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Gotoh 201 issues?

I've recently ordered a Gotoh 201 bridge from another TB'er, and while going through a thread about the 201's, I saw two separate posts about having to do major adjustments (neck shimming, truss rod cranking) for the action to get right again. Anybody else have this problem? To clarify, I'll be installing this bridge on a 96 MIM Jazz.
 
I've recently ordered a Gotoh 201 bridge from another TB'er, and while going through a thread about the 201's, I saw two separate posts about having to do major adjustments (neck shimming, truss rod cranking) for the action to get right again. Anybody else have this problem? To clarify, I'll be installing this bridge on a 96 MIM Jazz.

Truss rod cranking - no....shimming - possibly if dictated by limitations in string height adjustment.

Riis
 
The Gotoh bridges come with 12mm saddles and if that is what you already have on your current bridge, no problems, but alot of bridges (like mine) have 8mm saddles. No probs either really, just swap saddles to lower the action back to where you like it and leave the neck shimming and truss rod cranking for someone else.
 
Cool, I'm assuming the J and P had the same bridges then.

Yes and No. 19mm or .75 inches between strings (centre to centre) will yield a satisfactory spacing on a 2004 MIM P bass, but it will leave the string spacing short of centered on a 2001 MIM J Bass.

Thus a Gotoh 201 will be a good match for a P bass of the era it will be less than optimum for a Jass from the same era.

Here's where it can get complicated. Some J Basses use the same width of pickup in both the bridge and neck positions. Some are wider at the bridge. What's right for your bass depends on the precise measurements of the nut, pickups and bridge.

Note that I am referring to OPTIMUM measurements here - whether you or your audience can hear the difference is an entirely different matter. But in a theoretical sense there is an optimum setting.

So if you are the kind of person who can figure out how to do a compound mitre for a crown molding in your living room, it will be a breeze figuring out the geometry of all of this. If not you might reconsider your actions.
 
Quick update-the Gotoh came in the mail yesterday, and I was tuning up and amping it within a half hour. No shimming, not even a truss rod adjustment. Action's just fine, and the bridge sounds great. Still gotta make some minor adjustments to the saddle positions, but it was super user friendly and it sounds (and feels) terrific.
 
Quick update-the Gotoh came in the mail yesterday, and I was tuning up and amping it within a half hour. No shimming, not even a truss rod adjustment. Action's just fine, and the bridge sounds great. Still gotta make some minor adjustments to the saddle positions, but it was super user friendly and it sounds (and feels) terrific.

Nice...Sometimes you get lucky.
 
Installed the 201 last night and I noticed the increased string height as well. As well as increased tension. Didn't think to swap out the saddles. From what I'm reading, these saddles will go right on the intonation screws in the Gotoh? Or do I need to replace the entire Screw, spring, saddle assembly?

Also, any suggestions as to what to use to keep those small saddle height adjusters to stay in the saddles? I have a couple missing out of a couple of my basses and I noticed a few extremely loose ones in the Gotoh and on my stocker when I removed it.