I just bought an Ibanez GSR200 cheap from someone on craigslist, it's in pretty good shape but the action is really high. I'd rather not take it to a repair shop, for the same reason I bought a cheap bass: I'm poor. But I don't want to do any damage to it either. Any thoughts on whether or not adjusting the action myself is a good idea? I've never done any kind of guitar repair before, but I've read some tutorials on truss rod adjustment, and think I could probably handle it. Are there any other issues I should be aware of? Anything particular to this model bass? Thanks.
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GSR200 -adjust action
- Thread starter mightypants
- Start date
A good time to see if all those tutorials stuck. There's LOTS of threads in in here on 'setup', 'nut height', 'neck relief', 'string height', 'pickup height', 'saddle adjustments'. Also 'broke' will make for an entertaining & informative search. I'd suggest you read up, then measure & assess the bass' current setup, & then ask specific questions. There are lots of very accomplished folk that drop by here, quite willing to answer questions.
I think it's an EXCELLENT idea to set up your own bass. Not only to save $$; to get it set up exactly right for you.
I think it's an EXCELLENT idea to set up your own bass. Not only to save $$; to get it set up exactly right for you.
I myself have a GSR200. When the action gets high, I would shy away from the truss rod; use it as more of a last resort, rather than first decision. The bridge saddles are easy to use, and are a better way to adjust action on that particular model. On top of each saddle (2 for each string) there will be a small hex hole. Use the Allen key that fits to lower the saddles. That should fix any problems you may have.
Rather than a "last resort", the truss rod nut is the first thing to adjust when the issue is neck relief. But you have to know what the issue is you are trying to address.
I should have been clearer. He is right. Once you know the issue, a solution can be attained.
I'd guess we agree that someone cranking away at the truss rod without really knowing what they are doing is to be STRONGLY discouraged. Gross saddle misadjustments rarely cause damage.
Exactly.
As previously stated, with studying how to properly diagnose and fix bass issues, money and time can be saved. The music shop in my city charges 60-100$ for a simple setup. Not worth it.
Ravyn, I do feel that a good and proper basic setup on a bass is worth $100.
But a bit of learning, hands-on, & $20 (if that) in tools makes for an investment that very quickly pays itself back. Plus you can get the bass exactly right for you, and keep it exactly right for you. No 'downtime', no having to deal with a setup that isn't right for you . . .
I did a bunch of searching on the net when I decided that my Fender Jazz was setup too high and I am the type that likes to do anything I can myself.
The best link I found was this: Invalid Link Removed
Granted it may be a fender site, but should get you in the right direction. I have a GSR200 as well, but haven't started on it's adjustments yet.
The best link I found was this: Invalid Link Removed
Granted it may be a fender site, but should get you in the right direction. I have a GSR200 as well, but haven't started on it's adjustments yet.
Setup Sites > http://www.tunemybass.com/bass_setup/
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Setup:
Neck relief and action height are two entirely different, but related adjustments.
1st - set the relief where you want it - some people like it flat - I like mine about the clearance of a credit card (8th) on the lowest string (the highest string will be a tad more do to the higher tension). I can't stand buzz on my lowers (which I get if it's any less).
2nd - set the action height [saddles] - I use a Stew-Mac string action gauge (a most valuable measuring tool) roughly setting it at the 17th - then fine tuning at the 24th ... perfection.
3rd - set intonation - check the 12th fret note with the 12th fret harmonic - use a tuner.
Invalid Link Removed
Invalid Link Removed
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Setup:
Neck relief and action height are two entirely different, but related adjustments.
1st - set the relief where you want it - some people like it flat - I like mine about the clearance of a credit card (8th) on the lowest string (the highest string will be a tad more do to the higher tension). I can't stand buzz on my lowers (which I get if it's any less).
2nd - set the action height [saddles] - I use a Stew-Mac string action gauge (a most valuable measuring tool) roughly setting it at the 17th - then fine tuning at the 24th ... perfection.
3rd - set intonation - check the 12th fret note with the 12th fret harmonic - use a tuner.
Okay, I've done a little more research, and a little tinkering, and now have more specific questions. As I said, the action was quite high, so I checked the neck relief and found a fair amount of bowing. I tightened the truss rod a quarter turn, but was getting a fair amount of resistance so I didn't go any further--don't want to do any damage to it. Then I lowered the saddles quite a bit to get the action as low as I could without messing with the truss rod anymore. So now I have action that is a little too high in the middle due to bowing, and notes choking out on the higher frets (12th and above) because my saddles are too low. I can easily raise the saddles, but of course that makes things even worse in the middle.
I tried measuring the neck relief as per the instructions in one of the tutorials I used, though I don't have the suggested tools for the job. I fretted behind the first and just after the last fret, and measured at the 7th fret. Using a standard ruler, I came up with about 1.5 mm. This is the current state of the instrument (not what it was before I adjusted the TR). Can anyone recommend any steps from here? Or should I just take it into a shop? Thanks.
I tried measuring the neck relief as per the instructions in one of the tutorials I used, though I don't have the suggested tools for the job. I fretted behind the first and just after the last fret, and measured at the 7th fret. Using a standard ruler, I came up with about 1.5 mm. This is the current state of the instrument (not what it was before I adjusted the TR). Can anyone recommend any steps from here? Or should I just take it into a shop? Thanks.
I just bought an MIA Deluxe Jazz and took it to the shop for its first setup. I now have my 6 year old gsr200 at home that it is beat up but still very salvageable. I plan on learning on my gsr200 so that I can do future setups on my own.
Let me know how it goes for you and if there is anything i should watch out for.
Let me know how it goes for you and if there is anything i should watch out for.
ive been to every freakin lowes and home depot and i cant find any allen key that fits a gsr200 saddle. why? 1/16 doesnt even fit
1.5 mm is A LOT of relief. You've got a ways to go yet.
Did you loosen all the strings before adjusting the truss rod? You've got to do that.
If you do that and the truss rod still feels too tight, loosen it a lot, and put a tiny drop of oil on the thread. Then try again.
If you're absolutely out of travel on the truss rod and still have that much relief, you might be able to put a washer under the nut and get a little more travel out of it.
For a relief gage, I suggest two business cards stacked together. That's about .4 mm. A credit card is about .75 mm, and you've got twice that much. Like I said, you've got a ways to go.
And if your truss rod gets too tight to turn, don't force it. If you can't afford a setup, you sure can't afford to have the rod or neck replaced.
Ed
ive been to every freakin lowes and home depot and i cant find any allen key that fits a gsr200 saddle. why? 1/16 doesnt even fit
Ibanez uses metric screws. The bridge on my SR505 takes a 1.5 mm allen key, which is just a little smaller than 1/16".
Ed
"And if your truss rod gets too tight to turn, don't force it. If you can't afford a setup, you sure can't afford to have the rod or neck replaced. "
Ditto this.
Very often, I will backclamp a neck that's not responding to normal trussrod adjustment. I made a pair of spacers to fit over the strings, so I can do this with the strings on, if need be.
I disagree with the notion that you must loosen the strings, when tightening the trussrod; this can lead to the neck taking longer to re-settle. I do put some sort of back pressure on the neck when tightening the trussrod, however.
Ditto this.
Very often, I will backclamp a neck that's not responding to normal trussrod adjustment. I made a pair of spacers to fit over the strings, so I can do this with the strings on, if need be.
I disagree with the notion that you must loosen the strings, when tightening the trussrod; this can lead to the neck taking longer to re-settle. I do put some sort of back pressure on the neck when tightening the trussrod, however.
