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Guitarist Needs Bass Advise
- Thread starter A6stringthing
- Start date
Get yourself a passive Precision bass, alder, rosewood fretboard. That's arguably the most basic tool to have in one's bass tool chest.
However, if you're more a maple fretboard and/or ash kinda guy, that's absolutely fine too - go with that (maple/ash came first, after all). Heck, if anything strikes your fancy, feel free to give it a try. But, you asked for advice, and as a fellow guitarist/bassist/recordist who likes similar kinds of music to what you listed, that's my advice. Still, plenty of awesome rock music has been played on Jazz basses (no doubt!), not to mention Rics and Thunderbirds. If one of those or something else is calling you, go for it. Proceed on with your own bass journey.
But, if you're not sure and are wondering where to start, a passive P is both classic and timeless while fitting a wide variety of rock and rock-related music
However, if you're more a maple fretboard and/or ash kinda guy, that's absolutely fine too - go with that (maple/ash came first, after all). Heck, if anything strikes your fancy, feel free to give it a try. But, you asked for advice, and as a fellow guitarist/bassist/recordist who likes similar kinds of music to what you listed, that's my advice. Still, plenty of awesome rock music has been played on Jazz basses (no doubt!), not to mention Rics and Thunderbirds. If one of those or something else is calling you, go for it. Proceed on with your own bass journey.
But, if you're not sure and are wondering where to start, a passive P is both classic and timeless while fitting a wide variety of rock and rock-related music
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Pardon me for being an echo-chamber, but...P-Bass, P-Bass, P-Bass!
I've done a little studio work, and 95% of everything I did in the studio was on a P-Bass with Flats. The other 5% was on a Jazz Bass with rounds (and 99% of that was me soloing the front pickup to get a P-ish tone).
So my humble, non-authoritative advice is to keep your Sterling, get a P-Bass with flats, and a P-Bass with rounds (or a Jazz with rounds if you must).
Given what you're interested in, there's a mix of P basses, Jazzes, and Gibson dual humbucker basses there. I'd say a PJ would be a good place to start, and don't be afraid to turn the bridge pickup all the way off and just go with a P tone for Steely Dan, TOP, or Black Crowe's.
I personally am not a fan of the greasebucket circuit for a split coil pickup, I want a P bass to be a P bass, but YMMV. The Classic Vibe and Vintage Modified series (I think) both have PJ options and are well built and sound good. You can also check out the Classifieds here on TB or on Reverb for a 1999-2001 (again, I think) "Hot Rodded P" or a 2016 "Magnificent 7" American Standard PJ.
P basses go anywhere, they're the most versatile bass ever, so if you want you can even skip the PJ option and just go with an American Standard or a Player P. I currently own three, not counting the two I bought for my son, and they all sound like P's and they all sound different.
Berry played a Jazz, but don't forget he had it heavily modified with a big ol' neck humbucker pickup.
also, OP: if you think you're going to play the ax for more than 5 minutes or so, at any given time: you should shop for feel (both hands). good luck with your choice(s)!
I'm not sure if it has been mentioned but… A P bass is what you want 
If you have a UA Apollo then between the Ampeg plugins, 610b and 1176s you'll get tons of great options.Thank you! I have some UA Ampeg plug ins that sound great. I plan to get an SVT pro 2r something as well. Right now I have a PF500 that sounds decent.
As for the bass I also equally play both (and am primarily a Gibson and Friedman/Metroplex guy) and as has been mentioned with basses more money definitely doesn't always buy more tone or a better bass. Since you have a Ray (people do incredible recordings with $299 sub rays all the time) I agree either a P-Bass or a PJ is the way to go. Find the one that feels and sounds the best.
I personally gravitate toward the Jazz bass tones more but for recording the single coil hum can be a little bothersome.
Have fun and good luck!
As a guitarist/bassist who does a lot of recording and producing if I had to choose just one bass for sessions I'd choose the J bass. It an get thick or thin sounds and always cuts thru in the mix with clarity of note and doesn't tend to get muddy or heavy, even on the neck pickup.
As a starting place for acquiring a bass I highly recommend the Lakland Skyline series basses. They're expertly Asian built bodies and necks, then assembled and dialed in at Lakland USA and are a lot of bass bang for the buck. I think they are better basses than the Fender MIM basses due to the detail of the assembly and fret
work. And you'll be happy with the Lakland long after your affection for the MIM Fender fades.
