Help me decide on a new bass!

[kcwm]

Out of that list I like the MIA jazz best, followed by the classic 50s precision. My off list personal favorite is any crafted in Japan fender instrument.

The seafoam green PJ has been an absolute dog ever time I tried one. Didn't sound like a P or a J even with each pickup soloed, no really good tones available and butt nasty finish color.

I picked up the Seafoam PJ. It played as well as the USA professional jazz and precision they had, though the neck was a felt different because of the gloss. I’ve already gotten used to it after getting it home.

The Seafoam has grown on me and I’ll throw a different pickguard on it to spice it up.

The beautiful thing about not being a “bassist” is I just want it to play and sound good...I’m not beholden to preconceptions or expectations of what a p or j should sound like. Also, having a bass with quarter pounders is that everyone says that they don’t sound like a p-bass, and I think this one sounds better than my bass with quarter pounders.

 

[GreyBeard]

Every bass you listed is a Fender, so you've obviously decided it's going to be a Fender and excluded other brands, which is a good first step, but there's more you have to figure out here...

Next, you have to get a little more organized. Your question is like someone asking advice on buying a new car with random choices. Do I buy a mini van, compact car, mid-size pickup or a luxury sedan? You're all over the place! First figure out what you prefer as far as a Precision or a Jazz sound. If you can't decide or like both maybe consider a P/J set-up. Figuring that out FIRST will narrow down your field quite a bit. After that, figure out what specs you're into. Big frets, small vintage style frets, neck radius preference, fret board material, etc. Who knows, none of those things might matter to you as much as the color of the bass, which is perfectly acceptable since YOU'RE the one who will be playing it. It's all good, but you can't expect us to know what you'll like. Basically everyone who responds is going to tell you what they like, which may or may not be what you end up liking. Last thing I would do is make my decision solely based on what's available to be financed.

But if you really want my advice I'll say this..NEVER buy any music gear on credit, EVEN in this case with the 0% interest for 36 months. Seems like you're just looking for a reason to buy something new, but you don't have the cash upfront to shell out for it. If you don't have the cash to pay for it in full it means you probably don't have the cash in reserve in case something happens like getting into a car accident and having to shell out your deductible, or you're water heater or refrigerator takes a crap on you, or you blow a head gasket in your car, or you need an expensive dental procedure unexpectedly, etc. See where I'm going with this? Sure it's 0% financing, but what happens if one of the above mini-disasters happens to you AND you also have that (albeit) low monthly payment to make as well on that no longer new bass? You may have to sell that bass at a big loss just to come up with some quick cash and guess what? You'll still be making that monthly payment once that bass is long gone. Also, my guess is they will not give you the usual 15% discount that you can always haggle unless you're financing it, and in that case they'll may you pay full retail, which is something you should NEVER do.

Do yourself a favor. Save up some cash and during the time you're saving do more research and go out and play a bunch of basses to figure out more about what you like and don't like and scour Craigslist, Reverb and the Classifieds here on TB. You'll get a much better deal. American Standard P's and J's are readily available for pennies on the dollar for what they cost brand new. The other ones on your list may not pop up as often, but they still do now and then. If you're patient something will come along eventually. The key is to have the cash in hand and be ready to jump on it when the opportunity arises. I recently picked up a MINT, brand new Classic 50's P for $450 just because the buyer, who bought it brand new didn't want it anymore, but was beyond the timeframe to return it. It's an amazing bass. He unreasonably had it listed for $800 (that's what it cost new!), then $600 and still no takers over a few weeks. I offered him $450 and he told me to come get it. It's a buyer's market right now with used gear. Take advantage of it.

^^^^Always save up and pay cash.

 

[kcwm]

I would get an American Fender P/J bass, if not that i voted American Standard P 2nd but it's nice having the extra bridge pickup if you need it..

Fender 2016 Limited Edition American Standard "PJ" Bass 3-Color Sunburst

The guy at GC called two other stores to check the condition of their USA standard p-Basses and they were in similar condition to the one I checked out. Decent dents and scratches.

Bummed me out but helped set me in the direction of the bass I bought. Maybe a trade materializes for a nice American or maybe I keep the deluxe special. I’m getting happier with the purchase.

 

[alaskaleftybass]

Yeah I had someone build mine for me, he didn't charge me much. The warmoth P bass that I own is way better than any US P bass that I have played. The neck on the Warmoth is bigger a little wider than the Fender, but it's very comfortable. The Carvin has a thin neck that feels almost Ibanez-ish.

