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Help a Noob defret and paint a fingerboard

It's been 72 hours and this epoxy is still not dry. How is this even possible? I can see screwing it up once, but not twice. I was super careful this time.

To be fair, it is much better than last time. But there are still a few spots that aren't fully dry. I'll give it a few more days. If this doesn't work I'm cutting the fretboard off and just replacing it with a piece of ebony.
 
Were you super careful with the mixing? Need to scrape the sides of the container constantly while mixing for 5 minutes then transfer to another container and mix another 5 minutes.
Did you do more than one pour (cant pour wet on top of another, need to pour beside previous pour and let them flow together)?
 
Were you super careful with the mixing? Need to scrape the sides of the container constantly while mixing for 5 minutes then transfer to another container and mix another 5 minutes.
Did you do more than one pour (cant pour wet on top of another, need to pour beside previous pour and let them flow together)?

Mix for ten minutes? Seriously? I certainly didn't do that. I probably mixed for two minutes. I did measurevery carefully. I only did one pour, meaning I did not layer it.
 
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Yeah I've never mixed epoxy for 10 minutes. More like 30-60 seconds.

Haven't had this problem, except when I used too little hardener. I know System 3 requires a lot more precision than some others, and they recommend measuring by weight.
 
Mix for ten minutes? Seriously? I certainly didn't do that. I probably mixed for two minutes. I did measurevery carefully. I only did one pour, meaning I did not layer it.
Yes seriously. You did not mix well enough.System 3 has a whole range of epoxies, which one did you use?.

With the exception of hardening in the pot, is there anything bad about adding too much hardener.
YES
 
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With the exception of hardening in the pot, is there anything bad about adding too much hardener.

I did try out mixing in extra hardener once. (On a batch of fiberglass epoxy) The epoxy turned into a gooey mess while mixing. It then got very, very hot, turned deep amber and set in a few seconds from that point. After it had dried it was brittle as glass.

Not very usable.
 
Most manufacturers recommend 5 minutes, other sources (and my experience) call for tansferring the 1st mix to a 2nd clean container (use disposable plastic beer cups) for more mixing. The right type of epoxy has a working time of 40 minutes, plenty of time.

Correct mix proportions is crucial (usually 1:1), use two platics cups side by side to evenly measure out resin & hardener then pour one into the other.

It should turn out so hard (and it can take more than 72 hrs) that it will be a big big job to sand own the radius and polish.

Do a test batch on a scrap of wood before attempting your neck. I know this is all a little too late.....

From U.S. Composites...

Beginners Notes:
This material leaves professional results when applied correctly so take your time and make sure to beware of these of the common problems we have seen encountered by first time users.

1. Always make sure that your mixing container is clean and your measuring device is accurate, this product REQUIRES that you mix at a 1 to 1 ratio by weight or volume, any variances from this can cause the epoxy to stay soft and not fully cure.
2. This product requires a THOROUGH mixing, usually between 4 to 5 minutes of solid mixing without excessive whipping of the mixture(whipping will put lots of air bubbles into the epoxy). Mixing one gallon at a time can require up to 6 to 7 minutes of mixing. Beginners should never attempt to mix more than one gallon total per batch, 2 quarts per batch is suggested until you feel comfortable with how the product works.
3. After the two components are poured together and stirring begins the mixture will turn a cloudy white color, this represents areas in which the epoxy has not fully combined. You must continue to mix until all signs of cloudiness and tiny white lines have completely disappeared (usually takes 3-4 minutes of thorough mixing).
4. Always scrape the sides of your mixing container and also the stick during those 3-4 minutes. If UNMIXED epoxy remains on the side of the container or the stick it will cause wet spots on your finished product if that UNMIXED material falls into your project......Followup: While pouring your epoxy onto the surface NEVER scrape the container to remove every last drop, because no matter how thorough you mix there will always be an unmixed drop on the side of the container that will leave a wet spot.
 
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OP how is the epoxy now? I did some searching around for info and found out that if you have local wet spots that have not cured they (the wet spots) can be scraped clean and you can apply another layer....

"If you notice soft, sticky areas in your resin application that do not seem to be curing properly, you will have to scrape off the wet material and pour another coat......Make sure you scrape away all non-cured material and wipe the surface before re-coating, otherwise the stickiness could eventually leak out from under the new resin coat."

I hope this helps.
 
I hope this helps.
It does help. And it's the same basic conclusion that I've come to. 98% of the surface area is hard and intact with no issues. There are just a few small pockets where it's wet. So, I was thinking that I should at least get it down to the radius and see what I'm working with. It could be that those pockets are the only issues and will get removed in the sanding process. It could also get that these are just the proverbial tip of the iceberg and under the surface it's a complete disaster. But, I won't know until I try. I've been traveling recently. So, I haven't been home to work with the neck. I'll probably get a crack at it this weekend.
 
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It does help. And it's the same basic conclusion that I've come to. 98% of the surface area is hard and intact with no issues. There are just a few small pockets where it's wet. So, I was thinking that I should at least get it down to the radius and see what I'm working with. It could be that those pockets are the only issues and will get removed in the sanding process. It could also get that these are just the proverbial tip of the iceberg and under the surface it's a complete disaster. But, I won't know until I try. I've been traveling recently. So, I haven't been home to work with the neck. I'll probably get a crack at it this weekend.

That sounds good, remove that 2% wet and just reapply a little well mixed epoxy in those pockets. Make sure it is dry and maybe even try to scratch it up a bit in the pocket to give the epoxy something to adhere to. I did epoxy over epoxy, it took me a few tries. I'm almost due for another layer as mine has developed two little pin like soft spots after a number of years, maybe a bubble? I'd sand it down all after fixing the spots.

Most probably a mixing problem, mine hardened in 30 mins or so, I think I mixed for a minute or more, scrape around the edges and get to the bottom and corners, it gets hot, deforms a plastic coffee cup hot.
 
Unfortunately, it didn't work out. There were some significant wet spots below the surface. As a result I sanded off all of the epoxy. I had a bunch of superglue laying around so I decided to brush that on in layers. I managed to get three coatings on in one day. I've sanded it and it's nearly perfect. So, I'll throw down a couple more layers to even out some low spots. Then I'll hit it once more with black. Then i'll put down one more coat of superglue for protection.
 
Getting close.....
 

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