Help me decide…. SBMM or EBMM?

[Tony G]

Is it possible that the grey edges (reverse burst) is actually on purpose? I know Fender has a few finishes like that, but more pronounced. It seems like an odd flaw.

I would be shocked if it was on purpose. You can’t see it really with typical indoor lighting, only outside in bright natural light. I’m sure it is just poor finishing QC from the factory.

 

[Mike Vee]

Really depends. I’ve had three different high-end Ernie Ball stingrays and a Sabre, and I sold each one. Why? Because the more organic Fender w/ flats sound is my main sound and I always feel guilty having a $2000 plus bass around that I only sort of like playing when I am delusional about sounding even a bit like Bernard Edwards, which is the only Stingray tone I care about.

So for me, since I already have about $4000 invested in my jazz and Precision bass, I just decided this week to try out a ray24CA in Toluca Lake blue, 8.5 lbs, nice dark rosewood. I bought a white pickguard to replace that hideout fake tortoise look, some Ernie ball cobalt flats, so I should be in business. I’ll be posting a full review next week once I get it. I am hoping it is good enough to scratch with Stingray itch when I get it, and keep me away from buying yet another full priced EBMM

If the bass is as good as I’m hoping it will be, my suggestion would be to try the Sterling route first. However, if the Stingray will be your main bass and you KNOW you love it, then definitely go for a really nice EBMM.

 

[Mike Vee]

Sorry, I just actually read your post

I say go for the real EB. My personal favorite is the Classic Stingray. The Specials are really nice too, I've owned both, but prefer the vintage aesthetic, 2 band pre, and mutes of the Classic. The 3 band doesn't sound the same, better or worse? You decide.

 

[Bass Ape]

Just go for it and get the USA Ernie Ball MM Stingray or better yet a Special or take it up a notch go with one of their limited edition BFR models. New or used, these models lack the flaws you described. Also, the memory of owning those funds will rapidly erode and playing one will accelerate that process.

They are not at all cheap but they are comparable in quality to a US Made Sadowsy or MTD. I own all three of these brands and I can attest that they are all similar in build quality. However, the EBMM is more competitively priced. That is mainly because the SD and the MTD are meticuously made by hand while the EBMM uses more automation. These are all different animals but I don't find anything lacking with my two Ball Family Reserve models. While the USA EBMMs seem pricey they cost significantly less than most off the shelf boutique basses. They're a good value within the range of off-the-shelf (non custom) boutique basses.

I might be the devil on your left shoulder talking but this is TB by the way so there's that.

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Damn!! I have Slugger envy.

 

[Vanheusen77]

If you just want a fun sound for now and then get the Sterling. If you want it as a main instrument then Stingray Special if you can afford it.

 

[brocco]

Hello Talkbass, it has been a while. Once again I need your wisdom to help me through a difficult decision about which bass to own, lol. I’ve recently been hit with the Stingray bug again, having sold my EBMM Stingray 5H a few years ago, but now missing that tone.

I just purchased a used, like new with plastic wraps still on the pickguard and tuners, a SBMM Ray34 4H, black with rosewood fretboard, roasted maple neck. I got it for a really good price, less than half of retail $ new. It sounds really good for what it is, plays pretty darn well too. Are there many finish flaws? Definitely…. The black painted body when viewed in outdoor natural light almost appears gray around the edges off the bass, either the paint is too thin, or the clear coat is too thick, but indoors it really isn’t noticeable. The back of the neck could have been sanded a tiny bit better, but I feel that is not enough to worry about. Some glue spots here and there from the fret job, but again, I can let this go. The truss rod is really tough to turn with the included tool. I got the bass set up pretty well with good action for finger style, but not crazy about the “slap” action and resulting tone. But again, the finger style tone and playability is pretty great, and I dig the roasted maple neck look.

I say all of the above talking about a bass I paid about $400 for. To clarify, I could afford to buy a used EBMM Stingray or even a new one at the crazy prices they are being sold for these days, if I could justify it. I know I really need to get into a local shop and just try out some Stingray Specials. But the price tag keeps me in check. I’ve had many amazing basses come through my stable over the years, ranging from MTD, Roscoe, F-bass, Bacchus, and still have my beloved Nordy vJ5. I’ve also had a good handful “budget” basses that were really solid, and I still have my G&L Tribute LB100 p-bass that just kills. The point is I can be happy with a budget offering if the quality is there. To further add to the difficult decision making process, I have not been in a band or gigged in about 5 years. I’m in my 40’s now, have kids that keep me very busy, and mostly just play at home to amuse myself and relax, with the rare jam with old friends.

Keeping all the above in mind, Talkbass, what advice would you give me?

Thinking about selling my 2000 SR5 Trans Red flamed maple neck and it is hands down the best playing SR5 I have ever played. Let me know if you are interested.

 

[Smallmouth_Bass]

man-a-live you basically was like "heres the money, now wheres your mouth?" lol

I still have a conscience and do not have unlimited funds! Plus, I have been contemplating downsizing my basses further lately...

 

[JohnnyChatter]

Have you tried loosening the nut and putting some lithium grease on the threads?
The paint job wouldn’t be a deal breaker for me personally. I think it kinda looks cool and I doubt anyone else’s will notice.