See I'm exactly opposite. I've been playing Ibanez since the early 80's so I'm very used to a 38mm string nut width. I like light strings, very low action, and a thin neck. I play lightly and don't dig in much. So I've been thinking an Ibby style P bass by Warmoth. I've also been wanting active 3 band EQ lately so I was considering a Warmoth G style body, narrow 2 x 2 neck, P bass pickup and active electronics with stacked tone controls so there would still only be two knobs like a P bass. I'm going to inquire if Kiesel can do that.

 

[kcwm]

I knew I couldn't be the first one to suggest it but a pro setup on your squier was my first thought. Unless there are serious defects it should setup really well if you've got a tech that's good at fretwork. You could even upgrade the bridge at the same time, it would still be cheaper than a new bass. If you want a second as a backup I voted for the PJ special. Its a jazz bass neck with a versatile PU configuration.

I trust my tech but I don’t want to drop another $200 or whatever he charges for a refret. If I ever sell it, I’d never recoup that. It’s already going to be hard to recoup what I sunk into upgrading the pickups and bridge. It’s a solid beginner to lower intermediate bass. I feel like I’ve moved past that.

I am content with the bass I bought, but I’m not 100% happy with it. I might be...it’s very rare that I immediately bond with a guitar or bass. In fact, it’s happened once out of the way too many instruments I’ve owned.

 

[kcwm]

I would get an American Fender P/J bass, if not that i voted American Standard P 2nd but it's nice having the extra bridge pickup if you need it..

Fender 2016 Limited Edition American Standard "PJ" Bass 3-Color Sunburst

I’d love to trade this PRS S2 SC250 for an American PJ. We shall see...I have 45 days to return the bass to GC in the event I find something that suits my fancy more.

 

[Reedt2000]

I trust my tech but I don’t want to drop another $200 or whatever he charges for a refret. If I ever sell it, I’d never recoup that. It’s already going to be hard to recoup what I sunk into upgrading the pickups and bridge. It’s a solid beginner to lower intermediate bass. I feel like I’ve moved past that.

I am content with the bass I bought, but I’m not 100% happy with it. I might be...it’s very rare that I immediately bond with a guitar or bass. In fact, it’s happened once out of the way too many instruments I’ve owned.

I doubt it would need a refret, most likely a fret level, it's something that is skipped to keep costs down from the factory. I get it, you probably wouldn't see the invest back if you sell it, no matter how awesome it may play or sound it will still be a squier. There is a whole world of basses out there, it would probably be worth taking time and exploring all your options. I'm partial to warwicks but I just got an import G&L that is really nice for the price.

 

[kcwm]

I doubt it would need a refret, most likely a fret level, it's something that is skipped to keep costs down from the factory. I get it, you probably wouldn't see the invest back if you sell it, no matter how awesome it may play or sound it will still be a squier. There is a whole world of basses out there, it would probably be worth taking time and exploring all your options. I'm partial to warwicks but I just got an import G&L that is really nice for the price.

Ah, yeah, he’s done that. I had it gone over when he did the initial setup.

If it doesn’t sell, then it’s a great backup. If it does, then it’s served me well.

 

[crucislancer]

I picked up the Seafoam PJ. It played as well as the USA professional jazz and precision they had, though the neck was a felt different because of the gloss. I’ve already gotten used to it after getting it home.

The Seafoam has grown on me and I’ll throw a different pickguard on it to spice it up.

The beautiful thing about not being a “bassist” is I just want it to play and sound good...I’m not beholden to preconceptions or expectations of what a p or j should sound like. Also, having a bass with quarter pounders is that everyone says that they don’t sound like a p-bass, and I think this one sounds better than my bass with quarter pounders.

I think you made a great choice. Yes, it doesn't really sound exactly like a P or a J, but it will get you close to both, and with both pickups up full you have a different tone to play with. I've had mine for almost a year, and it's really a fantastic bass. I usually run the P pickup full on, J pickup backed off a touch, and tone backed off by half. Thunderous!

 

[bordinco90]

See I'm exactly opposite. I've been playing Ibanez since the early 80's so I'm very used to a 38mm string nut width. I like light strings, very low action, and a thin neck. I play lightly and don't dig in much. So I've been thinking an Ibby style P bass by Warmoth. I've also been wanting active 3 band EQ lately so I was considering a Warmoth G style body, narrow 2 x 2 neck, P bass pickup and active electronics with stacked tone controls so there would still only be two knobs like a P bass. I'm going to inquire if Kiesel can do that.

I'm sure Carvin can do whatever you want them to do. Some of the stuff that you want on your bass may be considered (Option 50) meaning that you cannot return it.

 

[InhumanResource]

I picked up the Seafoam PJ. It played as well as the USA professional jazz and precision they had, though the neck was a felt different because of the gloss. I’ve already gotten used to it after getting it home.

The Seafoam has grown on me and I’ll throw a different pickguard on it to spice it up.

