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Help me, new member with amp and cab questions.

What city/state area are you in? We will help with shopping things.
Around springfield missouri, I would like to get a cab that can put out good high and mid range but also crank out some quaking bass when I turn up the bass frequencys, because I play alot of different genres, from pantera to primus to jamiroquai so I need something flexible. I was thinking like a stack of 2 410s or a 410 and a 115 like what I have now and the laney stack I was looking at, but yall know what your talking about more than I do so I would like some recommendations.
 
Just get this.

Screenshot 2025-11-05 at 2.11.24 PM.png
 
Around springfield missouri,

Red,

In the central southern Illinois area there's for sale:

Gallien-Krueger MB500 class D bass head, 350 watts at 8 ohms, 500 watts at 4 ohms, xlr out, ect., with a computer style carry bag, near mint condition.

Bergantino CN212 bass cabinet, 4 ohm, 750 watt cap., with Berg Padded cover, very good condition.

Head/Cab, $800.00 (firm price, no shipping.) Can be picked-up in the Effingham, Il. area.

This would make for a great, loud, pro level rig.

If you think you might be interested send me a PM and I'll get the contact information to you.
 
Red,

In the central southern Illinois area there's for sale:

Gallien-Krueger MB500 class D bass head, 350 watts at 8 ohms, 500 watts at 4 ohms, xlr out, ect., with a computer style carry bag, near mint condition.

Bergantino CN212 bass cabinet, 4 ohm, 750 watt cap., with Berg Padded cover, very good condition.

Head/Cab, $800.00 (firm price, no shipping.) Can be picked-up in the Effingham, Il. area.

This would make for a great, loud, pro level rig.

If you think you might be interested send me a PM and I'll get the contact information to you.
Also a good deal.
 
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Originally the 410 had 3 8ohms and 1 4ohm, I have no idea what the original ohms were, probably like 5-6 ohms, but I just plugged in the amp and played, which is probably why the speakers were blown. I replaced 3 of the speakers and left the 1 4ohm that wasn't blown and that's why 1 doesn't match the others.
Well, here's the root of your problem. Originally, that cabinet had 4 ohm LF drivers wired in series-parallel for 4 ohms total load. It NEVER had 3 x 8 ohm and 1 x 4 ohm drivers. That's not going to work well no matter how you wire it.

They are 8ohms each, can be put together to get 4ohms and are rated 750w max, which probably when combined could easily take like 350w rms.
There is no way possible for 4 x 8 ohm drivers to be combined for a 4 ohm total load. It's mathematically impossible.

There is no 10" driver on this planet suitable for bass guitar that's rated for 750 watts RMS.

Your knowledge of speakers (and electronics) is sorely lacking, all the guessing is going to get you is more problems and maybe a damaged amp.

I hope you aren't intentionally trolling us here.
 
Well, here's the root of your problem. Originally, that cabinet had 4 ohm LF drivers wired in series-parallel for 4 ohms total load. It NEVER had 3 x 8 ohm and 1 x 4 ohm drivers. That's not going to work well no matter how you wire it.


There is no way possible for 4 x 8 ohm drivers to be combined for a 4 ohm total load. It's mathematically impossible.

There is no 10" driver on this planet suitable for bass guitar that's rated for 750 watts RMS.

Your knowledge of speakers (and electronics) is sorely lacking, all the guessing is going to get you is more problems and maybe a damaged amp.

I hope you aren't intentionally trolling us here.
First, I have no idea what was originally in the cab when it came from the factory (the previous owner was obviously an idiot because he had put 3 8s and 1 4ohm) or what the original ohms were when I bought it, but I it isn't at 4 ohms like it says on the back, I rewired it (with help from a professional sound engineer) to 8 ohms to match my amp. Second, on the photo of the back of cab it says 350w rms and 750w max if you can read, which changed because the replacement speakers have slightly more watts rms than the originals. I also intentionally said that I have only been playing for under a year so I am practically a baby in the world of sound tech.
 
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Slightly out of my buget for just 1 cab, and still to far away for me.
You do understand that isn't just a cab, yeah? It's a 500 watt combo unit. As in combination amplifier and cabinet. And it's got 4 ten inch driver's. That's capable of putting out some serious volume at less than the cost of the Laney cabs you're looking at. If that's not enough, your probably not gonna find what you think you want in your budget. Best of luck with your search.
 
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I have been looking on fb marketplace and found some better cab options like these:
image000000(37).jpg

Laney 2x10 which could work with just the 4x10 from the other laney stack I showed earlier, and would be good on my budget.
image000001(15).jpg

Found this on marketplace which would be great on my budget, but I can't find a replacement speaker for the one missing (would be nice if someone on here knew of one for sale).

