GR does have a 1x10 combo. It is wood, not the lighter material.
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All the GR Bass cabs are supposed to have the same transparent tone (no strong voicing), so they probably sound quite similar. Basically, your hear the tone of your instrument (and amp). It's more a question of form factor preference, maybe the dispersion is different, and you should also think of future modularity (what other cab would you like to add afterwards, is it the same width as the 2x12 or the 4x10?).Question for the hive mind: Can anyone with experience speak to the differences between the AT 212+ and the AT 410+? Other than power handling, the specs seem very close, and YouTube resources don't really highlight the difference in sonic qualities. I'd be powering them with an Aguilar DB751.
Thanks!
The active 10” with a preamp pedal would work well. I use a Active 210 with a Genzler preamp.Why not contact them directly and just ask?
Maybe they’ll build another one for you
I think maybe you intended to reply to this one?The active 10” with a preamp pedal would work well. I use a Active 210 with a Genzler preamp.
I was interested in the 2 x 6" because it would make a good companion for my existing Markbass 602 combo and also that while weight is important, overall footprint/dimensions are important to me also.
Now that I think about it, I think GRBass was offering a 1 x 10" as well. It seems like they eliminated a bunch of smaller cabinets from their lineup at some point.
I downsized from 2 Berg HDN212's to a AT210 (diagonal 600W) / AT115 stack. This rig is clean and articulate, has plenty of lows that hit you in the gut and can easily hit ear damaging SPL's.I am starting to look for light weight cab. I can't remember how the GRBass cabs sounds like. I am looking for a cab that has an even clean sound, that can go deep in the lows. I am thinking on the AT410+ or AT212+. what do you all recommend.
Clear, articulate, punchy with nice lows. I have an AT212 Slim (23lbs) and an AT212+ Slim One1400 combo (34lbs) great sound from both.I am starting to look for light weight cab. I can't remember how the GRBass cabs sounds like. I am looking for a cab that has an even clean sound, that can go deep in the lows. I am thinking on the AT410+ or AT212+. what do you all recommend.
I downsized from 2 Berg HDN212's to a AT210 (diagonal 600W) / AT115 stack. This rig is clean and articulate, has plenty of lows that hit you in the gut and can easily hit ear damaging SPL's.
I went with that specific combo to get the sound up towards my ears and from a recommendation from John Fox Bass who prefers that combo of cabs out of their entire lineup. They do sound different as stand alone cabs so do your research on what you'd prefer.
...
My guess is that the + has a tweeter?Love my Barefaced cab, but the prospect of getting something even lighter has me intrigued. Does anyone know what the difference between the AT 112H and AT 112 H+ is? The latter appears to weigh about 1 lb more.
Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt
Make Your Own Cables: A How-To Guide Unique Arrangements of Hymns, P&W Standards, and Original Tunes
Official Pedulla Club #45
Administrator, Official Heartfield Club #36
Administrator, Official Tobias Club #133
Administrator, Official Pre-Gibson Tobias Owners Club
Administrator, Fretless Club #943
Big Cabs Club #23
My Basses
My Rig: Stage and FOH Friendly
Make Your Own Cables: A How-To Guide
The difference is the power handling of the speaker. The + is 450 watts, think the non+ is 350 watts.Love my Barefaced cab, but the prospect of getting something even lighter has me intrigued. Does anyone know what the difference between the AT 112H and AT 112 H+ is? The latter appears to weigh about 1 lb more.
Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt
Make Your Own Cables: A How-To Guide Unique Arrangements of Hymns, P&W Standards, and Original Tunes
Official Pedulla Club #45
Administrator, Official Heartfield Club #36
Administrator, Official Tobias Club #133
Administrator, Official Pre-Gibson Tobias Owners Club
Administrator, Fretless Club #943
Big Cabs Club #23
My Basses
My Rig: Stage and FOH Friendly
Make Your Own Cables: A How-To Guide
This? That looks really sharp.Yes the 112 H+ has a different driver higher power handling. I own the “NF” version (same weight, looks nicer (to me)). I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of a new Barefaced super compact T. I probably can’t really justify keeping both. We shall see.