The beautiful thing about not being a “bassist” is I just want it to play and sound good...I’m not beholden to preconceptions or expectations of what a p or j should sound like. Also, having a bass with quarter pounders is that everyone says that they don’t sound like a p-bass, and I think this one sounds better than my bass with quarter pounders.

I'm glad you like it and it works for you, but I wasn't able to get a usable tone out of it.

 

[jnslprd]

I doubt it would need a refret, most likely a fret level, it's something that is skipped to keep costs down from the factory. I get it, you probably wouldn't see the invest back if you sell it, no matter how awesome it may play or sound it will still be a squier. There is a whole world of basses out there, it would probably be worth taking time and exploring all your options. I'm partial to warwicks but I just got an import G&L that is really nice for the price.

I have both a squier P bass and a G&L L2000 Tribute and to be honest the G&L is by far the cheaper feeling of the 2. Resale value is about the same on both except the G&L cost almost $800 with tax when new as opposed to $400 for the squier.

 

[kcwm]

I'm glad you like it and it works for you, but I wasn't able to get a usable tone out of it.

So that brings up a question for me, which might be better suited to its own thread, and could likely be covered with a search, BUT....

What defines a "usable tone" to you? Although I can "play" bass and I feel like my bass lines have been coming out more like bass parts instead of sub-octave guitar parts, I'm still new to the world of bass, what defines what, and what other people like. I played on a Peavey Max 115 II at the store and on my Fender Rumble 100 at home and felt like it sounded good on the Peavey and better/fuller on the Fender, and that makes me curious what you mean when you say usable tone.

 

[kcwm]

I think you made a great choice. Yes, it doesn't really sound exactly like a P or a J, but it will get you close to both, and with both pickups up full you have a different tone to play with. I've had mine for almost a year, and it's really a fantastic bass. I usually run the P pickup full on, J pickup backed off a touch, and tone backed off by half. Thunderous!

The only thing that would send it back at this point would be if I can work out a trade for a nice USA bass for the PRS S2 I'm selling. I did look into replacement pickguards for it, but any of the deluxe pickguards with 4 holes didn't match up screw-wise. I'm not sure I want to pay for a custom cut pickguard.

 

[Paulabass]

So that brings up a question for me, which might be better suited to its own thread, and could likely be covered with a search, BUT....

What defines a "usable tone" to you? Although I can "play" bass and I feel like my bass lines have been coming out more like bass parts instead of sub-octave guitar parts, I'm still new to the world of bass, what defines what, and what other people like. I played on a Peavey Max 115 II at the store and on my Fender Rumble 100 at home and felt like it sounded good on the Peavey and better/fuller on the Fender, and that makes me curious what you mean when you say usable tone.

First of all, congrats on writing bass lines, as apposed to sounding like a guitarist. That is a HUGE hurdle. A lot of bassists start on guitar, or are guitarists doubling on bass, and it's tough to assume a role in the rhythm section.
Usable tone is just a tone you like. As a guideline, an even tone, with nice lows, and super lows, a midrange the drummer can easily lock onto, and just enough cut in the mid highs, and highs for some definition, without sounding clanky, and metallic. For fun, listen to Chris Squire, and then James Jamerson. There could not be more contrast between tones, but both are equally 'usable'. Good luck.
Edit: If a guitarist, the guy at the bar, my mother...compliments or disses my tone, I don't care. If the drummer says my tone is just right for locking up his right foot, THAT is a compliment. I usually play in situations the FOH person has more control over my tone that I do. The audience can't hear my on stage sound, so I'm playing for me, and the drummer.

 

[kcwm]

First of all, congrats on writing bass lines, as apposed to sounding like a guitarist. That is a HUGE hurdle. A lot of bassists start on guitar, or are guitarists doubling on bass, and it's tough to assume a role in the rhythm section.
Usable tone is just a tone you like. As a guideline, an even tone, with nice lows, and super lows, a midrange the drummer can easily lock onto, and just enough cut in the mid highs, and highs for some definition, without sounding clanky, and metallic. For fun, listen to Chris Squire, and then James Jamerson. There could not be more contrast between tones, but both are equally 'usable'. Good luck.

Re: writing bass lines

I think my issue is that for many years, I've kind of rooted my songwriting in having a rhythm guitar chugging away on chords or power chords, a second guitar part that moves quite a bit on top if it, and fitting the bass somewhere in there. The last couple of songs I've sat down to write, I've let the bass take over the role that the second guitar line has traditionally filled for me. It's resulted in something that is less immediately definable as "me" but still feels like something I'd write, if that makes any sense at all.

 

[InhumanResource]

So that brings up a question for me, which might be better suited to its own thread, and could likely be covered with a search, BUT....

