Have you ever seen any "how to remove insert" videos or explanations?
I think I'll try the , "melt with solder iron" method first and if that doesn't work
Just found this.
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I think I'll try the , "melt with solder iron" method first and if that doesn't work
Just found this.
it works perfectly now. I just did it yesterday though. Why didn't you like it ?
Oh I like it a lot. Just looks like more work than I was prepped for. The YIKES was me hoping I don't screw it up.
Hello,
I've had the some troubles with my Matt Freeman and had to extract entire truss rod. Unfortunately, the "brown insert" is not plastic it is a piece of walnut. So ironing it out will probably not work. Also hex key is 5 mm, not 4. I've heard torx keys sometimes help as well. But in any case you WILL need to remove the insert...
If you have tools, courage and correctly installed hands you may try to drill the insert out as I did. Just get the long drill:
When you get your problem solved you will may want to reverse the drilling. I was lazy and just used black tape. But now I have access to the nut if I need
It is not too hard to do just take care of neck's finish - scratches are hard to remove. So protect it with masking tape or other kind of protection. I've put the plastic bag (mangan strings ) on the headstock while drilling
I've had the some troubles with my Matt Freeman and had to extract entire truss rod. Unfortunately, the "brown insert" is not plastic it is a piece of walnut. So ironing it out will probably not work. Also hex key is 5 mm, not 4. I've heard torx keys sometimes help as well. But in any case you WILL need to remove the insert...
If you have tools, courage and correctly installed hands you may try to drill the insert out as I did. Just get the long drill:
When you get your problem solved you will may want to reverse the drilling. I was lazy and just used black tape. But now I have access to the nut if I need
It is not too hard to do just take care of neck's finish - scratches are hard to remove. So protect it with masking tape or other kind of protection. I've put the plastic bag (mangan strings
) on the headstock while drilling
Last edited:
Damn good stuff, Thanks!!!Hello,
I've had the some troubles with my Matt Freeman and had to extract entire truss rod. Unfortunately, the "brown insert" is not plastic it is a piece of walnut. So ironing it out will probably not work. Also hex key is 5 mm, not 4. I've heard torx keys sometimes help as well. But in any case you WILL need to remove the insert...
If you have tools, courage and correctly installed hands you may try to drill the insert out as I did. Just get the long drill:
View attachment 2814730
When you get your problem solved you will may want to reverse the drilling. I was lazy and just used black tape. But now I have access to the nut if I need
View attachment 2814754
It is not too hard to do just take care of neck's finish - scratches are hard to remove. So protect it with masking tape or other kind of protection. I've put the plastic bag (mangan strings
Do you recall the bit size on that bit?Hello,
I've had the some troubles with my Matt Freeman and had to extract entire truss rod. Unfortunately, the "brown insert" is not plastic it is a piece of walnut. So ironing it out will probably not work. Also hex key is 5 mm, not 4. I've heard torx keys sometimes help as well. But in any case you WILL need to remove the insert...
If you have tools, courage and correctly installed hands you may try to drill the insert out as I did. Just get the long drill:
View attachment 2814730
When you get your problem solved you will may want to reverse the drilling. I was lazy and just used black tape. But now I have access to the nut if I need
View attachment 2814754
It is not too hard to do just take care of neck's finish - scratches are hard to remove. So protect it with masking tape or other kind of protection. I've put the plastic bag (mangan strings
Thanks!
10X400 mm.
It may be hard to start drilling. I advice to plug the entry hole with some wooden dowel having the pilot hole in it.
Hey 72,
Thanks!
I've got both of those sets and tomorrow's the day.
I was all ready to heat & remove the walnut (?) truss/nut sleeve before I tried but it looks like you were able to just muscle it out. I'm getting mixed signals on this.
Kinda looks like if I want to preserve the sleeve, take it out. If I don't mind some scratches, go for it.
Took a closer look at your pics. I think your sleeve dia. is a bit bigger than mine (made in China 60's CV Squier)
I think it is not possible to force the walnut sleeve out. It may broke out with surrounding wood/lacquer badly. Heating is not an option because of lacquer on the headstock as well the sleeve itself will be damaged. At least when I've tired to force it out using the truss rod nut - I've failed. It acts like a bi-flex truss rod.
Yeah, don't try to force the sleeve out with the truss rod nut. The normal way to get the sleeve out is to drill it out in steps. Several sizes of drill bits, increasing in size. Usually, when you get close to the final size the glue joint will fracture and the remains of the sleeve will pull out as one shell. If not, clean the hole out to 3/8" (if I remember right, that's the OD of the sleeve).
tubestuff, I just carefully backed the truss rod nut out and it did scratch the sleeve a bit. If it's an issue you can always lightly sand the scratches out with some sand paper wrapped around a cylinder moving up in grits to say 400 and once that's done apply some clear poly or something similar to the sanded area. It should hide any sanding marks and look good. Just my .02.
Hi 72,
Thanks for all your input. I have a calibrated heat gun I've been dying to use for more than just shrink sleeving. It has small nozzles that will fit in the opening so now I want to try to pull it just because.
I'll try to post some pics as I slowly destroy my neck.
Thanks Bruce,
Your method was the winner, along with the other drill out folks, and you nailed the 3/8".
Thanks.
What a stupid design! But after a 3 hour cluster, I finally popped the nut.
The heat gun did squat from 150-250F except start burning. Solder iron may have applied a more even heat but the nut was so stripped there was no chance to to gain purchase to back the sleeve out.
It took 5 drill sizes ending at 3/8" and even a chiseled tip eyeglass screwdriver to bottom out the hole to squeeze it out with the reverse drill bit.
Thanks to all of the TBers who walked me through my first nut job.
Also thanks to Chris at Reverb for his assistance.
.
The heat gun did squat from 150-250F except start burning. Solder iron may have applied a more even heat but the nut was so stripped there was no chance to to gain purchase to back the sleeve out.
It took 5 drill sizes ending at 3/8" and even a chiseled tip eyeglass screwdriver to bottom out the hole to squeeze it out with the reverse drill bit.
Thanks to all of the TBers who walked me through my first nut job.
Also thanks to Chris at Reverb for his assistance.
.
Attachments
Think I'm going to blame you for inspiring me to follow through.I tried a lot , i planned and tested the idea on spare parts
I will provide some photos and if you need some help i can also help you personally BUT the responsibility for the outcome is yours
Thanks! From across the globe...
StewMac's 4mm Gripper Truss Rod Wrench was the key to removing mine. Hope you finally figured that out!