So after all of those details…Well, I took the plunge and took a chance on the NF 112H+. Reverb seller Specialty Traders offered a 30-day return so I figured I couldn’t lose. I went with the NF (natural fiber) version because I like the vintage look. So - it was a “showdown” between the GR and the Barefaced Big Baby 2 Gen 3 I’ve been using the past couple of years since I picked it over an Acme Low B112 Full Range ( see here ).
At 17 lbs., the thing is insanely (and delightfully) lightweight! It does have something of a hollow sound when rapping on the cabinet, which is a little disconcerting. That’s a big “no-no” with well-made, hi-fi home theater speakers, but I can see how it might be considered an intentional “voicing” feature for a bass or guitar cabinet.
A common description of the GR cabs on this thread is that they sound “articulate,” "clear," and “transparent." I think I’d describe it as having hi-fi or “flat” sound, which is merely another way of saying the same thing.
The BF does seem to have more bottom end. But a little testing with a parametric EQ* (connected across my amp’s EFX loop) shows it has a pronounced “hot spot” at about 90-100 Hz. That has the effect of enhancing the perceived low end, but it also makes things sound a bit “loose” and bloated everywhere on the neck (except perhaps the 2nd octave of the G string).
Compared to the BF, the GR sounds tight and uniform up and down the neck, even with the lowest notes on my 5-stringers. In my previous comparison between the Baby and the Acme, and I also felt the Acme sounded smoother and tighter than the Baby.
I took the GR to a little gig right after I got it, in the “party room” at a local restaurant. In a bigger room (than my small living room, that is) the low end did seem a tad shy on the B string notes (I was kinda expecting that), but a slight boost of the bass knob on the amp was all it needed (and I do mean “slight,” like half-way between 12:00 and 1:00).
To my surprise, I got a compliment afterwards on the way the bass sounded. This person has been at previous gigs I’ve done with the same band at the same venue with the BF and Acme speakers, and this was the first time she (or anyone) has said anything.
BF claims the Big Baby 2 Gen 3 gives most 4-10s a run for the money. That’s definitely a great thing if you need that kind of output. I don’t, since I don’t do any loud gigs. My situation is, at 69 I’m not getting any younger, so lighter is definitely better. The fact that I like the GR’s sound better is the icing on the cake. It's a keeper. The Baby will go up for sale.
I was concerned about the practical aspects of gigging with the GR though, mainly that its hard cabinet material may crack if it takes a hit or gets dropped. Since the 1-12 cabinets I’ve been using the past few years are small (the Acme, BF, and now the GR), I like to set them on a portable folding stool to have easier access to the amp on top. The problem with the GR is its light weight potentially makes it easy to knock over. Not to mention the cabinet is friggin’ slippery, which would seem to make that even more of a danger.
I thought an amp stand would be a good idea, but typically they tilt the cabinet at really severe angles. That’s not going to work if you have an outboard amp like I do.
Eventually I came across this one from ProLine. Compared to the others it only tilts a few degrees, so it’s “amp on top” friendly. In addition, the arms have rubber strips to keep the cabinet from sliding around. That takes care of “slippery” issue. It was only $50 or so, and my local Guitar Center had it in stock.
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* The technique with the parametric EQ is to boost a filter to 6 dB or so and set the bandwidth for about 1/3 octave. Start the frequency knob with low setting, maybe 30 Hz. Have someone play a repetitive note on your bass on the lower end of the E string, and slowly turn (“sweep”) the frequency knob towards higher frequencies. If the cabinet has a “hot spot,” it will jump out like crazy when you hit that frequency. The good news is, you can cut that frequency a few dB and it will make the cabinet sound flatter and less bloated. YMMV as to whether you think that actually sounds better.
Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt
Make Your Own Cables: A How-To Guide Unique Arrangements of Hymns, P&W Standards, and Original Tunes
Official Pedulla Club #45
Administrator, Official Heartfield Club #36
Administrator, Official Tobias Club #133
Administrator, Official Pre-Gibson Tobias Owners Club
Administrator, Fretless Club #943
Big Cabs Club #23
My Basses
My Rig: Stage and FOH Friendly
see here
Well, I took the plunge and took a chance on the NF 112H+. Reverb seller Specialty Traders offered a 30-day return so I figured I couldn’t lose. I went with the NF (natural fiber) version because I like the vintage look. So - it was a “showdown” between the GR and the Barefaced Big Baby 2 Gen 3 I’ve been using the past couple of years since I picked it over an Acme Low B112 Full Range ( see here ).
