Help with String Choice for C# Standard

[General Maestro]

I have a new bass and am looking for advice on what strings to put on it. In my current band I play in C# standard tuning. I am currently using a 4 string P bass with 5 string set of DR nickel Lo-Rider 120 100 80 60 and I am finding the tension is too much. I think this was an over correct from when I tried downtuning rotosound swingbass strings and didn't care for the floppiness at all - even when just down a half step. So I am looking for a just right solution.

Talkbass searches have lead to DR DDT or Kalium as potential solutions.

The new bass has thunderbird pickups which I understand would favor a hex core for best tone. I am not concerned about modifying the nut as the bass has already been heavily modified.

Would a 110 in the DDT set be the right way to go for solid tone without floppiness or would 115 be enough of a tension break to get more life back in the strings?

I play fairly aggressive with a pick in a hardcore/punk/heavy rock type style.

Any advice would be appreciated. Pull weight and gauge/tension formulas have my head spinning a bit and I am hoping there is somebody out there that can help advise my specific scenario better than the other threads I have found through searching.

Thank you Talkbass

 

[Dadum]

Calculator for strings
Stringjoy Guitar String Tension Calculator

Select bass guitar
4 strings (or 5 strings if easier for you)
34” scale
Select notes and change gauge if you want for a somewhat uniform tension across the 4 strings. Etc.
Ordering a custom set isn’t that expensive.

You can estimate how tension feels by using your current string size and modifying the tuning note to match a calculated tension of your custom set. Then you can get a ballpark idea if you want to go up/down in string thickness

 

[HelpImaRock]

I use LaBella 49-109 Deep Talkin' Flats for this. I do not have a recommendation for rounds however.

 

[4stringfarley]

I think the 110s would do you well. I’m using 45-105 for drop C any looser and I would go up a gauge.

 

[General Maestro]

Thank you for sharing the calculator. It looks like the 115 set would put tension around 45 lbs for the higher strings. I would think that the DDT set at 110 with a pull at just under 40 lbs would play better given the marketing behind the string design.

I will experiment with the tuning of the current Lo-Rider strings this evening.

Is it possible that a 110 set would not require much adjusting at the nut of a bass set up with 105s?

 

[Dadum]

27415951[/URL], member: 395014"]Thank you for sharing the calculator. It looks like the 115 set would put tension around 45 lbs for the higher strings. I would think that the DDT set at 110 with a pull at just under 40 lbs would play better given the marketing behind the string design.

I will experiment with the tuning of the current Lo-Rider strings this evening.

Is it possible that a 110 set would not require much adjusting at the nut of a bass set up with 105s?

As far as the calculations, can you post a screen shot of what you chose? It’s easier to communicate if we see what you’ve chosen.

What are the string sizes for the prior (floppy) rotosounds?

 

[General Maestro]

These are the guages I am leaning towards in the DDT line up. Hoping that the design philosophy would keep the feel solid.



These are the Rotosound strings I tried. It is possible that I am just a better pic player now but I recall them feeling like I needed to baby them a little. I have since gotten a proper set up for my tuning and maybe that would have solved the issue on its own?

 

[Dadum]

If you use the calculator and change the string to B at 120 (your current string), you can get an 31.3, which I’d close to your custom string. Tune the 100 string to a slightly sharp E, and you get close to your custom set’s tension. If you make adjustments for all the strings, you can get an approximate feeling of what the custom set could feel like. Tuning will be funky and the calculator is made for the manufacturer’s strings, but you may find you prefer a different tension. You can also put the rotosounds back on and detune to get a desired tension and verify a certain tension is preferred.

Your selected tensions seem low to me but I’ve never tried them that way…

YMMV.

 

[Riff Ranger]

Thank you for sharing the calculator. It looks like the 115 set would put tension around 45 lbs for the higher strings. I would think that the DDT set at 110 with a pull at just under 40 lbs would play better given the marketing behind the string design.

I will experiment with the tuning of the current Lo-Rider strings this evening.

Is it possible that a 110 set would not require much adjusting at the nut of a bass set up with 105s?

Do you know approximately how much tension you like per string? If not, find an instrument where you like the feel and sound; note the gauges and tuning; and enter the values into the calculator shared above (different strings will have different real world results, but at least with hex core nickel roundwounds I have found the measured tension doesn’t vary a whole lot between brands).

