is to separate class D power stage from valve preamp. The odds of solving this rise dramatically if you do that. Also, you'll probably always have some use for an amp like that. Not limited to bass.

I've been suggesting a class D power amp at times, people usually ignore me. Don't do that. Consider it carefully, it might be your best shot. IMG Stageline STA-400D. 270W RMS to each of two channels at 4 ohms, 180W for 8 ohms. Hypex modules, Neutrik Speakon output connections, Neutrik XLR and jack inputs. Extremely low noise, both electronically and physically. I use one channel to drive a 4x10 ABM cab, the other to drive a 1x15 ABM cab, both Ashdown. The easy balance had by turning the volume controls on the amps is very useful for getting balance of deep bass and highs at a moment's notice.

Getting that power amp, or something very like it, will get you past the 500W many people claim to need as a minimum for gigs, and if you're using 4x10's it will be a blast! You'll also get lots of choices of cabs, and especially preamps. Start by looking for anything that is designed to emulate the tone of what you have now.

It will never be as convenient as a combo, but it will also never keep you up at nights. Unless you can't stop playing because of how good it can be.

 

[DaveParker39]

If you're willing to go for class D output, you're not after output transformer saturation for tone purposes, so the best way to break down a complex problem into manageable parts is to separate class D power stage from valve preamp. The odds of solving this rise dramatically if you do that. Also, you'll probably always have some use for an amp like that. Not limited to bass.

I've been suggesting a class D power amp at times, people usually ignore me. Don't do that. Consider it carefully, it might be your best shot. IMG Stageline STA-400D. 270W RMS to each of two channels at 4 ohms, 180W for 8 ohms. Hypex modules, Neutrik Speakon output connections, Neutrik XLR and jack inputs. Extremely low noise, both electronically and physically. I use one channel to drive a 4x10 ABM cab, the other to drive a 1x15 ABM cab, both Ashdown. The easy balance had by turning the volume controls on the amps is very useful for getting balance of deep bass and highs at a moment's notice.

Getting that power amp, or something very like it, will get you past the 500W many people claim to need as a minimum for gigs, and if you're using 4x10's it will be a blast! You'll also get lots of choices of cabs, and especially preamps. Start by looking for anything that is designed to emulate the tone of what you have now.

It will never be as convenient as a combo, but it will also never keep you up at nights. Unless you can't stop playing because of how good it can be.

That's an interesting idea. Hard to "try before you buy" but there are plenty of good preamps.

 

[jthisdell]

Put your money in as good a cab as you can find. The higher end offereings Bergantino, Barefaced, Genzler, etc. are definitely worth it IMHO.

 

[JeezyMcNuggles]

This is keeping me up at night, so here's my problem.

So, I have an amp I like pretty well.
It's a Hartke LX5500. Excellent low end. Could use a little more highs, which I imagine could be remedied with a tweeter. Sounds very good at gigs, apart from missing a bit of highs.
I am anxious about part failure with how cheap the amp is and difficult to open up for service (the tube, mainly).

I have an UNGODLY heavy cheap cab. So at the very least, I need a new cab.

So I am debating a few things

-Keep the LX5500, new light cab with tweeter, maybe invest in a backup head.

-Light combo (Rumble 800 Analog)- I tried this, and I like it. I didn't have my compressor so I didn't have a great idea, but my brothers Rumble 40 sounded great and has the same preamp. 29lb, 800 watt, 2x10.

-Rumble 800 HD with the matching cab- this would allow me to continue using the Hartke. The cab is heavier than the amp, but still only 39lb.

-Something altogether different- I don't have boogie money, but there is a lot of nice class D stuff out there.

I would love to come out of the whole thing under $1k. The lighter the better. I would also love a vertical cab configuration (2x10) particularly if it's a half stack.

Tone: I need to have powerful low end, good clean sounds, nice drive on tap is a big plus. Don't need an onboard compressor. My preference would be solid state class D, unless the amp has an easy to get-at tube. I tried the GB Streamliner and it was a but dark for me.

There is another (perhaps irrational) piece of me that is wrestling with gigging a higher end bass (US Spector) with more "affordable" backline, but that's a me problem. Anyone else do that?

thoughts????? I know that was a bit disorganized

A "half stack" for guitar is one 412

A "half stack" for bass is one 810



Now, you aren't ever going to get a lot of Iow end out of anything that doesn't have enough speaker to throw it. Meaning, if you are looking to travel light, you need to rely on the PA for your sound. Not your rig.

You have a good amplifier. I would invest in the cabinet. You say you have a grand to spend? You can get two fender Rumble cabs with that. They're cheap, they're light, they look nice, they sound nice.

 

[Headless horse]

You give basically no information about the cab. I'd expect that to be the weakest link here. Replacing it may give you everything you're looking for, whereas replacing the Hartke may not give you anything different when playing through that same cab.

Why are you worried about part failure? Why would you expect your level of worry to change with a different amp?

Players on this site blow tube issues way out of proportion. I would not expect to have a preamp tube fail, and if it did they're super easy and cheap to replace.

Totally agree with this.

 

[bigdaddybass12]

If you are over 50 consider weight first. You mentioned a 2x10 cab. I play a Hartke HD210 cab that has good lows and nice punch. Lightweight. It covers all my small gigs without any FOH. I want a 2nd one for more sound but I have not needed it.

