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Going to buy an SVT3. Which One?

Ok - crash course to cover the differences of the Ampeg SVT 3 Pro and the Ampeg SVT III. (They're entirely two different amps -- not versions). Both amps have a different preamp and power plant.

The Ampeg SVT 3 Pro can be found in three distinct design trims. The early white letter script can be confused for the SVT III. (Again - different amp)

Early SVT 3 Pro:
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Blue Script SVT 3 Pro (Favorite):
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Modern and current model SVT 3 Pro:
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Ampeg SVT III (Looks similar to an early SVT 3 Pro). The roman numerals without the "pro" naming convention is a distinguishing factor:
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Ok - With the visuals covered - What are the big differences? Concerning the SVT 3 Pro, it comes down to aesthetics, and for some, where it's made (USA vs China for late renditions). They have a great sound and can get snarky when pushed. It's a solid industry-standard amp.

SVT III is a different beast. It's highly coveted because it shares the same preamp as the SVT-II and by extension the SVT-IIP preamp. These amps sold for pennies until people wised up and started buying them. You used to be able to buy these for $100 - $300 on the used market. Prices have climbed in the $500 - $800 range. Price-wise they have capped because there are other great amps in Ampeg lineup in that stratosphere (SVT-CL, V4, 4 Pro, etc.)

*DISCLAIMER* - The photos of the amps in this post are not mine. However, I would be happy to show photos of mine for reference.
 
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I gigged a III-Pro with the blue and orange lettering for several years. It sounded great through the Ampeg 810 I had, but was pretty weak sounding through a band mates 410HLF. Mind you this was early in my musical journey so maybe that was user error haha.
 
I really like my SVT-3Pro, bought new in 2002, made in U.S.A.

I don't have personal experience with any other eras of this amp, but in general I've read here that there were some quality issues with some of the Ampegs made in China after that.

Crank up the Gain knob until you find "too much", then back off just a little; the Peak light will be lit a lot. Have a competent tech check the bias of the output transistors, they tended to be biased too cold from the factory. When you're buying a speaker, keep in mind it needs a 4 ohm load to put out its full 450W.
 
I gigged a III-Pro with the blue and orange lettering for several years. It sounded great through the Ampeg 810 I had, but was pretty weak sounding through a band mates 410HLF. Mind you this was early in my musical journey so maybe that was user error haha.

IMHO - The 410HLF is the worst cab to pair with a 3 Pro. I wish promotional advertisements and backlines would quit pairing these two (often stocked) pieces of gear. To my ears, the 410HLF needs 700 - 1000 watts to wake up.

However, the 3 Pro sounds fantastic through the 410he or even two 115he cabs. Absolutely punches in the mids. I would've love to hear one through the rarely seen 215he.
 
I have an SVT-3 PRO. It is a 2019 model I believe. I bought it new.

I'm very happy with mine. In the past, I have used a pre-amp and compressor with my passive J and P. With the SVT3, I don't find it necessary. The preamp on it is great on it's own. I find that it has plenty of power pushing a 4x10 cab, more than I need for bars and occasional outdoor festivals. If you push it hard, it will breakup a little in a musical and pleasing way. Don't expect it to sound like an all tube amplifier, like an SVT CL or VB4. This amp has it's own voicing and it is made for cleaner tones. If I want to dirty up my tone I use a pedal.

Mine is a keeper. It will probably my main gigging amp for the next decade.
 
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IMHO - The 410HLF is the worst cab to pair with a 3 Pro. I wish promotional advertisements and backlines would quit pairing these two (often stocked) pieces of gear. To my ears, the 410HLF needs 700 - 1000 watts to wake up.

However, the 3 Pro sounds fantastic through the 410he or even two 115he cabs. Absolutely punches in the mids. I would've love to hear one through the rarely seen 215he.
believe it or not different HLF cabs sound different..I am playing a SVT pro 4 through two 4x10 HLF's and using an additional tech 21 RPM preamp..the ampeg does have 3 tubes in it's preamp section.........my rig will rock anybodies world.
 
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believe it or not different HLF cabs sound different..I am playing a SVT pro 4 through two 4x10 HLF's and using an additional tech 21 RPM preamp..the ampeg does have 3 tubes in it's preamp section.........my rig will rock anybodies world.

I have an HLF cab and I really like it. I think it is just a matter of taste. Some folks don't like them, some do.
 
IMHO - The 410HLF is the worst cab to pair with a 3 Pro. I wish promotional advertisements and backlines would quit pairing these two (often stocked) pieces of gear. To my ears, the 410HLF needs 700 - 1000 watts to wake up.

However, the 3 Pro sounds fantastic through the 410he or even two 115he cabs. Absolutely punches in the mids. I would've love to hear one through the rarely seen 215he.
There's a 215he for sale right now. I thought about it. But, I went with a fridge.
 
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believe it or not different HLF cabs sound different..I am playing a SVT pro 4 through two 4x10 HLF's and using an additional tech 21 RPM preamp..the ampeg does have 3 tubes in it's preamp section.........my rig will rock anybodies world.

No doubt!