And for amps I found behringer bx3000t for $159 on gc's website which I like alot because of the options on it and it's cheap. Another slightly more expensive option would be a peavey firebass 700 for $269 which I like because it's peavey so you cant go wrong, but I like the behringer slightly better.

What should I do?
 
You do understand that isn't just a cab, yeah? It's a 500 watt combo unit. As in combination amplifier and cabinet. And it's got 4 ten inch driver's. That's capable of putting out some serious volume at less than the cost of the Laney cabs you're looking at. If that's not enough, your probably not gonna find what you think you want in your budget. Best of luck with your search.
My bad I didn't see that it was a combo and also just to me it's badass to have a stack that's almost as tall as you are but that's just me.
 
My bad I didn't see that it was a combo and also just to me it's badass to have a stack that's almost as tall as you are but that's just me.
I mean, yeah... For larger gigs I use a Bassman 800 and two 4x10 cabs, but that rig is rarely required. But most of the combo amps that have been floated to you in this thread can take an extension cab to give you the stack vibe/aesthetic. Not positive on the GK's extension cab capability, but I know the Fender and Ampeg units can take a second cab. More importantly, you can spend some coin now and get something that will absolutely work for your situation that can be expanded later when you have more cash, OR.... Lose money on something that may or may not work for you, may or may not work at all, and has zero resale value. You asked for advice. There's mine. Good luck.
 
I mean, yeah... For larger gigs I use a Bassman 800 and two 4x10 cabs, but that rig is rarely required. But most of the combo amps that have been floated to you in this thread can take an extension cab to give you the stack vibe/aesthetic. Not positive on the GK's extension cab capability, but I know the Fender and Ampeg units can take a second cab. More importantly, you can spend some coin now and get something that will absolutely work for your situation that can be expanded later when you have more cash, OR.... Lose money on something that may or may not work for you, may or may not work at all, and has zero resale value. You asked for advice. There's mine. Good luck.
I get what your saying with the combo and extension cab, but im not a big fan of big combo amps, mostly because all the big combo amps I've seen have gone for alot for not very much actual cab size, which I got the whole setup I have now for less than half of a used and broken rumble 500 I saw sell for and for what I need, it's either all out or barely in in terms of output, you also can't beat the reliability of the older stuff, especially peavey gear, which for me is essential because this stuff is going to get pretty beat with me owning it.
 
First, I have no idea what was originally in the cab when it came from the factory (the previous owner was obviously an idiot because he had put 3 8s and 1 4ohm) or what the original ohms were when I bought it, but I it isn't at 4 ohms like it says on the back, I rewired it (with help from a professional sound engineer) to 8 ohms to match my amp. Second, on the photo of the back of cab it says 350w rms and 750w max if you can read, which changed because the replacement speakers have slightly more watts rms than the originals. I also intentionally said that I have only been playing for under a year so I am practically a baby in the world of sound tech.
First of all like "agedhorse" said, there is absolutely no way to wire up three 8 ohm speakers and one 4 ohm speaker and come up with an 8 ohm load. Again, it is mathematically impossible.
That cabinet originally had four 4 ohm speakers in it because I used to own one. In it original configuration and original speakers, you would have been fairly happy with it's output with a good amp to go with it.
Perhaps a Warwick Gnome Pro 600 at Guitar Center for $349.99 plus tax and shipping would get you started. Here's a link:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
First of all like "agedhorse" said, there is absolutely no way to wire up three 8 ohm speakers and one 4 ohm speaker and come up with an 8 ohm load. Again, it is mathematically impossible.
That cabinet originally had four 4 ohm speakers in it because I used to own one. In it original configuration and original speakers, you would have been fairly happy with it's output with a good amp to go with it.
Perhaps a Warwick Gnome Pro 600 at Guitar Center for $349.99 plus tax and shipping would get you started. Here's a link:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Yeah, I said I didn't know what the ohm load was with 3 8s and 1 4ohm (im guessing it was probably at 6ohms when i first bought it), because when I bought it I knew nothing of amps and cabs and just plugged it in and played, which is probably why 3 of the speakers were blown and I had to replace them and NOW, not when I first bought it, but NOW it has FOUR 8S wired to make 8 OHMS not 4ohms.