As a starting place for acquiring a bass I highly recommend the Lakland Skyline series basses. They're expertly Asian built bodies and necks, then assembled and dialed in at Lakland USA and are a lot of bass bang for the buck. I think they are better basses than the Fender MIM basses due to the detail of the assembly and fret
work. And you'll be happy with the Lakland long after your affection for the MIM Fender fades.
You should also look into preamps and amps.
If it's just for recording, a preamp/EQ/DI is likely all you need, versus an actual amp, and for all of these players, I'd recommend something Ampeg-esque. Check out the T21 VT Bass DI, the Ampeg SCR-DI, the Ampeg Classic, the Catalinbread SFT, the Beta Deluxe, or a used T21 BDDI (there's also a Behringer and a Joyo clone of thise one). Search the Effects forum here on TB.
If you want something that "just works" get the Pbass. The L2000 is great (I have one) but they do take quite a bit of fiddling around at first to understand how they work.
I have played all of the classic basses and also play guitar. I would recommend the American Original Precision bass, or a American Professional if you want to save money. If you can find a used American Vintage 63 Precision those are awesome. That is what I play. My experience is that a P tone is deeper and better than any other configuration. I would avoid the American Standards, the Players, and the MIM P's. They are not as warm sounding. Also, avoid active preamps and ignore anyone who says otherwise. For what you want to do, that sound is rather niche. It will work, but not nearly as well.
Although "you need a P" is a very common meme around here, there is good reason in your situation to go that way. Your Sterling will do the bright, articulate thing very well. Although a Jazz will do something different, the P is MORE different from what you have, and in laying down tracks, you'll get more coverage/diversity of sounds out of a P and your bass than you will out of a J and your bass.
Fender P is the standard, for all of the reasons above.
Find a good one--one that you like, (or a clone), independent of pedigree. You can always add instruments with more "character" as you go.
While many players consider a P a "one trick pony," it is still considered. It sits well in the mix and can be dialed in quickly. For the "basics" hard to go wrong.
Welcome to the bottom end!
Find a good one--one that you like, (or a clone), independent of pedigree. You can always add instruments with more "character" as you go.
While many players consider a P a "one trick pony," it is still considered. It sits well in the mix and can be dialed in quickly. For the "basics" hard to go wrong.
Welcome to the bottom end!
until you said this I had 0 to contribute, figuring tb had you covered for GAS encouragement, but IMO it all begins and ends with a good P bass. unless it must say Fender you can get a vintage facsimile with any rebadged Samick LB11 for $100 all day. that may not sound sexy but it is! they've been around for decades, old Epiphone Ps with the cool pseudo batwing headstock, or the new Silvertone Revolver in total black, these are all LB11s, they sound like a P bass should and look good doing it. plus they're lightweight and play great with nice med. girth Fendery necks, good for switching from guitar.
for a mere $100 you can have a fine P bass and still afford the Fender of your choice lol
Everything about your post tells me you need a Pbass. A decent, regular 'ol, passive Pbass. Keep the Sterling for a different sound.
With a P it's more about the pickups and strings than the maple vs rosewood neck or different body woods.
Even a MIM or Squier, if it's set up well can totally handle the job. A buddy of mine recently got a Squier Classic Vibe 70's Pbass, pro setup, dropped some Lindy Fralin pickups in and it records KILLER. Even before the pickup upgrade, we tracked it through a nice front end and it was totally great. Did what a P is supposed to do!
Ideally, what you really need for your studio quiver, are two Pbasses - one with flatwounds and one with rounds!
With a P it's more about the pickups and strings than the maple vs rosewood neck or different body woods.
Even a MIM or Squier, if it's set up well can totally handle the job. A buddy of mine recently got a Squier Classic Vibe 70's Pbass, pro setup, dropped some Lindy Fralin pickups in and it records KILLER. Even before the pickup upgrade, we tracked it through a nice front end and it was totally great. Did what a P is supposed to do!
Ideally, what you really need for your studio quiver, are two Pbasses - one with flatwounds and one with rounds!
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I second the PJ idea. You can always dial out the J side if it's not needed but it's really nice to have it
available.
JeezyMcNuggles
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