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I came across the K&K pure bass pickup/transducer that seems to get rave reviews from ABG users... Anyone tried one of these with a GT MB by chance (or any ubass etc)? Sounds interesting as they are supposedly more natural sounding than under-saddle pickups. Not sure if I could even get the K&K mounted properly in the MB, or if it would be compatible with the stock preamp...
I wouldn't try wiring it to your existing preamp. I am not that impressed with the GT preamp sound anyways. I would undo the nut on the existing jack. pull it back, wrap it in foam so it doesn't rattle and install the K&K and use a good quality external preamp DI like the tonebone pz which is engineered for peizo pick ups. Gives you better EQ, a better preamp and a DI for going to a board or recording console.
No more worrying if your battery is going to die mid song too. Win win
Just a thought
No more worrying if your battery is going to die mid song too. Win win
Just a thought
Yes the stock preamp is not great. I find it works ok if you ignore the markings on treble/bass sliders and just think of them both as boosts, but no cut (esp the treble slider).
External preamp would perform much better, but I have been playing this with a portable battery amp setup so I don't want to complicate it with any extra gear... I think I'm going to pass on the idea but just curious if anyone else has tried.
A question on the thundergut strings - can they be removed/reinstalled without issue (just thinking of the dents over the saddle)?
I might fine-tune the setup/action and would have to remove the saddle to do this. It plays good, but currently the neck relief is dead flat, with saddle high enough to make it play decently. I'm thinking if I raise the strings by adding some neck relief, and lower the saddle to bring the strings back down, it should play even better. Or maybe the GT MB isn't designed to be set up like a regular bass or guitar, and dead flat neck relief is more ideal?
I might fine-tune the setup/action and would have to remove the saddle to do this. It plays good, but currently the neck relief is dead flat, with saddle high enough to make it play decently. I'm thinking if I raise the strings by adding some neck relief, and lower the saddle to bring the strings back down, it should play even better. Or maybe the GT MB isn't designed to be set up like a regular bass or guitar, and dead flat neck relief is more ideal?
I recently picked up a 25" FL. My band's next record has a few songs requiring an acoustic bass, and I had a lot of reward points to cash in. Also, the mic'd + direct signal sound in this video completely sold me:
I'm enjoying it so far, especially when plucking up by the neck and getting some nice rattle of the strings hitting the board - very upright bass-like. I'm still on the stock strings, and like others the stickiness is a problem. I can slide only on the G string. However, I'm not looking to change the strings just yet. I had to cut off the A and D strings when I ran out of wraps, and it was a complete PITA getting them back on. The A string especially wouldn't stay in the post hole. (In fact, it popped out after finally getting it to stay, but it seems stable for now.) I don't feel like repeating the process for awhile. I'm going to find some talc and see if that helps for now.
I'm enjoying it so far, especially when plucking up by the neck and getting some nice rattle of the strings hitting the board - very upright bass-like. I'm still on the stock strings, and like others the stickiness is a problem. I can slide only on the G string. However, I'm not looking to change the strings just yet. I had to cut off the A and D strings when I ran out of wraps, and it was a complete PITA getting them back on. The A string especially wouldn't stay in the post hole. (In fact, it popped out after finally getting it to stay, but it seems stable for now.) I don't feel like repeating the process for awhile. I'm going to find some talc and see if that helps for now.
I also prefer Road Toad Pahoehoe, but they have the same overwrap problem and are the same PITA to install, but I do a twist wrap on the post, not in the hole. I found that talc is a ridiculous remedy, gets all over everything and doesn't last more than a song or two. I read that Aquila recommends wiping the Thundergut strings with Windex on a cloth, DON'T spray the strings. I haven't tried that yet.
The original design strings drove me crazy installing properly.
I'm Pahoehoe free these days.
For me, it was Aquilas all the way.
I'm Pahoehoe free these days.
For me, it was Aquilas all the way.
I adjusted to the Thunderguts - didn’t take too long. It was worth it for the sound - love it. But mine is a fretless, so “bumps” are not an issue. I expect they might be with frets.The original design strings drove me crazy installing properly.
I'm Pahoehoe free these days.
I went to olive oil on the strings instead of talc. I keep a small baggie with a paper towel in it with about a tablespoon of oil. I wipe down the strings (like you would do with fast fret) and make sure I get some on my fingers in the process. Any excess oil just enhances the finish. I tend to refresh about every 4 songs or so. Of course, there is always the beside-the-nose face oil in a pinch.
