As Rob pointed out above, some people claim very good results putting thin cork under the feet. Chuck Traeger discusses it in his book, for what that's worth. I've been tempted to try it just because it sounds so counter-intuitive.
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I am not having any issues with volume -- it's a loud bass. I find it a bit brash though...I guess it wouldn't hurt to see what sort of effect I get from a little cork. Perhaps it will add some complexity to the tone.
- Aug 1, 2005
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The thing is that this is a quick, cheap, non-invasive, and easily reversible procedure. If you don't have access to a proper bass luthier who can fit your bridge, then why not try it? Even if you do, it might be an interesting experiment. What have you got to lose?
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I think the sandpaper method is doable, I used it in the old days before I got adjusters, and I sometimes added wood under the feet for ekstra height. You have to do one foot at a time/alternatively, and grab the foot close to the sandpaper/top and work firmly and calm, in small movements. If you then want to take out 0,3 mms from under the middle of the foot, you can do that with sandpaper and a thumb. Just my 2 c.
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Couple of things to assist you and *your* formula for fitting. First, don't be afraid of a sharp knife - think utility knife, large exacto - something really sharp. You're going to shave the rough curvature on the foot, and a knife will do this in a fraction of time to sand. Second, tracing the old feet onto the new blank is good if the previous bridge was correct, but you can also trace the top curvature onto your blank as pictured, using a pencil guided by the top itself, marking onto the blank. Gotta have the extra wood to carve away so this has to be done early and planned for. Third, after you've carved some curvature into the feet, you can use the sandpaper-on-the-top method for the final fit, but you need a guide to control the motion of the blank. I use a quick clamp, clamped on the blank top, with the bar protruding towards the tailpiece. I then stack blocks and shims on the saddle area (usually a series of 2x4, 1x2s and paint stirrer shims taped together) to the right height to give me the blank angle I want (blank backside perpendicular to the top), the blocks act as the guide for the clamp bar. Works excellently, produces a precise fit with no rollover or feathering at the feet edges.