What defines a "usable tone" to you? Although I can "play" bass and I feel like my bass lines have been coming out more like bass parts instead of sub-octave guitar parts, I'm still new to the world of bass, what defines what, and what other people like. I played on a Peavey Max 115 II at the store and on my Fender Rumble 100 at home and felt like it sounded good on the Peavey and better/fuller on the Fender, and that makes me curious what you mean when you say usable tone.

Sure!

I suppose the first stop is that I have to like it or at least like something about it. If I can't make it sound a way that I like, it'll annoy me on stage and I won't play well. Totally subjective, yes, but it's important.

On a more objective level, I expect it out to behave certain ways when I do certain things with the controls. When I hit the gas pedal on my car it is expected to move.

On this bass, when I soloed the bridge pickup to check it out, I didn't get what I expected. I got a weird "boxy" sort of sound that had way too much response in the 500-ish Hz range. Not the burpy jazz bass sound at all. This is with the amp set flat. Similar problem with the split coil soloed, didn't sound how I expect (like a P bass). I'm not looking for that hi Fi sizzle, as that pretty much screws you in a band mix, but I do know what a good solid fender bass sound is and can dial one up pretty closely before sound check starts. I didn't get that sound from this bass. All this can probably be overcome with mods, but I don't go into a bad at this price range with the plan of tearing pieces out and buying new ones.

It would be one thing if the neck felt awesome and was a "had to have it" piece that made electronics upgrades worthwhile, but I found it average in that respect. It wasn't uncomfortable or anything, just not standout.

Anyway, I hope that explains my impression of this instrument. It just didn't have the gutsy precisionesque low mid grunt or the growling, jazz bass bridge pickup sound either. The sum of the two pickups was not anything like the PJ I have at home. It was just a weird bass to me and based on my time playing around with it, I wouldn't be confident in getting a good sound with it on stage.

 

[kcwm]

Sure!

I suppose the first stop is that I have to like it or at least like something about it. If I can't make it sound a way that I like, it'll annoy me on stage and I won't play well. Totally subjective, yes, but it's important.

On a more objective level, I expect it out to behave certain ways when I do certain things with the controls. When I hit the gas pedal on my car it is expected to move.

On this bass, when I soloed the bridge pickup to check it out...

That's actually a really great response.

What you describe is kind of how I feel about stratocasters, so I definitely understand that.

I can understand you on the neck. It's not what I expected going into it and I initially had my doubts after playing the American Standard GC had in store. After I decided against the American Standard based on the body condition of it and the ones at two other stores, I gave the PJ more time and eventually I adjusted to the feeling of the neck. That doesn't mean I'd be against using steel wool or whatever that technique is on the neck, but the more I play it, the more I get used to it.

Time will tell. Thanks for the response!

 

[InhumanResource]

That's actually a really great response.

What you describe is kind of how I feel about stratocasters, so I definitely understand that.

I can understand you on the neck. It's not what I expected going into it and I initially had my doubts after playing the American Standard GC had in store. After I decided against the American Standard based on the body condition of it and the ones at two other stores, I gave the PJ more time and eventually I adjusted to the feeling of the neck. That doesn't mean I'd be against using steel wool or whatever that technique is on the neck, but the more I play it, the more I get used to it.

Time will tell. Thanks for the response!

Anytime. Something I noticed regarding your own experience is that the Rumble amps are voiced with a pretty healthy bottom end response that sounds nice and "thumpy" or whatever adjective you like. A lot more than most other amps, though I have no experience with the exact Peavey you mentioned. It's actually pretty pleasant in the demo room, I'm curious if it sounds good in a full mix. My impression is that it is riiiight on the hairy edge of mud inducing in a live mix, but on its own sounds really nice and fat.

Anyway that might be part of why you perceived the sounds differently. Those rumbles have a lot of booty.

 

[kcwm]

Anytime. Something I noticed regarding your own experience is that the Rumble amps are voiced with a pretty healthy bottom end response that sounds nice and "thumpy" or whatever adjective you like. A lot more than most other amps, though I have no experience with the exact Peavey you mentioned. It's actually pretty pleasant in the demo room, I'm curious if it sounds good in a full mix. My impression is that it is riiiight on the hairy edge of mud inducing in a live mix, but on its own sounds really nice and fat.

Anyway that might be part of why you perceived the sounds differently. Those rumbles have a lot of booty.

I only picked it up because a friend had one and it has an XLR out for recording. I will likely never have the opportunity to play in a live setting, but when I do play in the room, I do notice the bottom end of it. I tried setting it at 3 and 4 o'clock like I've seen suggestions and it's just too boomy, at least I think that's the word.

The Peavey amp was one they had sitting next to the basses. It was easily accessible and there were other people on the other two "sides" of the bass amp square that the particular GC had going, otherwise, I'd have tried it on something a little nicer.