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Double Bass Grofiller Bass project

#101
Put rib in box. Secure top.
Wait a few minutes, remove rib stock and rap it around form.
The steam is dangerously hot and you must move quickly.

The time honored bending iron is probably the better way to go, This worked pretty good but had some spring back issues.
I was just curious and wanted to see if it this method would work.
(It was inspired by the K.C. Strings rib steaming machine video)
 
#104
How's the bass coming along? In an earlier post you mentioned that the Chandler Gofriller was an Eb neck. Where did you find that information? The Pallotta was also an Eb neck which was a surprise, but is kind of nice for a small bass for solo playing. The next one will be an orchestral bass and I'm wanting to make sure it's a D neck. Do you know about the Lott plans?
 
#106
Don Harris said:
How's the bass coming along? In an earlier post you mentioned that the Chandler Gofriller was an Eb neck. Where did you find that information? The Pallotta was also an Eb neck which was a surprise, but is kind of nice for a small bass for solo playing. The next one will be an orchestral bass and I'm wanting to make sure it's a D neck. Do you know about the Lott plans?
Click to expand...

Hi there! The bass is creeping along rather slowly, I have had some serious "climate control" issues to deal with. Posting new Digital images soon.

After purchasing the plans, I measured the drawings and discovered the heel was not located 1/3 of the string length. I think it would be helpful if that information was on the web site.

My son needs an orchestra type bass preferably with a D neck. The Gofriller was scraped and we started on a Panormo copy. I am hoping it will sound nice in a large theater with other string instruments.
 
#107
Just looked on the web site for the plans, it looks like the Lott plans "probably" has a D neck. The neck length on the Lott drawing seems much shorter than the neck length on the Gofriller drawing.

Do English basses usually have D necks?...... Ken?
Somewhere I read E flat necks are more Germanic.
 
#108
ctregan said:
After purchasing the plans, I measured the drawings and discovered the heel was not located 1/3 of the string length.
Click to expand...

Duh! Why didn't I think of that? For some reason I was thinking I would have to do a full size side perspective drawing with the projection and arching height to see if it was 1/3 the string length, not thinking that he already lists the string length...

Thanks!
 
#109
Damon Rondeau said:
I think Matthew mentioned he'd be doing some European traveling over the Christmas/New Year's period. These days you'd never get the carving tools on-board in the cabin of the plane, so I doubt he's been whittling away the long flights... ;)
Click to expand...

Ha! I'm back in Oz on wednesday and bringing home my aunt's woodcarving gouges from england ... but not in the cabin! I visited Tom Martin's workshop when I was in the UK but missed him, as he was touring at the time.

re: this thread ... changing plans is one way to do it, but making a D neck from and Eb plan is only a few adjustments ... thicken the neck profile at the heel by about an inch is probably the simplest way. leave everything else the same.
 
#114
Lookin' good craig! What kind of wood did you use for the linings? I found gluing linings to be a bugger as well. it seemed for me the curve of the top of the lining, and the curve of the bottom, were two different radius',and not on the same plane as well, no matter how hard I tried. Which resulted in not being able get a flat contact with the ribs all along. unless the linings were aligned so that they ended up highest in the middle of the curve, and shortest at the ends, if that makes sense. Not sure how to solve that consistently, yet.
 
#115
I had three different woods I was testing for linings, and ended using Alder. It was very light, strong and seemed to bend pretty easy. I have not seen alder mentioned very often for string instruments, hope this wasn't a poor choice.
I found keeping the viscosity of the glue on the thin side helped keep the linings tight with no gaps. Also my dry fit was as tight and snug as I could make it. Less sliding around during gluing, (the 30 second panic time).
This project is lasting longer than I thought, and I am not evan at the half way point! Thanks for the support and interest, I hope you find this thread of interest.
 
#117
I found a good size piece of cherry for the back, traced the shape from the ribs and started to plane and carve it to shape.
I used a router with a large rabbiting bit to waste away some of the excess wood around the edges.
I plan on doing the rest with hand tools (I need to save the some $$ for tuners, fingerboard, strings, etc.)
For me, a power carving tool is not cost effective for one bass project.
(instead I'll pay with blisters)

Leveling the ribs was a little tricky, mainly because of the rather extreme break at the shoulders. I am pleased with the the results; breaking point and angles seem to line up good and everything is flat.
 
#119
Just thought I might share this at this tread.
I had never heard of Douglas Fir until I ordered this electric bass with a Doug Fir top from Cliff Bordwell. I must say it is one of the nicest tops I have seen. Wouldn't you agree? Have not had ANY issues with the Doug Fir nor do I expect any :D
 

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#120
EduardoK said:
Just thought I might share this at this tread.
I had never heard of Douglas Fir until I ordered this electric bass with a Doug Fir top from Cliff Bordwell. I must say it is one of the nicest tops I have seen. Wouldn't you agree? Have not had ANY issues with the Doug Fir nor do I expect any :D
Click to expand...

Looks like curly redwood to me...beautiful instrument though!!!
 

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