Help with rotary wiring diagram

[sotua]

Hi,

I have a Jazz bass and a 3 pole, 4 position rotary switch[*].

I want to wire my bass from its current V/V/T, to Vol/switch/Tone, with the positions like this:

1.- Neck single
2.- Neck + Bridge parallel
3.- Neck + Bridge series
4.- Bridge single

Basically, switchable instead of blendable jazz bass, with series/parallel mod thrown in.

Would someone have a wiring diagram for this? A pretty one that a dummy like me can follow? I've found some on the internet but I really can't tell if they apply to my switch or not, and some I just plain don't understand.

Thanks in advance,
sotua

[*] like this one:
Rotary 3-pole 4 position switch

 

[line6man]

 

[sotua]

Thanks!

Now, the embarrassing "for dummies" part. How does the switch schematic you provided map to the actual lugs of the switch? In other words, given this labeling of the lugs:

Which ones are the ones noted in your diagram?

Thanks again,
sotua

 

[line6man]

Thanks!

Now, the embarrassing "for dummies" part. How does the switch schematic you provided map to the actual lugs of the switch? In other words, given this labeling of the lugs:

Which ones are the ones noted in your diagram?

Thanks again,
sotua

Check with the manufacturer for a pin layout. Otherwise you'll have to figure it out, either visually, if the switch is open-frame and easy to view; or with an Ohm meter or continuity tester.

 

[sotua]

Check with the manufacturer for a pin layout. Otherwise you'll have to figure it out, either visually, if the switch is open-frame and easy to view; or with an Ohm meter or continuity tester.

Thank you for your response.

"1 2 3 4" should be the four lugs that get contact in each of the clicks of the switch, right?

(sorry to ask so many dumb questions - I can solder, but rotary switches always have intimidated me. Don't know why )

 

[line6man]

Thank you for your response.

"1 2 3 4" should be the four lugs that get contact in each of the clicks of the switch, right?

(sorry to ask so many dumb questions - I can solder, but rotary switches always have intimidated me. Don't know why )

My diagram simply references commons and positions. In your picture, "M," "N" and "O" appear to be the common terminals, whereas the rest are the throws. One pole might connect "M" to "B" in position one, "C" in position two, and so on, while "N" connects to "F" in position one and "G" in position two and so on. I don't want to make any assumptions on pin layout without knowing for sure, however.

These aren't dumb questions at all, btw.

 

[sotua]

My diagram simply references commons and positions. In your picture, "M," "N" and "O" appear to be the common terminals, whereas the rest are the throws. One pole might connect "M" to "B" in position one, "C" in position two, and so on, while "N" connects to "F" in position one and "G" in position two and so on. I don't want to make any assumptions on pin layout without knowing for sure, however.

These aren't dumb questions at all, btw.

One last question: where do I solder the leads marked as "ground"? (upper 3 and lower 4 in your diagram).

Thanks again!

 

[Stealth]

Grounds should go the back of the nearest pot casing and then add a wire from that to the ground lug of the output jack. You can also ground directly to the output jack, but I find it more convenient to "star-ground" everything to the closest pot and then use a new wire from that to the jack.

In line6man's diagram above, since the Bridge PU- and bridge ground are all soldered to the back of the volume pot, feel free to connect all the grounds there before wiring them to the output jack's sleeve contact.

Make sure you use a bit of sandpaper to roughen the pot casing a bit (not much, just enough to make for easier soldering) and remember not to overheat it.

 

[line6man]

One last question: where do I solder the leads marked as "ground"? (upper 3 and lower 4 in your diagram).

Thanks again!

Anywhere you want. All grounds interconnect, so wherever it's most convenient to solder.

 

[sotua]

Anywhere you want. All grounds interconnect, so wherever it's most convenient to solder.

So, on the back of the closest pot I'd think. Gotcha.

Thank you so much for all of this. Soldering time!

 

[sotua]

Well, finally made it! Cost a bit (I'm no expert at soldering, that small peg lug with three wires looks like **** ) but finally managed it.

However, I got the pickups reversed (don't know if I read my positions wrong, but anyway, fixed by swapping pickup wires and that's that), missed grounding on one, had a hell of a time putting it all back in (jazz cavities aren't exactly roomy), but it's finally done. Awesome the way the series position bulks the tone up and the highs get sweeter and tamer.

One thing I think I noticed (it isn't exactly objective because I tested it on headphones, last time I heard this bass was with the whole band at rehearsal) is that I think I have more highs on all regular positions (both singles and parallel). Is this just me, or could it be that there's one less 250k pot in the circuit?

 

[line6man]

Well, finally made it! Cost a bit (I'm no expert at soldering, that small peg lug with three wires looks like **** ) but finally managed it.

However, I got the pickups reversed (don't know if I read my positions wrong, but anyway, fixed by swapping pickup wires and that's that), missed grounding on one, had a hell of a time putting it all back in (jazz cavities aren't exactly roomy), but it's finally done. Awesome the way the series position bulks the tone up and the highs get sweeter and tamer.

One thing I think I noticed (it isn't exactly objective because I tested it on headphones, last time I heard this bass was with the whole band at rehearsal) is that I think I have more highs on all regular positions (both singles and parallel). Is this just me, or could it be that there's one less 250k pot in the circuit?

With a 1M input impedance, one 250k volume pot provides a 200k Ohms resistive load on the pickup coils. With two volume pots, you had a 111.11k Ohms load. You've nearly doubled the resistance, and as a result, the resonant frequency has moved up, and you're hearing more high frequency content.

 

[ZaxZumu]

Can anybody reupload that diagram, please? I got a rotary switch because there were several diagrams for them and as soon as I started working on it, all the images suddenly Hoffa'd out...

 

[Crater]

I want to wire my bass from its current V/V/T, to Vol/switch/Tone, with the positions like this:

1.- Neck single
2.- Neck + Bridge parallel
3.- Neck + Bridge series
4.- Bridge single

Can anybody reupload that diagram, please?

Telecaster "super switch" wiring is exactly the same electronically, and there are lots of diagrams available.
The fender style pickup switches ARE rotary switches, just with a limited degree of rotation. You only need two poles to implement neck/bridge/both parallel/both series wiring. On the tele switch, the bottom left terminal is the common for the left side, and on the right side the top terminal is the common terminal. Use an ohm meter or continuity tester to figure out which terminal is which on your rotary.