 

[waveman]

I could put a whole rig together for under $1k for what you are trying to accomplish. To start out cheap, get another 210 cab with a tweeter and put it on top of the Peavey for vertical 2x10. Or, look for good used set of 2x10's that might be higher quality and less weight. There are plenty of options for that. If you still are wanting for sound, you can definitely try a different head. If you like the sound and question the build of the head, get a cheap backup class D. There a quite a few good choices there. I will say in my experience, the Rumbles are bass heavy.

Concerning the tube in the amp, don't sweat it. The preamp tube will most likely last as long as any other electronic component, but I am sure it can be replaced without too much work. You just have to tear into the case and see what carefully needs to be done, and it may be tricky, IDK because I don't have one

 

[Lostgallifreyan]

That's an interesting idea. Hard to "try before you buy" but there are plenty of good preamps.

That's the one weak link in the chain, not being able to try first.. On the other hand, a clean class D power amp is almost as good as a wad of cash to anyone who needs audio gear as part of their life. It's hard to imagine such a thing not getting used, unless it's a backup for one that is in use.

As you say, preamps are plentiful. No shortage of suggestions for those on TB. I'll leave that to others because they know more than I do about them.

I thought about what you said about weight.. I didn't post then because the only thing I can say is very subjective, but maybe it's better than nothing.. I was faced with choosing the ABM 2x10 or the ABM 4x10. The 4x10 looked like overkill. What kept ME up at night the day before I committed to a choice, was the certainty that the 2x10 wasn't a lot smaller or lighter than the 4x10, combined with the fact that if I did not go the whole hog, I'd regret it. The next day, it was a 'Ghost Dog' decision, done within seven breaths. I went for the 4x10 and I do not regret it at all.

I find the best cure for GAS is to get it right so getting more stuff isn't a habit. I'll tweak a gadget obsessively till it's right, but so long as it's capable in the first place, at least it isn't costing me more money. Splitting preamp from power amp was critical for me because of the versatility, the easy choices that result.

EDIT: I'm 56, with a dodgy vertebra. If I need the cab moved, I know someone who will help me. That works because I can help them move stuff they want shifting.

 

[Bassquest]

Get a Rumble 210 cab and go to sleep.

 

[MTN.bass72]

This is keeping me up at night, so here's my problem.

So, I have an amp I like pretty well.
It's a Hartke LX5500. Excellent low end. Could use a little more highs, which I imagine could be remedied with a tweeter. Sounds very good at gigs, apart from missing a bit of highs.
I am anxious about part failure with how cheap the amp is and difficult to open up for service (the tube, mainly).

I have an UNGODLY heavy cheap cab. So at the very least, I need a new cab.

So I am debating a few things

-Keep the LX5500, new light cab with tweeter, maybe invest in a backup head.

-Light combo (Rumble 800 Analog)- I tried this, and I like it. I didn't have my compressor so I didn't have a great idea, but my brothers Rumble 40 sounded great and has the same preamp. 29lb, 800 watt, 2x10.

-Rumble 800 HD with the matching cab- this would allow me to continue using the Hartke. The cab is heavier than the amp, but still only 39lb.

-Something altogether different- I don't have boogie money, but there is a lot of nice class D stuff out there.

I would love to come out of the whole thing under $1k. The lighter the better. I would also love a vertical cab configuration (2x10) particularly if it's a half stack.

Tone: I need to have powerful low end, good clean sounds, nice drive on tap is a big plus. Don't need an onboard compressor. My preference would be solid state class D, unless the amp has an easy to get-at tube. I tried the GB Streamliner and it was a but dark for me.

There is another (perhaps irrational) piece of me that is wrestling with gigging a higher end bass (US Spector) with more "affordable" backline, but that's a me problem. Anyone else do that?

thoughts????? I know that was a bit disorganized

I'm at a l'm unfortunate crossroads myself.
I'm having to sell my rig, and a couple of basses,due to vehicle maintenance and having to feed my kid coming first.

I have a Greenboy Audio Fearless F112, which will demolish any 210 you'd consider and a Mesa Subway D800... hit me up if you're interested and I'll send you some pics too.

 

[2thAche]

Sounds like you'd like a GK fusion (tube pre-amp). Punchy with all the bottom you'd want, lots of clarity, tube warmth. You'd have to find used, and best to try it first. Have you tried a 1x12 with a horn? Your whole setup could be under 30lbs.

 

[Kael]

Amp isn't fancy but it is more than serviceable. Get a good cab. Worst case scenario, you now have a good cab and can replace the head if needed.

I've seen 2 preamp tubes die in the last 30 years of gigging. Non-issue. I'd just look for a video that explains how to open the case and replace the tube when I needed it.

 

[mike buzzetti]

the 2x10 cabs now seem to be soooo good that they cover most anything I play at , If I need more the PA is your friend , dump the Peavey get a good high SPL/Watt 2x10 and cruise. ( keep the Peavey its a great door stop ! lmfao ).

 

[pjbassist]

I tried the GB Streamliner

Great amp, but very specific sound profile that doesn't seem to match up with your preferences. I am biased, because its all I use, but I would recommend a Genz Benz Shuttle 9.0. All the GB greatness without the gooey tube sound of the Streamliner.

Or...go to Jeff Genzler's new design and get a Genzler Magellan 800. My 2 cents.

 

[mikewalker]

I changed the tube in my Hartke TX-600 (very similar package) just to test an old 12ax7 tube I found in a box. If memory serves, the whole process took about five minutes, and wasn't hard to figure out how to get at the preamp tube.
The old tube sounded just like the factory tube, so I just left it in there (and put the original in the box as a spare). It probably will not need to be changed out in my lifetime, I don't think I have needed to replace any 12ax7 in the last 40 years...