I also had to cut my A string and it wouldn't stay attached. Simply tied a knot in the end and slipped the string through tuning peg slot. Problem solved. Not elegant, but works.
I also had to cut my A string and it wouldn't stay attached. Simply tied a knot in the end and slipped the string through tuning peg slot. Problem solved. Not elegant, but works.
I just tried using Windex on my Thundergut strings as Aquila suggested, did not work at all. I've never had to continuously coat my strings with anything, just wiped them down when I finish a gig or long rehearsal. If having to do that is necessary, I think that means it has the wrong materials. I hate to knock Mimmo and his efforts, and I know he keeps trying to fix the problem, he's a good guy, but since the Road Toad Pahoehoe always stay smooth, I'll use those over the Thunderguts. I have two bass ukes with Thunderguts that I don't play often, so I live with the stickiness on those (and the Thunderguts look good on them).
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I’ve come full (small) circle in the Uke / Micro bass string world. I started with a U bass and Pahoehoe strings, then went to Aquila Thunderstickies, & then I sold out and went to a 23” GT Micro that started out with Thunderstickies, then I moved to Silverbacks, but I’m doing a lot more bluegrass / acoustic stuff during the pandamn-it, so I wanted that warm blooming thud of the rubber strings, so I bought a set of Pahoehoes.
Once I had them on and stretched out, I realize I have the wrong scale strings. I have the UBass scale length and I need the 22.5 - 24” length. Then I also find there’s a fairly wide variety of string gauges / diameters available. I just didn’t do enough research first, but I’m really enjoying the tone.
So my question here is, what is the best balanced string gauges for the 23” GT bass? I currently feel like I have too large an “E” string and too small a “G”, but that’s somewhat to be expected until I get used to Pahoehoes again. The longer scale set shows a smaller “G” diameter than what I have, and I’m afraid that will feel strange to me. Anyone have any experience with trying to get a somewhat balanced set of the 23” scale Pahoehoes?
Once I had them on and stretched out, I realize I have the wrong scale strings. I have the UBass scale length and I need the 22.5 - 24” length. Then I also find there’s a fairly wide variety of string gauges / diameters available. I just didn’t do enough research first, but I’m really enjoying the tone.
So my question here is, what is the best balanced string gauges for the 23” GT bass? I currently feel like I have too large an “E” string and too small a “G”, but that’s somewhat to be expected until I get used to Pahoehoes again. The longer scale set shows a smaller “G” diameter than what I have, and I’m afraid that will feel strange to me. Anyone have any experience with trying to get a somewhat balanced set of the 23” scale Pahoehoes?
My first bass over six years ago was a Gold Tone GT MicroBass 23" that came with Thunderguts, which I very quickly changed to Pahoehoe Black Std 22.5" to 24" version. It was an effort to put them on, and it took a few weeks for them to stretch to the point where I had to trim them, but since then they've been fine.
I guess I might not be as picky as you, I go between different gauge strings on my various basses and don't have a problem doing so. Recently the pickup volume went out of balance and I have to do my cut apart fix to the saddle when I'm willing to mess with the strings again.
I don’t have any problems switching gauges, I’m just not too happy with what I currently have, so I’m looking to see who may have already been down the same path and has found a better balanced string set.
The strings I have didn’t come with the gauge / diameter for each string on the label. They just say “Standard” tension. The stretched size is;
E - 0.172”
A - 0.134”
D - 0.096”
G - 0.072
From info on the bassuke web site they probably started as;
0.200”
0.187”
0.156”
0.125”
The G string I have already feels too small, so I don’t expect I would like the 0.118” that comes with the longer scale set.
I’ll email the bassuke site and see what they say will work. I expect there are several here on TB that know the answer to that even better than the string seller.....
The strings I have didn’t come with the gauge / diameter for each string on the label. They just say “Standard” tension. The stretched size is;
E - 0.172”
A - 0.134”
D - 0.096”
G - 0.072
From info on the bassuke web site they probably started as;
0.200”
0.187”
0.156”
0.125”
The G string I have already feels too small, so I don’t expect I would like the 0.118” that comes with the longer scale set.
I’ll email the bassuke site and see what they say will work. I expect there are several here on TB that know the answer to that even better than the string seller.....
When i bought my current gt it was used and had the silverbacks. Action was too high and it seems like i removed a shim under the bridge. With synthetics back on again, i am getting fret buzz that i cannot adjust out with truss rod. I have to play near bridge. I don't know what i did with the shim and it didn't affect the pahoehoe strings as much. Any one know the thickness or if their bridge had a shim?
