• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

HELP!! Amp "farting"

#65
B-string said:
I don't believe the coupling losses are that severe from one to six drivers.
Click to expand...

There is some sort of point of diminished returns where you don't get a whole 3db from doubling driver count anymore but I think it's quite a ways past 6 or 8. Yet another thing I read somewhere and can't find a reference to anymore. I really should start writing this stuff down. :)
 
#68
stonewall said:
thats P Bass Thunder lol
Click to expand...

I wish that was the case. lol

Anyways...I took the time to pull the grill off when I got home from work & tested using a 9V battery. All speakers move in/out, and all in the same direction with no damage to them. I then pulled off the control plate on the back & disconnected the lead for the 15". Both 10" speakers are functioning correctly. I then did the same for the 15". It's functioning correctly, too. Both sets break up when heavy on the E string.

I then lowered the pole pieces on the E string & no change. It still breaks up under heavy playing.

I'm going to take it into Long & McQuade on Wednesday & see what they'll give me as a trade value towards that SWR.
 
#69
awilkie84 said:
How does that work? If I'm having to push more wattage to get the Hartke to the same level, does that not make it less efficient? The Hartke needed to be turned up LOUDER to equal the output of the Traynor. If I'm wrong, please feel free to educate me...but it doesn't make sense to me that the more efficient cab would need to be turned up higher to get the same level of performance. That's like having to stomp on the gas in my truck more to reach the same acceleration as my wife's car...and then calling my truck more efficient.
Click to expand...

Hey, you're the one with the farting cab. It's no skin off our collective nose if you don't want to bask in the radiance of the decades of experience represented here.
 
#70
One more thing...

I have not received it yet but I have a bass on order that has that same pickup. They are pretty bass heavy and might require you to run the bass frequencies at a much lower level than you might think. At least that is what my reading seems to indicate. Just something easy and free you can try.

Cheers!

MJW
 
#74
deathsdj said:
One more thing...

I have not received it yet but I have a bass on order that has that same pickup. They are pretty bass heavy and might require you to run the bass frequencies at a much lower level than you might think. At least that is what my reading seems to indicate. Just something easy and free you can try.

Cheers!

MJW
Click to expand...

I am sure this isn't the case, but yeah those QP's are stupid hot. On certain amps I have to run them through the padded input.
 
#75
Your cab is working properly then, it's just the wrong cab for what you're trying to accomplish. You likely get more for it selling it privately than trading it in, but in any case, take your amp and your bass and hook it up to that SWR 610 and see what you think about that one.
 
#76
You will like the SWR 6X10 no doubt! Great cab! You want your trade value out of the old cab though. Did you check for anything loose inside the Trainer? When my kids were little they stuck things in through the ports which created a rattle. Also could be loose bracing you can fix with a screw and some glue. I picked up a 'farty' 4x12 for next to nothing, fixed the bracing, and it sounded good. Sounds better now with new drivers :-)
 
#77
DiabolusInMusic said:
I am sure this isn't the case, but yeah those QP's are stupid hot. On certain amps I have to run them through the padded input.
Click to expand...

This was my thinking from the start, honestly. I don't have experience with the QP's but from reading about them, I understand them to be pretty hot. That's why I mentioned engaging the input pad on the PF. Just because it's a passive bass, doesn't mean it still can't put out a hot signal.

Ultimately, it sounded like the OP playing aggressively on hot pickups is crapping the cab out, or clipping the preamp at the volume levels he wanted to achieve. More speaker would be the answer if he wants more volume. Less volume/gain if he's okay with the cab.
 
#78
I'll go back to my rig. It was farting but both speaker cabs were recently checked out. The cause was a ... well, here's the message he sent me:

Wanted to let you know that the amp is repaired. Broken solder connections on voltage regulators (large transistors) due to the heat that they generate. The problem was recognized by buzzing or "farting" when tapping the ciruit board with a screwdriver or probably when hitting certain notes with your bass or when the drummer vibrated the rig. I could tap on certain components and get noise thru the speakers. I removed the old solder and resoldered the connections, also cleaning the circuit board foil traces (exposing more of the foil) so the there would be a larger solder connection to help dissipate the heat and prevent it from happening again.

I trust this guy completely. A really good friend who was just helping me out. Best to just get it looked at before you go buying and selling new equipment.

Just sayin'.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back