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Help with short scale basses
- Thread starter ognihs
- Start date
And now for something completely different!
Here is my solution to the hand and wrist situation, especially since "half-fanning" the frets allows the elbow, wrist and hand to be relaxed and neutral in position as you come up the neck:
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/different-custom-p-style-bass-755914/
Here is my solution to the hand and wrist situation, especially since "half-fanning" the frets allows the elbow, wrist and hand to be relaxed and neutral in position as you come up the neck:
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/different-custom-p-style-bass-755914/
@ macmanlou - thanks for the reminder! is that the case for all string thrus?
@ f-clef-jef - thanks for getting me going on the warmoth builder... talk about a time killer.
@ iiipopes - that bass looks fantastic. i'm still trying wrap my head around the concept, as well as how you pulled it off yourself. was it hard to adjust to the different neck? have you noticed any differences when compared to a standard scale or short scale?
@ f-clef-jef - thanks for getting me going on the warmoth builder... talk about a time killer.
@ iiipopes - that bass looks fantastic. i'm still trying wrap my head around the concept, as well as how you pulled it off yourself. was it hard to adjust to the different neck? have you noticed any differences when compared to a standard scale or short scale?
Congrats on the Mustang, pics please when it arrives! 
Thomastik Infeld also makes a great set of Jazz ROUNDS for shortscale.
Even though they are indeed 32" I run them on my 30" shortscale and highly recommend them.
Thomastik Infeld also makes a great set of Jazz ROUNDS for shortscale.
Even though they are indeed 32" I run them on my 30" shortscale and highly recommend them.
All strung-throughs need a little more string length added to the scale length. The Mustang works well with most "medium" (about 32") sets. I use TI 32" scale flatwounds on both of my Mustangs. About 3/8" of the wrap goes around the E string tuning post, but TIs are flexible enough that it isn't a problem there - or where the wrap goes through the bridge. Roundwounds should be no problem at all.
+ on the Danelectro Longhorn. I have a Korean "Pro" model which is better then my Squier CV Jazz in terms of finish, build and even, balanced tone. (And I am picky.) Do not get me wrong, it is not perfect, but is very soild and versatile for the price. Goes from thick and "woody" to guitar-like depending on P/U selector and tone control.
(I read about Bongolation's Dano and he had a lemon, for sure.)
Sustain is a little bit shorter than from a good Fender P or J but not bad at all.
(I read about Bongolation's Dano and he had a lemon, for sure.)
Sustain is a little bit shorter than from a good Fender P or J but not bad at all.
The Chinese ones were all lemons as far as I could tell. They were terrible.
I'll give the Cor-Teks the benefit of the doubt, but a "solid" Danelectro is hard for me to picture, though. The right strings for them (and there is only one set made, by LaBella) are just under $50, shipped -- which is more than the entire instrument seems worth to me.
There are plenty of short scale scale strings that fit the Danos. In fact any shortscale strings will fit the Dano. Right now i'm using D'addario half rounds and previous to that I trimmed back a set of Elixers and used them with no problems. Lots of flats available shortscale also. I haven't tried any on my Dano yet but had used them on my Jerry Jones Longhorns. Sorry you had such a bad experience with your Danos Bongolation. Its a shame Dano switch to China to make their basses for awhile. The early Korean models are pretty nice!
That's a beauty! I love me a bound neck.
On a bass, you freaks.
Ha! Thanks very much!
While I'm skeptical they even fit (the ones that came on it sure didn't), there's only one (1) set -- the LaBella 760FDs -- that has the right gauge, low tension and length for these misbegotten things that will allow them to be used without self-destructing by overloading and wrecking the cheap guitar machines and Mickey Mouse bridge.
They are made especially for the Danelectros from the original specs.
If you want to waste the time and money upgrading the machines and bridge on this abortion, you can get away with using other strings, but in stock form these are the only strings that will really fit and work properly with the "Dead-On '58" Longhorn. And you're still stuck with its other inherent defects.
Sorry, I just don't see it.
You are certainly welcome to continue believing what you would like to believe, while the rest of us who actually own and play them will continue on enjoying them. You have already made up your mind and nobody is going to change that. God bless and take care!
You might get away with cutting down roundwounds, but you really don't want to do that with flats because you'll end up with too much of the wrap in the tuning pegs, and it might "unwrap".
Best to get as close to the proper length as possible.
As on my previous post I cut down some Elixers and put them on my longhorn with no ill effect. I wish they made them in Short scale length to make it easier. More and more string makers are coming out with short scale strings though.
No. The string should not (and probably can't be) wound on the voiced length -- the maxium diameter before the step-down -- if it has thick/layered windings (E and A), especially on small-post machines. Pitch tension should always be attained by traction on the core, not compression on the windings.
I've explained why numerous times, but the reasons should be obvious to an intelligent person who looks at what's going on there.