That amp is pushing my budget pretty hard and it's either a really good, expensive amp and cheap cabs OR a cheap used amp from gc and good cabs. Also I'm not a fan of the tiny class d style amps because they look harder to service than a bigger amp with open internals, which is nice and for me bigger is better ;)
 
First, I have no idea what was originally in the cab when it came from the factory (the previous owner was obviously an idiot because he had put 3 8s and 1 4ohm) or what the original ohms were when I bought it, but I it isn't at 4 ohms like it says on the back, I rewired it (with help from a professional sound engineer) to 8 ohms to match my amp. Second, on the photo of the back of cab it says 350w rms and 750w max if you can read, which changed because the replacement speakers have slightly more watts rms than the originals. I also intentionally said that I have only been playing for under a year so I am practically a baby in the world of sound tech.
The 750 watt number is meaningless for any real discussion. It may have decreased because in bass speakers, the mechanical power handling is DIFFERENT from the thermal power handling. You just haven't learned this yet.

In your initial post, you did not mention that you replaced ALL of the speakers in the cabinet. What exactly did you replace them with? (this matters)

If you are a new player with little to no experience in the technical world, then may I suggest that you listen more to the advice you are receiving and argue less about what you think you know. You will be farther ahead for sure.

Yeah, I said I didn't know what the ohm load was with 3 8s and 1 4ohm (im guessing it was probably at 6ohms when i first bought it), because when I bought it I knew nothing of amps and cabs and just plugged it in and played, which is probably why 3 of the speakers were blown and I had to replace them and NOW, not when I first bought it, but NOW it has FOUR 8S wired to make 8 OHMS not 4ohms.

That amp is pushing my budget pretty hard and it's either a really good, expensive amp and cheap cabs OR a cheap used amp from gc and good cabs. Also I'm not a fan of the tiny class d style amps because they look harder to service than a bigger amp with open internals, which is nice and for me bigger is better ;)
You can't possibly know what the impedance was because there are several ways to wire the cabinet internally, and they will all result in different numbers.

Did you buy 3 speakers or 4 speakers? Are they all the same (I mean IDENTICAL)?

Some class D amps are more reliable and easier to service than bigger, older amps. Since you are a technical newbie, I don't think you need to (or will be able to) service ANY amp, so it really doesn't matter as long as you have access to a QUALIFIED service tech.
 
Yeah, I said I didn't know what the ohm load was with 3 8s and 1 4ohm (im guessing it was probably at 6ohms when i first bought it), because when I bought it I knew nothing of amps and cabs and just plugged it in and played, which is probably why 3 of the speakers were blown and I had to replace them and NOW, not when I first bought it, but NOW it has FOUR 8S wired to make 8 OHMS not 4ohms.

That amp is pushing my budget pretty hard and it's either a really good, expensive amp and cheap cabs OR a cheap used amp from gc and good cabs. Also I'm not a fan of the tiny class d style amps because they look harder to service than a bigger amp with open internals, which is nice and for me bigger is better ;)
One other thing to consider if you're planning on buying an older amp thst isn't the newer Class D and that's available repair parts. "Agedhorse" is an engineer and Amp Designer for Mesa and he will confirm this is an ongoing problem with older amps.
 
The 750 watt number is meaningless for any real discussion. It may have decreased because in bass speakers, the mechanical power handling is DIFFERENT from the thermal power handling. You just haven't learned this yet.

In your initial post, you did not mention that you replaced ALL of the speakers in the cabinet. What exactly did you replace them with? (this matters)

If you are a new player with little to no experience in the technical world, then may I suggest that you listen more to the advice you are receiving and argue less about what you think you know. You will be farther ahead for sure.


You can't possibly know what the impedance was because there are several ways to wire the cabinet internally, and they will all result in different numbers.

Did you buy 3 speakers or 4 speakers? Are they all the same (I mean IDENTICAL)?

Some class D amps are more reliable and easier to service than bigger, older amps. Since you are a technical newbie, I don't think you need to (or will be able to) service ANY amp, so it really doesn't matter as long as you have access to a QUALIFIED service tech.
I think your lost because I didn't say anything about replacing all the speakers. I replaced 3 of the blown ones with 3 identical speakers that my dads sound engineer friend that built sound systems for a living said it would be fine for what I'm using it for, the only speaker I didn't replace was the 1 good 8 ohm that was left because at the time I didn't have the money to buy all 4 replacements which I will do sooner then later, but at the moment their are 3 identical speakers and 1 (not matching in design but very close in specs) peavey speaker.

Yes I get what your saying about servicing class d amps can be easier but would probably be harder for a noob like me, but the only "service" I would do would be to replace capacitors and clean pots.

Also I haven't argued once, I've questioned what has been said to evoke more evidence for a concluding answer.

Also what do you mean by this?
"You can't possibly know what the impedance was because there are several ways to wire the cabinet internally, and they will all result in different numbers."
Do you mean the original wiring with 3 8s and a 4ohm or the new wiring with all 8ohms?