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Help with bass aria pro 2

Hello there!
Quick question for you, guys. I have the scematics of the "insides" of Aria
Pro 2 SB1000 bass guitar made somewhere in the 80's. Those schematics seem
to be missing some elements as far as where do some wires go, and in order
to get to the bottom of it I need the original scematics from the 80's does
anyone have it or know where I can get those? What interests me is shown on
the picture below:
 

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Hmmm...

Looks like that's had an extensive re-wiring at some point in its life - the stacked pots aren't right IME, & the active board looks wrong.

At least... it looks wrong for an early SB-1000. They had a master volume & tone, the 6-way preselector, a preselect bypass switch and everything was connected to the 'Black Box' active circuit by the white multi-way conblock in your last picture.

The design changed in the mid 80s & again for the re-issues; what year is yours? (check the serial number - the first digit is usually the year of manufacture, so 0=1980, 2=1982, 9=1979)

Somewhere I have a period schematic, but I'll have to hunt around for it.

Pete.
 
Thanks for your time! We've found the "Black Box" and "red indicator", so now
I have almost all elements I need, but I still need the schematics to
install it properly. Do you have it or know where I can find one? Btw if it
helps the serial number is № 4043076 (SB-1000, 1980-1984)
 
Thanks for your time! We've found the "Black Box" and "red indicator", so now
I have almost all elements I need, but I still need the schematics to
install it properly. Do you have it or know where I can find one? Btw if it
helps the serial number is № 4043076 (SB-1000, 1980-1984)
Ah, by 1984 they'd changed the design a bit - the original configuration doesn't have the Red LED, & they may have altered the Black Box slightly.

Here's a PDF of the original schematic that applies to the 1st series of SB-1000s (1979 to 1981):

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

I've re-drawn it as the original scan isn't too clear in places.

Yours is a Series-2, but hopefully you can fill in the blanks. I *think* the red LED is just a power indicator, the re-issues from a couple of years back have a separate circuit that makes the LED flash when the batteries are low. Keep that Switchcraft 1/4" socket in your 2nd pic as it's an original piece of the puzzle too.

If it all goes horribly wrong, don't worry. There's a simple way of rewiring them as Passive that still keeps the 6-way selector.

Pete.
 
EDIT to previous post.

I've added the scan of the original 2-page description of the 'Noise Killer Circuit' & updated the link, so if anyone else has snaffled a copy of the schematic, you may wish to grab it again - it's just over 250KB & now smells ever so slightly of snake-oil :D

I've also added an altered schematic to show the Passive modification I used on [Invalid or Expired Link Removed].

The PDF should display in your browser, but if it doesn't just right-click on the link & hit 'Save Target As' or 'Save Link As'.

Additionally, I turfed up these two wiring diagrams:

SB-1000

SB-1000 (New)

Interestingly they show stacked pots & some fairly mad 9-pin switches, which you don't seem to have.

Kudos to Jason's superb Aria Blog for putting these up.
Pete.
 
I don't remember the name of the sight now, but there is a website dedicated to Matsumoku and there are a lot of schematics on the site. I contacted Aria Japan about three years ago because I needed to fix an SB-700 and they sent me an original schematic. My schematic is on the Matsumoku website as well.

Good luck!
 
Interestingly they show stacked pots & some fairly mad 9-pin switches

We're stuck at this. We want the whole thing to be as close to the original
schematics as it gets, but we need 9-pin-switch. Could you be kind to tell
us what can it be replaced with or where can we get one?
Thanks in advance.
 
Got a reply, & some new info...

The switch in the schematic actually has TWELVE pins! The proper name for one of these is '4 pole Double Throw On/On' (also called 4PDT). They're not that common, but here in the UK I found a few being supplied by model railway shops, so see what you can get from your local model RR outlets. Watch the physical size too, the toggle needs to be quite dinky, not some ginormous We-Belong-Dead switch :D Ideally it should have a black flattened toggle, but don't be surprised if you can't get an exact duplicate.

Found these as a possible supplier: BUXCOMM, Ham Radio Shop (assuming you're in the USA).

However... you'll notice that one row of terminals isn't used, so you could safely substitute a 9 pin 3PDT On/On switch.

In the Mk II SB-1000 the toggle is acting as an active/passive switch, unlike the Mk I where it just drops out the 6-way selector. It needs that many terminals because it swaps the pickup leads over to a different set of pots. Check those stacked pots in your photos, hopefully they're NOT the usual Dual-Concentric type but a Dual Gang setup with two different pots on one common shaft (probably 10k & 250k, but possibly 10k & 500k).

Pete.