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Help please with stripped nut? On Squier CV 60's P bass

tubestuff

tubestuff

Guest
Aug 14, 2013
214
165
San Pedro, CA
#1
Just purchased this on Reverb from a guy "As is" but he didn't mention the stripped nut, so my bad.

Anyhoo, never tried fixing one so any help is appreciated. I not only want to enjoy the supposed goodness of these necks but also to tell the seller to suck eggs... with a smile.

I have a set of the Screw Out screw removal tools bot the OD of their shafts is larger than the ID of the truss rod access hole.

I may have to order a Stewmac "Gripper Truss rod Wrench" but I can't find the correct nut size for a 60's CV P Bass neck so I can try to fab my own Gripper or buy the appropriate size from SM.

Anyone know the correct hex size for a Chinese CV?

Any tips, tricks, kluges or otherwise is greatly appreciated from this August community.
The access hole is a LOT deeper than what I'm used to but this is my first "P" bass so... ?

Do the terrible pics I attached show what I'm describing? I don't have any frame of reference so I can't tell.

ANYTHING is appreciated,

Thanks!
IMG_20171114_110337_resized_20171114_110525963.jpg

 

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#5
Mktrat said:
@Bruce Johnson

Got any ideas?
Click to expand...

Yep, it's stripped out.

The real question is, what condition is the neck in overall? Does it have some kind of a serious bow, and need some truss rod cranking? Unfortunately, in most cases where you see a stripped out or broken truss rod, the root cause is a bowed neck. That's why someone overloaded it and damaged it.

If the neck is reasonably straight, leave the truss rod alone. Level the frets if necessary.

If you need to make a small adjustment with the truss rod, you may be able to jam a square bit or a Torx bit or something in there, and get it to turn a little bit. It won't fix the truss rod; in fact it will make the stripped out socket worse. But it may make the neck playable.

Otherwise, you're going to have to fix it, which will require some surgery. On that style of truss rod, I believe, the nut can be unscrewed from the rod and replaced. But to get the nut out, you have to extract that sleeve, the dark colored ring.
 
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#6
Bruce Johnson said:
Yep, it's stripped out.

The real question is, what condition is the neck in overall? Does it have some kind of a serious bow, and need some truss rod cranking? Unfortunately, in most cases where you see a stripped out or broken truss rod, the root cause is a bowed neck. That's why someone overloaded it and damaged it.

If the neck is reasonably straight, leave the truss rod alone. Level the frets if necessary.

If you need to make a small adjustment with the truss rod, you may be able to jam a square bit or a Torx bit or something in there, and get it to turn a little bit. It won't fix the truss rod; in fact it will make the stripped out socket worse. But it may make the neck playable.

Otherwise, you're going to have to fix it, which will require some surgery. On that style of truss rod, I believe, the nut can be unscrewed from the rod and replaced. But to get the nut out, you have to extract that sleeve, the dark colored ring.
Click to expand...
Thanks Bruce,
The neck is "playable" but could be better. Truss rod is probably fine.

This started because I went to loosen the truss rod due to slight back bow to lower the relief to within spec.
Now it's just a personal quest.

I found that the correct hex size is 4mm so I'm going to taper grind down a 5mm to
mimic the SM tool and if that doesn't work Amazon has some small dia. screw removal tools for around $10 I'll try.

Thanks for the Torx idea. I think I have some of those somewhere...

If I get lucky, does Fender sell replacement nuts?

Thanks!

Edit: h/t Fender customer service supplied the correct nut part no:
0079848000
 
Last edited:
#7
Bruce Johnson said:
Yep, it's stripped out.

The real question is, what condition is the neck in overall? Does it have some kind of a serious bow, and need some truss rod cranking? Unfortunately, in most cases where you see a stripped out or broken truss rod, the root cause is a bowed neck. That's why someone overloaded it and damaged it.

If the neck is reasonably straight, leave the truss rod alone. Level the frets if necessary.

If you need to make a small adjustment with the truss rod, you may be able to jam a square bit or a Torx bit or something in there, and get it to turn a little bit. It won't fix the truss rod; in fact it will make the stripped out socket worse. But it may make the neck playable.