At 17 lbs., the thing is insanely (and delightfully) lightweight! It does have something of a hollow sound when rapping on the cabinet, which is a little disconcerting. That’s a big “no-no” with well-made, hi-fi home theater speakers, but I can see how it might be considered an intentional “voicing” feature for a bass or guitar cabinet.
A common description of the GR cabs on this thread is that they sound “articulate,” "clear," and “transparent." I think I’d describe it as having hi-fi or “flat” sound, which is merely another way of saying the same thing.
The BF does seem to have more bottom end. But a little testing with a parametric EQ* (connected across my amp’s EFX loop) shows it has a pronounced “hot spot” at about 90-100 Hz. That has the effect of enhancing the perceived low end, but it also makes things sound a bit “loose” and bloated everywhere on the neck (except perhaps the 2nd octave of the G string).
Compared to the BF, the GR sounds tight and uniform up and down the neck, even with the lowest notes on my 5-stringers. In my previous comparison between the Baby and the Acme, and I also felt the Acme sounded smoother and tighter than the Baby.
I took the GR to a little gig right after I got it, in the “party room” at a local restaurant. In a bigger room (than my small living room, that is) the low end did seem a tad shy on the B string notes (I was kinda expecting that), but a slight boost of the bass knob on the amp was all it needed (and I do mean “slight,” like half-way between 12:00 and 1:00).
To my surprise, I got a compliment afterwards on the way the bass sounded. This person has been at previous gigs I’ve done with the same band at the same venue with the BF and Acme speakers, and this was the first time she (or anyone) has said anything.
BF claims the Big Baby 2 Gen 3 gives most 4-10s a run for the money. That’s definitely a great thing if you need that kind of output. I don’t, since I don’t do any loud gigs. My situation is, at 69 I’m not getting any younger, so lighter is definitely better. The fact that I like the GR’s sound better is the icing on the cake. It's a keeper. The Baby will go up for sale.
I was concerned about the practical aspects of gigging with the GR though, mainly that its hard cabinet material may crack if it takes a hit or gets dropped. Since the 1-12 cabinets I’ve been using the past few years are small (the Acme, BF, and now the GR), I like to set them on a portable folding stool to have easier access to the amp on top. The problem with the GR is its light weight potentially makes it easy to knock over. Not to mention the cabinet is friggin’ slippery, which would seem to make that even more of a danger.
I thought an amp stand would be a good idea, but typically they tilt the cabinet at really severe angles. That’s not going to work if you have an outboard amp like I do.
Eventually I came across this one from ProLine. Compared to the others it only tilts a few degrees, so it’s “amp on top” friendly. In addition, the arms have rubber strips to keep the cabinet from sliding around. That takes care of “slippery” issue. It was only $50 or so, and my local Guitar Center had it in stock.
![]()
* The technique with the parametric EQ is to boost a filter to 6 dB or so and set the bandwidth for about 1/3 octave. Start the frequency knob with low setting, maybe 30 Hz. Have someone play a repetitive note on your bass on the lower end of the E string, and slowly turn (“sweep”) the frequency knob towards higher frequencies. If the cabinet has a “hot spot,” it will jump out like crazy when you hit that frequency. The good news is, you can cut that frequency a few dB and it will make the cabinet sound flatter and less bloated. YMMV as to whether you think that actually sounds better.
Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt
Make Your Own Cables: A How-To Guide Unique Arrangements of Hymns, P&W Standards, and Original Tunes
Official Pedulla Club #45
Administrator, Official Heartfield Club #36
Administrator, Official Tobias Club #133
Administrator, Official Pre-Gibson Tobias Owners Club
Administrator, Fretless Club #943
Big Cabs Club #23
My Basses
My Rig: Stage and FOH Friendly
see here
I haven't 'played out' for years (I stay in the sanctuary). It's cool that GR is providing such a good sounding lightweight cab to make things manageable for us vintage folks. Deep down in the text you'll find this: "The fact that I like the GR’s sound better is the icing on the cake. It's a keeper. The Baby will go up for sale."So after all of those details…
Thumbs up or down??
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