• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Hartke HD75 rattle on D

#24
I'm thinking about it and have another question. I agree it probably isn't glued. My guess is some kind of gasketing has dried and bonded. This brings up my question...are you sure the driver is sitting flush all around the circumference? If the gasketing is dry and hard it could easily make noise if there's any gap.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Al Kraft
#25
Glued at the factory? or has the paper composite gasket broken down and become sticky? A gasket usually has seams or gaps every 90 degrees. I have other brands, but none glued in. But I can imagine makers might do that. And if glued presumably can be reglued. And gaskets can be replaced.

also on Harke I see some comment about loose dust caps (2”ish round) at the center of the speaker.
 
#27
Sorry but it’s been a busy work week and I am finally getting back on this. You guys are correct that the speaker wasn’t glued in as a I thought just the gasket sticking to the cab. I carefully got it off. Here is a pick of the inside.
 

Attachments

  • 873A4DDA-7C99-4DC4-9B7F-A9DD16435591.jpeg
    873A4DDA-7C99-4DC4-9B7F-A9DD16435591.jpeg
    796 KB · Views: 29
#29
So I ended up sealing the cab seams with some RVT as the glueing was inconsistent with gaps and holes. I also put a rubber grommet on the speaker wires where is comes through the cab. I took out the extra insulation I had previously put in and placed a single piece at the top of the cab where the rattle seems to be coming from. Finally I moved the speaker one quarter turn when reinstalling it. I will let the RVT dry thoroughly and try it tonight.
 
#30
Newb Craig said:
So I ended up sealing the cab seams with some RVT as the glueing was inconsistent with gaps and holes. I also put a rubber grommet on the speaker wires where is comes through the cab. I took out the extra insulation I had previously put in and placed a single piece at the top of the cab where the rattle seems to be coming from. Finally I moved the speaker one quarter turn when reinstalling it. I will let the RVT dry thoroughly and try it tonight.
Click to expand...
Seems like you've covered all the bases (no pun intended). Did you notice any cabinet mating pieces and/or bracing that seemed loose? That is something I would have expected given what you discovered when you sat on the cab. Also, extra (especially unsecured) insulation that flaps in the breeze can sound like vibration IME. Sealing gaps is also an area that can help as air leaks can also sound like vibration IME.

Looking forward to your next post with results of your repairs...hopefully you got it sorted.
 
#31
RTV is the worst possible material to use, it won’t penetrate the joints, and now nothing will adhere to the surfaces. If it’s the cabinet and it still rattles, it’s junk.

RTV is silicone based, should never be used on anything musical instrument based. The acetic acid cure is also corrosive.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 6thplanet
#33
In my small room where I keep my Amp I had problem with 'D' notes [all strings] sounding much louder with more of a woof/buzz than rattle [all other notes fine]
Cab was on floor with 'Ampwedge' under it for some isolation and angle up, bought Isolation base still had problem.

put it up in the air 15" on another cab [not plugged in] solved problem; most likely a Stand will work.

May want to try getting it off the floor 12-20" with something with in reach
 
#34
Newb Craig said:
Wellll…too late now. The cab was glued together so I was really looking to just seal it better. If it still rattles after this I was going to try to brace it with some sort of L brackets.
Click to expand...
That's not going to work either.

If you learn a little more about cabinet construction, you will understand better what you are up against and why.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back