For example, if you like how a fairly typical .105/.085/.065/.045 set feels in EADG, you’d want something like .055/.075/.095/.125 for similar tension in C#F#BE.

This doesn’t necessarily mean balanced sound between strings or up and down the fretboard; some sets that appear unbalanced in terms of tension might sound or feel more even. Balanced isn’t necessarily better, anyway. Finally, tension and stiffness are two different things.

For another example, I seem to like what most would call floppy strings, around 30–35 pounds of tension per string. I’ve been using Slinky singles in .125/.095/.075/.055 for BEAD. Their objective tension is balanced, their subjective feel is also balanced, but the .125 seems to overpower the other strings. I’ve been trying the heavy Boomers set (.115/.095/.070/.050) on some instruments. These are objectively less balanced and slightly lower tension overall, but apparently greater stiffness (and if there’s an objective measure of stiffness, I don’t know it). The .095 does feel a bit different from the other strings, though not as dramatically as in a number of standard sets. The output and sound seem more balanced from string to string. And while the tension of the Boomers is measurably lower than the Slinkies, neither set seems “floppier.”

 

[stigbeve]

I've use these for C# standard tuning for about 7 years now.

 

[Riff Ranger]

Is it possible that a 110 set would not require much adjusting at the nut of a bass set up with 105s?

I meant to respond to this part specifically before distracting myself. In my experience, a standard 4-string nut will accommodate up to .120 without trouble. I’ve even had .125 work on one while the nut came unglued on another.

 

[General Maestro]

Thank you all for the helpful responses. I think it is between the Heavy Boomers and the DDT 115-55 set. The Boomers seem to be a favorite amongst the Thunderbird crowd. If they neither require modifying the nut I may just get both.

The comment regarding gauge/tension vs apparent stiffness is a very helpful perspective.

Would the DDT set last longer?

I will finally have a chance to play with the tension on my current bass today and will report back.

 

[Riff Ranger]

I do have the .115/.095/.075/.055 DDTs on yet another BEAD bass and nickel Stringjoys in .055/.070/.095/.120 on still another I tried this particular set of DDTs a few years ago for CGCF on a dark-sounding P bass, didn’t like it in any way, set it aside, put it back on in BEAD the other day, and they still sound brand new (still not sure they’re for me, but the drop in tension between the .115 and the rest of the strings is less pronounced in BEAD than in CGCF). I chose the gauges for the Stringjoys before they corrected their tension calculator—.055/.075/.095/.125 has balanced tension in BEAD—but I think the .120 evens out better in terms of output anyway. I have those on an absolutely thrashed Peavey Fury with a bright super ferrite pickup, and they seem like a good match.

One important thing to know about any subjective opinions I express about strings is that I strongly prefer the feel of nickel to steel, so bear that in mind. I certainly like how a lot of other players sound using steel strings but I can’t stand to touch them long enough to get into playing them myself! Some players react to nickel and prefer steel for that reason. String choice is highly subjective and personal; I think many users here have latched onto balanced tension because it’s one variable we can objectively measure.

 

[General Maestro]

I stopped and picked up some Heavy Boomers on the way home last night. Set up will need a little adjusting. The 115 low string is a little loose but the output is more even than the 120 I was previously playing. I can see why these strings are popular with the Thunderbird crowd.

I will have a chance to try them in a mix tomorrow and am pretty sure they will work at least for the life of the strings. Great attack and punchy tone. They fit in the nut without issue too. Will report back after rehearsal tomorrow.

 

[Dadum]

Sounds like progress is being made. By setup, do you mean truss rod, action and bridge intonation? Slight changes that increase the string length that vibrates while maintaining the same pitch increases tension very slightly. I’m not sure if you will feel the difference but you could try.

 

[General Maestro]

So many new variables today. It is hard to know what to attribute to strings. The output was sooo much more even today. I sat in the mix without ever standing out but could always discern pitch clearly. Loved it.

First time with this bass, first rehearsal with a new digital mixer, first rehearsal with a new headphone amp.

Tension issues didn’t really impact my playing. Still interested in trying the DR DDT set next. Also interested in the break in period for the GHS Boomer Heavy set now in use.

I’ll keep the thread rolling as there have been some very helpful and well written comments so far. I ran into short and marginally helpful threads when searching for this niche tuning.