Otherwise, you're going to have to fix it, which will require some surgery. On that style of truss rod, I believe, the nut can be unscrewed from the rod and replaced. But to get the nut out, you have to extract that sleeve, the dark colored ring.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bruce.

As always, appreciate the wisdom!!
 
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#11
Yes they’re plastic. Someone here took one out by heating it with a soldering iron, inserting a flat driver and twisting it out. I’ll tell you now that it has to come out before you get a new nut in there: the nut is larger than the insert.

I think trying a reamer and opening the hole but leaving some of the insert of possible would be preferable.
tubestuff said:
That dark colored ring, isn't that wood?
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
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#12
mesaplayer83 said:
I don't know about the OP's bass, but I have a Squier CV 50s P bass, and the above is not true regarding it... I can, and have removed the truss rod nut without removing the insert on that bass... Same thing regarding MIM Fenders, and MIA Peaveys - the nut is NOT larger than the insert on any of those I have owned, and there have been quite a few...
Click to expand...
Thanks mesa,

Any chance of a closeup pic of your bass in that area or does it look like mine? (first post)
thanks.
 
#16
mesaplayer83 said:
I don't know about the OP's bass, but I have a Squier CV 50s P bass, and the above is not true regarding it... I can, and have removed the truss rod nut without removing the insert on that bass... Same thing regarding MIM Fenders, and MIA Peaveys - the nut is NOT larger than the insert on any of those I have owned, and there have been quite a few...
Click to expand...
Different years I suppose. I have an early sonic blue 60’s and a blond 50’s and neither will come out through the plug. Yes his may differ. I don’t see where MIM and peavey enters the comparison.
mesaplayer83 said:
I'll see what I can do... While these guys are correct in *some* cases, what they're saying certainly isn't true in ALL cases - I just looked at the MIM Fender Jazz neck I have - I believe it's a 2012 - and the nut can most certainly be removed without any difficulty regarding that sleeve, same as my CV 50's P Bass...

I would find it difficult to believe that Squier would make any changes in neck construction in this regard, although I suppose it's possible...
Click to expand...
again just going with what happened to me and another on tb that posted a big thread on it several years back. Obviously the plugs must differ over the years.
 
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#17
96tbird said:
Different years I suppose. I have an early sonic blue 60’s and a blond 50’s and neither will come out through the plug. Yes his may differ. I don’t see where MIM and peavey enters the comparison.
again just going with what happened to me and another on tb that posted a big thread on it several years back. Obviously the plugs must differ over the years.
Click to expand...

I have no reason to doubt you, just relaying my own experiences
 
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#18
OK, I just took a closer look at my CV 50s P neck in the light of day, and it appears that I was mistaken when I posted that I had removed the truss rod nut without disturbing the sleeve... Please accept my apologies, OP, Bruce Johnson, and 96tbird - apparently, I confused that bass with another I own... Again, I'm sorry for any confusion I may have caused - and good luck, OP...
 
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#19
Remove that plastic insert, use a torx or ez out and remove the nut ,put a washer under the new nut and install.
tubestuff said:
Just purchased this on Reverb from a guy "As is" but he didn't mention the stripped nut, so my bad.

Anyhoo, never tried fixing one so any help is appreciated. I not only want to enjoy the supposed goodness of these necks but also to tell the seller to suck eggs... with a smile.

I have a set of the Screw Out screw removal tools bot the OD of their shafts is larger than the ID of the truss rod access hole.

I may have to order a Stewmac "Gripper Truss rod Wrench" but I can't find the correct nut size for a 60's CV P Bass neck so I can try to fab my own Gripper or buy the appropriate size from SM.

Anyone know the correct hex size for a Chinese CV?

Any tips, tricks, kluges or otherwise is greatly appreciated from this August community.
The access hole is a LOT deeper than what I'm used to but this is my first "P" bass so... ?

Do the terrible pics I attached show what I'm describing? I don't have any frame of reference so I can't tell.

ANYTHING is appreciated,

Thanks!View attachment 2813049
Click to expand...
 
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