Help with pickup route corners

[skycruiser]

Today I routed a split P on my Squier Tele bass. The smallest roller bit I have is 1/4" which worked just fine except for the 6 corners. I tried sanding the corners out but it's not going well. Looking for tips on how to cut the corners.

My ideas are chisel and sand to clean up, or maybe a corner sanding block. Freehand routing with a small bit is out of the question - I'll mess it up.

Thanks in advance for any tips!

 

[Matt Liebenau]

If you’re any good with a chisel that’s probably the easiest way to go. There are also chisels made to square up a corner if you’re up for dropping some dough but it can be done with standard chisels as well. Note, there are less expensive ones on Amazon but I have no idea of the quality. Narex and Lee Valley should be good stuff.

Narex Corner Chisel - Lee Valley Tools

www.leevalley.com

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Hmmm.....Well, my first question is why did your 1/4" dia bit make what appear to be 1/4" radius corners? Normally, a 1/4" bit will cut 1/8" radius corners, which are fine with P-style pickups.

Did you do the routing with a template? What's the radius in the corners of the template? They should be 1/8" radius or smaller. If they are 1/4" radius, then you need to hand file them to 1/8" radius, or square corners. Then, put the template back on, lined up carefully, and re-cut the corners with your 1/4" dia bit.

Or did you cut this with a CNC router? If so, then you need to go back into your computer model and change the corner radiuses to 1/8". Then put it back in the machine, lined up carefully, and re-cut the corners.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Amana makes some really small diameter template router bits I use for pickup corners. They work great, but are fragile, I only use them for the last little bit of template routing. They sell them on Amazon and EBay.

 

[skycruiser]

Hmmm.....Well, my first question is why did your 1/4" dia bit make what appear to be 1/4" radius corners? Normally, a 1/4" bit will cut 1/8" radius corners, which are fine with P-style pickups.

Did you do the routing with a template? What's the radius in the corners of the template? They should be 1/8" radius or smaller. If they are 1/4" radius, then you need to hand file them to 1/8" radius, or square corners. Then, put the template back on, lined up carefully, and re-cut the corners with your 1/4" dia bit.

Or did you cut this with a CNC router? If so, then you need to go back into your computer model and change the corner radiuses to 1/8". Then put it back in the machine, lined up carefully, and re-cut the corners.

I may have the size wrong - the bit I used is the same size as the pickup ears (mounting bosses).

I made a 1/2" MDF template using my aluminum P bass pickguard. I'm a bit annoyed that I nicked the pickguard in the process. But anyway, the corner radius was limited by the size of that bit. I don't have a long enough bit with smaller diameter to do the corners. With the template the it needs to extend more than an inch down from the router.

I don't have a good wood corner file. But that's a good idea, I'll see if I can find one locally. Since I already messed up the pickguard I could use it as a filing guide.

 

[RomanS]

Too late for that now, but if you want to do something like that again, get a drill bit of the appropriate radius, and drill the corners BEFORE starting to use your router!

 

[skycruiser]

Too late for that now, but if you want to do something like that again, get a drill bit of the appropriate radius, and drill the corners BEFORE starting to use your router!

That's a great idea! I should have thought of that.

 

[Aberdumbie]

Small chisel as sharp as you can make it. That will slice like butter and leave with a clean and crisp corner. And always work the chisel away from your body.... Ask me how I know!

 

[Thumpin6string]

I'd use the smaller bit with the template, even if it doesn't go deep enough. You could chisel out the additional depth or even use a drill to deepen it. At least that way you'll have a clean route showing. Nothing under the pickup will be seen after they are installed.

 

[skycruiser]

I'd use the smaller bit, even if it doesn't go deep enough. You could chisel out the additional depth or even use a drill to deepen it. At least that way you'll have a clean route showing. Nothing under the pickup will be seen after they are installed.

The problem was the smaller bit wouldn't work with a template. It is similar to this shape. There isn't an extended shaft of equal diameter to the cutting diameter to ride against the template. I wasn't prepared with the right tools!

