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Graphite necks

Back in 98 I had a Modulus neck on my parts Jazz bass. It had no trussrod so there was a little fret buzz on the first 4 frets. My tech said either raise the action or try heavy strings to see if it pulls the neck forward.
I tried the heavier strings and it worked but I didn't like the feel so I went back to 45-105s and just dealt with it.
I wouldn't buy another graphite neck, even with a truss rod.
 
Back in 98 I had a Modulus neck on my parts Jazz bass. It had no trussrod so there was a little fret buzz on the first 4 frets. My tech said either raise the action or try heavy strings to see if it pulls the neck forward.
I tried the heavier strings and it worked but I didn't like the feel so I went back to 45-105s and just dealt with it.
I wouldn't buy another graphite neck, even with a truss rod.

You could have those frets worked on...I wonder why your guy didn't think of that.
 
I have few questions about basses with graphite necks like modulus or status graphite.

1. Does graphite neck have a truss rod? or does the neck bend or need adjustments?
2. Does it sound different than a bass with wood neck?
3. Does it feel different?
4. Is bass with a graphite neck heavier than a bass with a wood neck?

There are , AFAIK, no new Modulus replacements necks, since the company went belly up a few years ago. Mind you even if it has been taken over by someone else they seem to just produce finished basses at this time. So left only, are Moses and Status. Moses makes - lo and behold - Modulus replacement necks.

1. Depends on brand, wheter its Modulus, Moses, Status. On Moses site, there's a slight biased history, on the history of truss rods in graphite necks. Moses used them all of the time, since they are not completely solid necks! They have a "beeswax cave system" inside that is semi-solid plus truss rod.

2. Depends on brand. Mostly, I would say yes, but you can't say there's a clear difference between wood and graphite. Like...there's just ONE wood, and if there's different woods (maple, wenge, rosewood) they would sound exactly the same. There's too much difference between wood necks too, so that assumption or question isn't really valid. I'ts like asking: "do they have the same color as ... friday?"

3. Yes, unanimously. But different is neither worse nor better. Moses have a soft vibrant feel, since their necks often vibrates with the notes, others are stiff and have no resonance at all that you can feel in your fingers. I've played wooden necks that has been so stiff and dull, that you'd thought they were made of plastic or anything else (but graphite). The main thing is - though - that there is a slightly higher rate of consistency in tone and feel among the same graphite necks manufacturer. Even if you'd try to do everything identically with a maple neck from Warmoth or USACG, chances (or risks) are that they sound different between two exactly similar items. How much difference that's allowed is always up to you. Not so much with any graphite.

4. Depends on brand, but I would like to say on the contrary, by and large. If you have a neck diving bass with a wood neck, chances are that you'll level it out with replacing it with a graphite neck. Without jeopardizing tone, dead spots, or overall tonal character.

Graphite necks, do have DEAD SPOTS but less so that wooden necks. The dead spot is not removed by graphite, but mosly making the neck headless (see for the uptenth time on Fender protoype headless made in 70's, the dead spot didn't disappear until HEADSTOCK was completely removed). Graphite necks plus headless such as Steinberger are a safe bet if you will avoid dead spots to the greatest extent. You'll minimize them, at least. But there are other things than dead spots to be concerned of.

Maintenance: refretting or maintaining a graphite necks, may require different tools and skills than any wooden neck. Moses has their shortcomings too, in spite of them being the easiest to work on, regarding filing, or screwing things into them. My biggest gripe with Moses graphite necks are the truss rods. It's almost impossible to get the neck straight and you can't get a proper "drop off" at the end of fretboard.

MOSES graphite necks are way too flexible for me to use. If a string breaks on the bass , which it actually did a couple of years ago, the top g-string, the relief and "bow" of the neck reacted immediately, in the middle of a tune, so it had a severe backbow due to the lost tension and made the rest three strings fret buzz like hell on all frets, so it was impossible to finish the tune on three strings. Which I would normaly do.

Wooden necks, shows some healthy tardiness, and when adjusting truss rods, it takes like 15 minutes before it has settled together with string tension. You can't even do drop tunings on a Moses graphite without adjusting action. If you've taken all strings off, and put them on one by one, and bring them up to pitch ist impossible. You must tune up all strings simultaneosly. If you take all but one string off, that string will buzz severely. It's because of their blend. If they make them stiffer, to cope with that, they sound and feel worse. I think the best solution is a double throw truss rod, that can be set and no single action truss rod. But no, they wont go that way.

