Help with Installing Carbon Fiber Rods

[BassUrges]

The bet time to test the bar or rod fit is when you cut the channel. If it's tight then simply add a layer of painter's masking tape to your guide and give it another pass. You can add a second layer if its still too tight.

Easy to do when you're cutting the channel the first time, but it's not all that difficult to re-create your guide setup. Chances are it won't be exactly the same and will create a wider channel when you use it.

The masking tape trick sounds like a great idea.

Regrettably for me, the “setup” was a bunch of clamps on an aluminum strip that interfered with fitting, so I was only able to easily test a small corner. It seemed fine with that amount.

 

[BassUrges]

If anyone is curious how this wound up, I put a 1/8" "router bit" into my dremel and ran it down the channels. The dremel isn't much of a router and doesn't cut hard maple unless you force it to, but it shaved just a little off the sides pretty well. They aren't perfectly even and smooth, but the carbon fiber rods now fit firmly but not crazy tight. I'll glue and trim the boards on both necks this week.

Still searching for the perfect water-clear topcoat that I can build up thick but not discolor or turn milky.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Still searching for the perfect water-clear topcoat that I can build up thick but not discolor or turn milky.

Varathane Ultimate Water-Base Polyurethane. Read all about it over on the water-base finishes thread.

 

[BassUrges]

Varathane Ultimate Water-Base Polyurethane. Read all about it over on the water-base finishes thread.

I have a can waiting to try...it warns that it "may discolor" light or pastel finishes. Fortunately I have both some spare pastel-dyed holly veneer and a little pile of maple scraps with the various undercoats it might have to stick to.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

I have a can waiting to try...it warns that it "may discolor" light or pastel finishes. Fortunately I have both some spare pastel-dyed holly veneer and a little pile of maple scraps with the various undercoats it might have to stick to.

Well, I've experimented with a lot of different finishes and brands, and Varathane Ultimate is the clearest that I've used. It looks bluish when you spray it on, but it's clear when it dries.

 

[BassUrges]

My last round of tests found Minwax Polycrylic to be very clear...but also, milky when thick. Unfortunately I didn't discover that until I had used it on the real thing.

 

[BassUrges]

Testing adhesion and clarity of the Varathane today. 5 coats so far, still nice and clear, but not much build yet. Was aiming for 10 coats but I may need more than that for my purposes.

 

[bobdabilder]

The only issues i've seen are when it goes on a little too thick and never seems to clear up. Typically when the humidity is up.

Well, I've experimented with a lot of different finishes and brands, and Varathane Ultimate is the clearest that I've used. It looks bluish when you spray it on, but it's clear when it dries.

 

[BassUrges]

The only issues i've seen are when it goes on a little too thick and never seems to clear up. Typically when the humidity is up.

There are a lot of clears--probably the majority--that are slightly yellow. I tested a bunch maybe a year ago and only one of them was actually clear (Minwax Polycrylic). This wasn't on the list, so it's getting tested today, over all the finishes it might have to topcoat, bare wood, dyed black wood, dyed pastel pink wood, and heavy watercolor paper (which is bright white). So far this is working and neither yellow nor cloudy, but not yet thick enough, so we will see. As for the "not clearing up" issue, I actually spoke with the Rust Oleum help desk today, and they recommended extra drying time and, in the event of cloudiness, a rubdown with a rag thoroughly wetted with alcohol. I will try to avoid that.