 

[Thumpin6string]

The problem was the smaller bit wouldn't work with a template. It is similar to this shape. There isn't an extended shaft of equal diameter to the cutting diameter to ride against the template. I wasn't prepared with the right tools!

View attachment 7525135

If the template is metal and you have a steady hand, you could try doing it with a drill.

 

[Low Main]

This is not for everyone, but a carving tool is perfect for this job. I don't want to square the corners with a chisel because the pickup covers have slightly radiused corners and they make a fully squared corner look clunky. My eye just goes to something like that involuntarily.

I use a small #9 gouge, first lightly setting in the radius with guided hand pressure, then once the arc is established to the point where you can locate the tool in it, I tap the tool down through the corner with a small mallet.

If the body is already finished, I set in a little bit deeper with the gouge before using the mallet so I don't chip the finish. With a polyester finish, the clear coat and color coats are pretty soft, but the sealer / grain filler is not and that's what I worry about the most.

I used to shy away from something like this, but with a properly sharpened gouge, you have good control establishing the corner arc and the task is not as fraught with potential danger as you might think.

Once I start tapping the gouge with the mallet, I like to undercut the corner slightly as I go, because pickup covers are often slightly tapered outward in dimension from top to bottom. The alternative is to relieve the bottom edges of the corners of the pickup covers with a file or sandpaper.

If you're worried about screwing this up, you can create a tighter radius at the top of the corner with a round file like a chain saw file, then use that filed area as a guide for the gouge without having to cut through the finish with the tool. If I file the corners first, I can just push the gouge through the wood below the finish without needing the mallet.

Filing the tops of the corners first also saves the edge of the gouge from being dulled as it cuts through the layers of finish.

 

[BassHole1]

Looks clean. I would take the P cover and trace it over the hole. Then use a Dremel bit and grind it out, but I defer to others here.....
I added a humbucker to a Tele guitar and it was a pain. I used a drill to make big holes. I then used a chisel to take out chunks.
Then fine finished it with the Dremel with router attachment. I didn't have a real router.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

This is not for everyone, but a carving tool is perfect for this job. I don't want to square the corners with a chisel because the pickup covers have slightly radiused corners and they make a fully squared corner look clunky. My eye just goes to something like that involuntarily.

I use a small #9 gouge, first lightly setting in the radius with guided hand pressure, then once the arc is established to the point where you can locate the tool in it, I tap the tool down through the corner with a small mallet.

If the body is already finished, I set in a little bit deeper with the gouge before using the mallet so I don't chip the finish. With a polyester finish, the clear coat and color coats are pretty soft, but the sealer / grain filler is not and that's what I worry about the most.

I used to shy away from something like this, but with a properly sharpened gouge, you have good control establishing the corner arc and the task is not as fraught with potential danger as you might think.

Once I start tapping the gouge with the mallet, I like to undercut the corner slightly as I go, because pickup covers are often slightly tapered outward in dimension from top to bottom. The alternative is to relieve the bottom edges of the corners of the pickup covers with a file or sandpaper.

If you're worried about screwing this up, you can create a tighter radius at the top of the corner with a round file like a chain saw file, then use that filed area as a guide for the gouge without having to cut through the finish with the tool. If I file the corners first, I can just push the gouge through the wood below the finish without needing the mallet.

Filing the tops of the corners first also saves the edge of the gouge from being dulled as it cuts through the layers of finish.

My only add on to that would be if you’re starting with a file only push down into the cavity with it to start until you’re through the finish. If you pull back up and out with the file as though it’s cutting on the up stroke l’ve seen the file grab a chunk of paint and pull it up also. Errr…. I mean I’ve heard of it… yeah… that’s it.

 

[newfuture]

I'd be inclined to try the smallest grinding bit I could find for a Dremel and working slooooowly, with the router attachment if I had one

Source- I'm a terrible woodworker who knows very little about doing it right