Mind you, this is just Moses, not the other ones. The only company I have never ever heard any flak towards, are English Status. Both their necks and basses. Modulus comes second (some issues with earliest models) and last Moses. Moses are the cheapest though. Go figure why.

Graphite necks should have adjustable truss rods, period. If it hasn't, shy away. The relief should be adjustable to a varied amount of string tension, and different string gauges as well as different tunings needs different reliefs. There's no such thing as one relief fits all.
 
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I have few questions about basses with graphite necks like modulus or status graphite.

1. Does graphite neck have a truss rod? or does the neck bend or need adjustments?
2. Does it sound different than a bass with wood neck?
3. Does it feel different?
4. Is bass with a graphite neck heavier than a bass with a wood neck?

1. Depends, modern necks generally have truss rods. I've had couple older Status basses without rods that worked just fine.

2. I wouldn't be able to tell the difference, electronics and strings matter more. The real sound difference to me is how even the graphite necks feel.

3. They feel pretty similar to painted necks.

4. The weight is pretty similar, depends on construction (what you see is a relatively thin shell laid over low-density foam or such)
 
I had modulus quantum for quite a long time and there was something in sound different than wood.
The mids are differents, like something is ringing. But you can basically do everything with a carbon or graphite neck.

I played a vigier which had cardon fiber neck through build but it was sounding too 80' for me.

Now I can choose a wood combinaison that can sounds as detailed as carbon without the ringing in the mids. Maple + ebony.
 
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Granted, since there are more options with wood, you can choose different tones and timbres more than of any graphite. I bet Modulus just have one method, Steinberger one, Moses and Status one molded model they usually or always use, and you have to stick to it. Haven't seen any possibilities of ordering custom graphite necks that sounds like "this or that wood". Or something that sounds like something completely else as an option.
 
There's also a false assumption (generalisation) around, that the most ugly, sterile, clean, clinical sounding bass would be one like this:

1. Graphite neck plus body (any). Flat response.
2. Active pickups (active pickups, not active system) like EMG, which gives a neutral and flat response.
3. Stainless Steel strings on hex core. Highest treble zzzzing, and no warmth.
4. Any lightweight class D amp... into..
5. Any Neodymium cab with lightweight speakers in it.

Likewise the false assumption, that for any organic, vintage, warm, and human sounding bass would be:

1. All wood (any) neck, and body.
2. Passive vintage single coil pickups from the 50s. Alnico 2 in them.
3. PURE NICKEL bass strings on round core. Lowest treble zzing and output. Or even flatwounds!
4. A hefty AMPEG tube head (Yes VT, VST whatever)... into
5. 8x10 cab with old heavy duty alnico speakers in it. paper cones.

If it was that easy...
 
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My only experience with a graphite neck is on my Peavey G. The following answers are based on it and may not apply to other graphite necked basses.



1. Yes. I have one with the Modulus made neck. I adjusted it when I got it, and haven’t needed to since.

2. Yes. I find it has a very even frequency response. Very clean and punchy, but a little bland and lacking the character wood has IMO. YMMV.

3. No, it feels like any neck with a glossy finish.

4. Mine is 8 lbs.
 
I have few questions about basses with graphite necks like modulus or status graphite.

1. Does graphite neck have a truss rod? or does the neck bend or need adjustments?
2. Does it sound different than a bass with wood neck?
3. Does it feel different?
4. Is bass with a graphite neck heavier than a bass with a wood neck?

1. Even though graphite necks are generally not susceptible to movement due to humidity and stuff, they should have truss rods. Early ones didn't, but most do now. You want to be able to adjust the neck. What if you get heavier gauge strings for example?

2. Yes. Graphite necks lend a more compressed response with a harder edge in the high mids, and less sparkle in the treble. It's a clean, clear tone with excellent note definition and less warmth. It's a little less responsive to how hard you play as well.

3. Yes. The bass will respond differently with a graphite neck. You won't feel the bass vibrate as much. It feels more "deadened" to me.