I don't have any definite dislikes about the HLF but, I've found them to be cabs that need a powerful amp to drive. The 4 Pro is 2ohm capable bridged and will deliver the goods when needed. To my ears, the 3 Pro performs better with a cab that is matched in it's output range.
 
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No doubt!

I don't have any definite dislikes about the HLF but, I've found them to be cabs that need a powerful amp to drive. The 4 Pro is 2ohm capable bridged and will deliver the goods when needed. To my ears, the 3 Pro performs better with a cab that is matched in it's output range.
To me, the 3 sounds much better than the 4. Much more like an SVT than any of them...well, besides the 2.
 
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To me, the 3 sounds much better than the 4. Much more like an SVT than any of them...well, besides the 2.

I could see that. In my eyes the 4 Pro is a swiss army knife tour grade amp. There's lot's of in's and out's for dual effect loops, paired preamps, dual XLR's, and the bit. The stock preamp is very warm and clean and won't get gritty like other Pro series amps. I think the design concept was to allow tour grade power that could be tailored to players liking by blending in effects.
 
I could see that. In my eyes the 4 Pro is a swiss army knife tour grade amp. There's lot's of in's and out's for dual effect loops, paired preamps, dual XLR's, and the bit. The stock preamp is very warm and clean and won't get gritty like other Pro series amps. I think the design concept was to allow tour grade power that could be tailored to players liking by blending in effects.
For sure. And don't get me wrong, id love to have a 4. Its awesome. My buddy has one. But, id only buy the 4 if I was looking to bi-amp again. And, that was far too much effort for far too little gain. And, the 3 sounds better. But, I have a V-4b, and a PF800. I dont need anything else.
 
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I have a 2007 svt3 pro and have used it heavily for the last 7 years. Had to replace the power switch once, cost was under 10 bucks. I run it through the 410hlf cab, many will say that cab is too muddy ect. ect. I say they don't know how to EQ correctly. Fantastic amp/cab combo
 
I am officially settled on picking up an SVT3. I have determined that it has the iconic sound I crave, it's plenty of power for me. I am not a professional bassist (nor even close as I am a guitarist and that's where my heart is) it will stay in my shop/studio not likely to be moved. I will be picking up an Ampeg 4x10 cab after I have the head.

I have seen several different versions of the SVT3 and don't know which route to take. I only buy used. Reverb is fine, ebay is fine, local (Tampa Bay, FL) would be a bonus. I don't want to go past the $650 mark unless there is something amazing about it. And I do NOT have the cash at this moment I just want to know what specific ones to look for.

Are there any things on some models that are red flags?

As far as condition, signs of use are not a problem, but I obviously don't want one that has been beaten to heck.

Ladies and gentlemen of talk bass, whatcha think?

I would get the black faceplate made in the USA series SVT3 Pro with 1/4" and Neutrik Speakon output jacks. I see them all the time for $500 w/rack case ... often as low as $400. There was one in my local Craigslist a few months ago for $200 w/SKB rack case. I was sooo tempted, but I already have one (along with a whole lotta other Ampeg equipment) and I'm totally locked down with my wife until the COVID-19 global pandemic is over with so buying it would've been a bit dangerous. They are battleaxe workhorse amps. Mine has served me very well for many years.
 
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i LOVE this thread. i played a 2007 SVT 3 pro through an svt 8x10 for years. i was playing a 2002 warwick corvette into a sansamp and i had zero complaints about my sound.

i was playing an SVT 7 pro into an SVT 410hln, and it was just the muddiest, wooffiest tone. i’ve never hated a cab more. i got my hands on an SVT215he and was way stoked on it. if anyone is interested, i would love to sell that cab. unfortunately, I live in LA and it still lives in new york.

i will say that i like the SVT 7 pro. i maaaaaybe don’t think it gets the same growl that the 3 got, but it still sounds great and will ABSOLUTELY keep up with two death metal guitarists. weighing 15lbs is a huge bonus, too. i can’t say i would go back to a 3 after the 7.
 
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No doubt!

I don't have any definite dislikes about the HLF but, I've found them to be cabs that need a powerful amp to drive. The 4 Pro is 2ohm capable bridged and will deliver the goods when needed. To my ears, the 3 Pro performs better with a cab that is matched in it's output range.
the pro 4 bridges at 4 ohms only..you can run 2 ohm speakers on each individual channel.................Technical Specifications Output Power Rating Mono-Bridged: 1600 Watts RMS @ 4 Ω (1200 Watts continuous), 3% THD Mono-Bridged: 1200 Watts RMS @ 8 Ω (900 Watts continuous), 3% THD 2 x 900 Watts RMS @ 2 Ω (600 Watts continuous), 3% THD 2 x 625 Watts RMS @ 4 Ω (490 Watts continuous), 3% THD 2 x 350 Watts RMS @ 8 Ω (300 Watts continuous), 3% THD ...............this is directly from the manual.............so....on each of two independent channels...you can run either 2..4..or 8 ohm speakers...but you can only use one 4 ohm speaker in the bridged mode according to the manual..the amp will not do 2 ohms "bridged".. but it will let you run 2 ohm cabs on the individual channels at the same time..I have run multiple cabs in a variety of configurations on mine.
 
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