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Help Me Grasp The Volume Pedal Thing

Before I set a board up............

Ok, so if I'm running a volume pedal first in a pedal chain with single coil passive pups on the instrument, I would use one with a 250K pot. If the volume pedal is placed after any pedals, I would need a 25K pot.

If I'm correct on both counts, then that 25K pot in the volume pedal that is suited to active signals will need to be a no load pot and left in the toe down position if all pedals before it in the chain are true bypass and all are off, Correct ?

If I'm correct on that third count, then I would need a volume pedal with a 25K/no load pot and one with a 250k/no load pot sitting side by side in order to always have the correct pot at work when using a volume pedal. The reason I believe this, is because a pot should always be the right one for the signal it's fed. Going by all I've read anyhow.

Please correct me if I'm wrong here.
 
The first part sounds about right, the second with its no-load pots is getting complicated for me. Thats probably ideal, but might not be realistic. Someone else is going to have to comment on the effect of the 25k pot on one's passive tone when the pedal is and isn't in use... I assume that its going to have an impact, but I'm not sure how much of an impact it'd have, or if its worth worying about to cover every possible scenario of volume pedal use.

The third part is again probably ideal, but not practical. You would probably be better off getting a buffer, or pedal to leave on an keeping a 25k volume pedal after it. It should be smaller, easier, and possibly cheaper.
 
The first part sounds about right, the second with its no-load pots is getting complicated for me. Thats probably ideal, but might not be realistic. Someone else is going to have to comment on the effect of the 25k pot on one's passive tone when the pedal is and isn't in use...

The third part is again probably ideal, but not practical. You would probably be better off getting a buffer, or pedal to leave on an keeping a 25k volume pedal after it. It should be smaller, easier, and possibly cheaper.
Hi jucas,
The no load pots seem the best choice if a vp is sitting idle. Sort of like true bypass.

Good points about the cons of 2 vp's, but then you give up the option of a passive signal to the amp.
 
IMHO, it's never a good idea to build a board without at least one buffer in the beginning. You'll lose some highs because of the longer cable run. Plus, it would negate the need to use two EBVPs. You could also get an active volume pedal instead. The Visual Sound Visual Volume pedal works equally well with actives and passives, as does the Morley. If you're really worried about the volume pedal sucking some of your tone, get a Goodrich or Hilton volume pedal (but expect to spend a lot for the quality!). ;)
 
IMHO, it's never a good idea to build a board without at least one buffer in the beginning. You'll lose some highs because of the longer cable run. Plus, it would negate the need to use two EBVPs. You could also get an active volume pedal instead. The Visual Sound Visual Volume pedal works equally well with actives and passives, as does the Morley. If you're really worried about the volume pedal sucking some of your tone, get a Goodrich or Hilton volume pedal (but expect to spend a lot for the quality!). ;)

Agreed.

A passive bass followed by a bunch of TB pedals and then into a passive volume pedal will often result in some high frequency loss. If you're the type who is paranoid about signal integrity, at the very least put a buffer early in that chain! The active volume option is also a good one- I'm a paranoid tone guy & use a Visual Volume. In buffered mode, it has passed the test, for me, in the studio....
 
From the EB site

Q: When would I use an active (25k) pedal as opposed to a 250k/500k "passive" pedal, and why?
A: Passive vs. Active: Whenever there is a passive signal leading into an EB pedal, the 250K or 500K pedal is recommended (mono VP & VPJR 250K and stereo 500K VP pedals available). Whenever there is an active signal (powered preamp in the instrument, effects loop, etc.) leading into an EB pedal, the 25K pot is recommended (stereo VP and mono VPJR pedals available). If an active signal is placed before a 250K or 500K EB pedal, or if a passive signal is placed before a 25K EB pedal, then the consequence may be that the swell of the pedal does not act as designed. Either way, as stated above, try whatever combination you desire, and determine if it works for you. All of our volume pedals are designed to be as transparent as possible in a signal chain. However, whenever you add any component to a signal chain, the signal will change whether it is audible or not
http://www.ernieball.com/faq/7-Ernie-Ball-Volume-Pedals-FAQ#89
 
The point of the "active" pedals with the 25K pot is related to the output impedance of an active instrument. What's the output impedance of your stomp boxes? If they're in the same range as a passive bass, then go for the 250K/500K passive pedal. Just because it's going through a pedal doesn't mean the signal's impedance is the same as an unaffected active bass'.

My experience is that a passive EB volume pedal works fine for a Stratocaster guitar after a Boss compressor, Vox wha, a Reverend overdrive, and a Boss Chorus.

John
 
IMHO, it's never a good idea to build a board without at least one buffer in the beginning. You'll lose some highs because of the longer cable run. Plus, it would negate the need to use two EBVPs. You could also get an active volume pedal instead. The Visual Sound Visual Volume pedal works equally well with actives and passives, as does the Morley. If you're really worried about the volume pedal sucking some of your tone, get a Goodrich or Hilton volume pedal (but expect to spend a lot for the quality!). ;)

Agreed.

A passive bass followed by a bunch of TB pedals and then into a passive volume pedal will often result in some high frequency loss. If you're the type who is paranoid about signal integrity, at the very least put a buffer early in that chain! The active volume option is also a good one- I'm a paranoid tone guy & use a Visual Volume. In buffered mode, it has passed the test, for me, in the studio....

The point of the "active" pedals with the 25K pot is related to the output impedance of an active instrument. What's the output impedance of your stomp boxes? If they're in the same range as a passive bass, then go for the 250K/500K passive pedal. Just because it's going through a pedal doesn't mean the signal's impedance is the same as an unaffected active bass'.

My experience is that a passive EB volume pedal works fine for a Stratocaster guitar after a Boss compressor, Vox wha, a Reverend overdrive, and a Boss Chorus.

John

Ok, Thanks for taking time to answer guys. I was assuming any signal coming out of any pedal turned on would be an active one.

Mutt, scotch, I wasn't thinking of highs loss, just concerned about the optimal match for doing swells. But your point is a valid concern.

John, I actually have 3 vp's, an EB jr w/the 25K pot, and two older generic ones w/scatchy pots. I'll just put new 250K pots in those and then try them all and see what works best.

I didn't check all, but one of the pedals has an output impedance of 100 ohms.