4. Unknown/negligible in my experience.
 
There's also a false assumption (generalisation) around, that the most ugly, sterile, clean, clinical sounding bass would be one like this:

1. Graphite neck plus body (any). Flat response.
2. Active pickups (active pickups, not active system) like EMG, which gives a neutral and flat response.
3. Stainless Steel strings on hex core. Highest treble zzzzing, and no warmth.
4. Any lightweight class D amp... into..
5. Any Neodymium cab with lightweight speakers in it.
Apparently I like my basses sterile. All I need is the graphite body and I can get clinical. :D

I actually like the Moses necks. They have nice feel to me, but I also have a couple basses with painted satin finishes on them so I'm definitely in the minority. With that being said I do want to get a Modulus one day and build something around a Status neck. So apparently just enjoy the non wood necks all around.
 
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Yeah, I don't think he was very good. Supposedly, he was one of the best in the area. I dont know why he didn't plane down the frets to compensate lack of relief.
This needed a plane and a refret... fortunately Jerry Dorsch is still around..
1978517_741652339180843_261578660_o.jpg
 
I have three Graphite necked basses.. all the same thing.. they has a wood fret board.. I would say because it is stiffer that it's not as warm.. more acturate.. and cleaner then wood.. and less dead spots because of the freq at which it vibrates.. my basses are a little warmer then a pure graphite bass..
 
I have 92 modulus Fretted 5 Sweetspot (I played tonight), and 95 Sweetspot Fretless 5; both with egg's and graphite fingerboards. I have used them for years. I love the graphite Modulus necks with no truss rod. Never had a problem with buzz, always in tune, clear, sustaining, but a little dry and hollow sounding. I run them through a Streamliner and a VT Pedal to add lots of warmth. I love them and will never sell them, but I have gone back to an old 99 P bass, and a warmth jazz for current classic rock type of stuff I am doing. Nothing like the real thing.
 
I have three Graphite necked basses.. all the same thing.. they has a wood fret board.. I would say because it is stiffer that it's not as warm.. more acturate.. and cleaner then wood.. and less dead spots because of the freq at which it vibrates.. my basses are a little warmer then a pure graphite bass..

And that's a classic.

Why do you think wood fretboard sounds warmer? Because wood as warmer feel?
Did you tried pure graphite necks?

What do you by warm? Is it Attack? Trebles? Bass? sustain?


I love cold sounds, my current bass is made with a wood choices that gives a "as flat as possible" response considered cold.
That why i did not keep my modulus, because it was too warm... Soft bass, soft treble, fast attack but only an harmonic sustain.
 
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If you're going for a direct replacement neck for any J or P or MM bass it's:

STATUS GRAPHITE P BASS NECK = 413 USD (around)
MOSES GRAPHITE P BASS NECK = 420 USD (circa)

4 string. Regular. 20 frets.
I know for one thing. I would make the plunge into Status anyway, in spite of added shipping costs, if I lived in the USA. If I live in Europe, Status wins hands down. Added on top of ordering a Moses from US to EU, neck would be a) shipping b) vat tax added c) custom fees. These can be 10-15 percent ... mind you...each. If I had to replace headless, or modulus or fanned frets, there's only Moses around. And I do like Moses sound, and especially feel, but wished that they didn't flex like hell. Once during playing, I felt I just had to adjust the strap to sit more comfortable, and adjust the angle, so while I was playing I sort of took the fretting hand and lifted up the bass a bit, and the long held note started to buzz severely. It's very easy to do neck bowing vibratos on Moses necks, but they're too flexible. Wouldn't put any drop d-tuner on those necks, or detune at all.

And I still don't understand the "no-truss-rod" statement at all. That graphite necks don't need it. They make (or used to) the false assumption that relief is something that you adjust according to climate and seasonal changes. You don't. You change it due to different string gauges, tunings, and action of personal preference. Acoustic graphite guitar makers Rainsong and Composite Acoustics still doesn't think it's needed. I tell you one thing's for sure: It is. One of them have even brought back internal bracing inside the top, not becuase it's needed, but for sound only. If I adjust the truss rod on any instrument, I do still want it to stay that even if all strings are removed completely. I e a double action truss rod won't feel the strings tension below a certain point.
 
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