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Help With Strap Locks

Stampy

Stampy

Jun 30, 2008
970
3
40
Connecticut
#1
I bought a set of dunlop strap locks as insurance for my new fender but was kinda hesitant when I noticed that it said I had to redrill. I have no problem will everything else but I am not keen on redrilling into a 1,000 dollar bass. I am wondering if thse is actually nessesary due to the dunlops larger size? If so I may just have it done professionally, but seens dumb fo something that seems so simple.
 
#2
Go buy 2 bottles of Grolsch beer, with the green bottle and metal flip top lid. Pull the red rubber washer off the bottle and use it as a straplock. No drilling required. They fit tight and don't look bad. Then you can drink the beer.
 
#3
Earthquake said:
Go buy 2 bottles of Grolsch beer, with the green bottle and metal flip top lid. Pull the red rubber washer off the bottle and use it as a straplock. No drilling required. They fit tight and don't look bad. Then you can drink the beer.
Click to expand...

:hyper: :hmm: Perfect! I like the way you think. It's KISS with dessert.

Stampy :help: Have you tried installing the Dunlops with the Fender screws??
 
#4
How much of a difference is there in screw size? IIRC, the Dunlops are #6 but may have a slightly different thread pattern. I've swapped out more than a handful of sets and never ran into any major problems. When I did have to enlarge a pilot hole, I used the ext. handset on my Dremel for greater control. I also soap (Ivory) the screws liberally and use a clean, properly-fitting PH screwdriver.

Riis
 
#6
I have re-drilled the holes for Dunlop strap-loks many times now and have had no issues. I unscrew the original screw, put a piece of painter's tape over the hole so that the finish does not get messed up, mark the drill bit with another piece of painter's tape for proper drill depth, and then drill away. I then lube up the dunlop screw with a glob of Chapstick and it goes right in. I have not even had problems with drilling into a thin horn or at a slight angle. I say you should give it a go on your own :D
 
#10
Big +1 to soaping the screw & using the correct screwdriver. I replaced the strap buttons on my MIM Jazz with Dunlop straplocks with no need to redrill the hole. Been that way for about six years and haven't seen any problems.
 
#11
You dont need to re-drill, they suggest it because it is not safe to put the new screws in the old holes because it would be easy to strip the hole and pull the strap button out. Put a little wood glue and broken tooth picks in the old hole and let it dry. Then break off the toothpicks and then drive the screw into that with a screw driver. This will give the screw something to hold onto and you can avoid drilling.
 
#12
Just shorten off the screws
My dad did it with a cutter and it goes in like a butter

I noticed the new straplocks got shorter screws ;)
Anyhow, Those are great, Fully secure the bass on you and it won't move anywhere :D
 
#13
boogie8008 said:
You dont need to re-drill, they suggest it because it is not safe to put the new screws in the old holes because it would be easy to strip the hole and pull the strap button out. Put a little wood glue and broken tooth picks in the old hole and let it dry. Then break off the toothpicks and then drive the screw into that with a screw driver. This will give the screw something to hold onto and you can avoid drilling.
Click to expand...

great idea man!
 
#15
I've never used Dunlop straplocks - but I install Schaller locks on ALL of my axes.

Typically, I just pork the original strap-button screw back in through the lock-button.

I've done this on an Ibanez, an ESP, multiple Fenders, a Jay Turser, and even a Riverhead, without any problems. Occasionally the screw threads get dulled a bit being worked through the lock-button, but a little scrap of packing tape around the screw before you put it back in clears that up nicely.
 
#16
Zooberwerx said:
In some instance...well, maybe most....the stock screw head is too wide to fit fully within the Dunlop recess. Not to worry. You can knock off the outer edge of the screw head with a grinder or file. Once again, a Dremel works beautifully.

Riis
Click to expand...

100% Correct!

I just bought a Custom Shop '64 Jazz Relic and wasn't about to redrill the body.:rollno: So, I ground off the outer edge of the screw on a bench grinder till it slipped into the Dunlop recess and it worked perfectly!! A Dremel should work just as well!!:cool:
 
#17
On my P-bass the previous owner used DRYWALL screws for stock strap buttons.

I purchased some dunlop strap locks and the screw that came with them wouldnt even grab...just fell right out. I used the toothpick idea last night

I used gorrilla glue and 3 tooth picks. Wetted the ends of the toothpicks and then put some glue on them...stuck them in the hole then put more glue in the hole itself. I let it dry over night. I woke up to find the glue had expanded and had come out of the hole and there was a huge glob with three toothpicks sticking out. No problem...just snapped the picks off flush and the glob went with it.

I screwed the screw in.....wow! Tighter than a vir....well u get the idea.

thanks for the idea

Dr. B
 
#18
ProfGumby said:
Huh. I've just plowed the Dunlop screw into the hole. I use a wee bit of bar soap on the threads and drive it in. Never an issue, never a crack and never had one pull out yet.
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TheMutt said:
Big +1 to soaping the screw & using the correct screwdriver. I replaced the strap buttons on my MIM Jazz with Dunlop straplocks with no need to redrill the hole. Been that way for about six years and haven't seen any problems.
Click to expand...

Same here and Ive done it on all my basses w/o drilling... the key is proper sized phillips driver for the screw (ime) because they will strip otherwise!
 
#19
Soon2AdjustYou said:
On my P-bass the previous owner used DRYWALL screws for stock strap buttons.

I purchased some dunlop strap locks and the screw that came with them wouldnt even grab...just fell right out. I used the toothpick idea last night

I used gorrilla glue and 3 tooth picks. Wetted the ends of the toothpicks and then put some glue on them...stuck them in the hole then put more glue in the hole itself. I let it dry over night. I woke up to find the glue had expanded and had come out of the hole and there was a huge glob with three toothpicks sticking out. No problem...just snapped the picks off flush and the glob went with it.

I screwed the screw in.....wow! Tighter than a vir....well u get the idea.

thanks for the idea

Dr. B
Click to expand...

Glad it worked out for you but Gorilla Glue would never be my bonding agent of choice. An alternative would be a round toothpick dipped in either marine epoxy or JB Weld. Insert in the hole, wipe off the excess, trim the toothpick, and allow to cure. Drill a narrow pilot hole (I use my Dremel) and you're good to go. The drill bit will follow the path of the softer toothpick without risk of "skipping". The hardened epoxy can be tapped with re-insertion of the screw.

Riis
 
#20
Zooberwerx said:
Glad it worked out for you but Gorilla Glue would never be my bonding agent of choice. An alternative would be a round toothpick dipped in either marine epoxy or JB Weld. Insert in the hole, wipe off the excess, trim the toothpick, and allow to cure. Drill a narrow pilot hole (I use my Dremel) and you're good to go. The drill bit will follow the path of the softer toothpick without risk of "skipping". The hardened epoxy can be tapped with re-insertion of the screw.

Riis
Click to expand...

Dang. You are the Jedi master of this technique! :D
 

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