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Higher tension strings

You're going to want to look for anything with a hex core, and possibly even bump up the gauge. Personally, I wouldn't recommend doing both at the same time. In my experience, just switching to a string like Dr Lo-Riders at the same gauge you're playing now will be quite a difference. I can't handle hex cores personally, but if you do a lot of slapping you'll probably like them.
 
Weird how, yet again, most posts don't mention gauge at all. I assume those are suggesting strings that 'feel' tighter to the plucking hand while being the same gauge (and therefore roughly the same tension). Seems people are confusing 'feel' with actual tension.

Do you want the strings to actually be tighter (scientifically, more 'tension')? or to have the same tension but only 'feel' tighter to the plucking hand? (therefore no adjusting of truss rod needed).
If you want a higher tension then you need to increase the gauges, brand is fairly irrelevant to this, trying a different brand may only change the 'feel' under the plucking hand. If you like your current brand then just use the next heavier set.
 
If you want a higher tension then you need to increase the gauges, brand is fairly irrelevant to this, trying a different brand may only change the 'feel' under the plucking hand.

Well, not necessarily...

GHS Boomer M3045:

G 045 - 44.8
D 065 - 50.1
A 085 - 49.4
E 105 - 42.2

Total 186.5 lbs.

D'Addario EXL165:

G 045 - 42.52
D 065 - 48.35
A 085 - 45.34
E 105 - 38.08

Total 174.29 lbs.

Based on my experience, the Boomers not only do have more "tension" (as in pulling weight), but also are stiffer (playing feel) than the D'A XL Nickels.

Besides, it's safe to assume the OP by "higher tension" is in fact referring to the "stiffness" as in the playing feel.
 
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Besides, it's safe to assume the OP by "higher tension" is in fact referring to the "stiffness" as in the playing feel.

That's what I was referring to. How stiff it felt under my plucking hand. I hate the strings that feel kinda floppy when you start to dig in at all. There are some new strings with a great feel on a bass I just got from Reverb but it was set up at the shop I bought it from so I don't know what they used. I'll have to try and contact them.
 
I just wanted to add my 2 cents ... If you are not opposed to tapered strings over the bridge, give Pedulla strings a try. I use them on all my Warwick basses (all 5 string). They have a very solid, higher tension without feeling like tight as Sadowsky Black Label strings. I also feel they have the best low B tone, regardless of scale length. I'm not sponsored by Pedulla, just a happy customer. :-)
 
I'm looking for some ideas of higher tension strings. I've got some Regular Slinky's on right now but for some reason they feel kinda 'floppy'. What are some higher tension strings you use or know of?
I use elixer .45-.105 exclusively. When the teflon coating wears off you still have the lifetime of a brand new stainless set to go through so theyre a bargain. The one best trick i can say about strings is wash your hands with soap and water EVERY time before you play, and make anyone who wants to play your gutars do the same. I also wash with soap and water at every break during the gig.
 
I don't understand what you mean. From what I'm gathering, you're saying that if I like the Regular Slinky's I'm using now, I can get the same string and gauge at a higher tension?
I thought i wanted the same. So i experimented, i took the wood bass i built, and strung it with the top 5 strings from a 5 string set. .135-.105-.85-.65-.45. these in turn had to be tightened up 2 1/2 steps to get a concert pitch E A D G. Imagine for a mi ute the tension on this neck. A fender or any other would have exploded. I did get the heavy thump i wanted but my fingers couldnt slide or bend anything. Moral being, just play what you got and adjust the amp for more lows. Cant believe my homemade bass....well....yes i can survived this torture!!! Not worth the trip at all unless you build your own.
 
Well, not necessarily...

GHS Boomer M3045:

G 045 - 44.8
D 065 - 50.1
A 085 - 49.4
E 105 - 42.2

Total 186.5 lbs.

D'Addario EXL165:

G 045 - 42.52
D 065 - 48.35
A 085 - 45.34
E 105 - 38.08

Total 174.29 lbs.

Based on my experience, the Boomers not only do have more "tension" (as in pulling weight), but also are stiffer (playing feel) than the D'A XL Nickels.

Besides, it's safe to assume the OP by "higher tension" is in fact referring to the "stiffness" as in the playing feel.

Good day sir,
Will the tension of a Fender stainless FLATWOUND med light set .050 - .100 be almost the same as a DR Stainless ROUNDWOUND .045 - .105 set?
Do you think the difference of .005 in string gauge in both the G and E strings will give us the same tension?
Thank you very much.
 
Will the tension of a Fender stainless FLATWOUND med light set .050 - .100 be almost the same as a DR Stainless ROUNDWOUND .045 - .105 set?
Do you think the difference of .005 in string gauge in both the G and E strings will give us the same tension?

No tension info (pulling weight) either for the Fender flats or the DR Rounds, so it's hard to say...

The difference in gauges are only a small part of the whole equation when comparing hex-core flats and round-core rounds (assuming you're referring to the Hi-Beams). That said, the Fender flats would definitely feel stiffer overall, not to mention the 50-100 set (9050ML) wound be uneven with tight G and D with a relatively loose G. Based on my experience, the Fender 9050L (45-60-80-100) would have similar stiffness as a typical HEX-CORE rounds of 45-65-85-105.
 
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Well, not necessarily...
Yeah my mistake for under-emphasising this, for the same gauge, different constructions can change actual tension to a degree.
What i mean is, to change actual tension, think first about gauges instead of brands.

The 'feel' to the plucking hand is a combination of actual tension and stiffness, so actual tension is still very important and a bigger factor than stiffness. So you have a choice of how to increase the perceived 'tension': by gauge, by string line (construction / stiffness) or by both. However gauge (specifically, string mass) is the main factor.
 
No tension info (pulling weight) either for the Fender flats or the DR Rounds, so it's hard to say...

The difference in gauges are only a small part of the whole equation when comparing hex-core flats and round-core rounds (assuming you're referring to the Hi-Beams). That said, the Fender flats would definitely feel stiffer overall, not to mention the 50-100 set (9050ML) wound be uneven with tight G and D with a relatively loose G. Based on my experience, the Fender 9050L (45-60-80-100) would have similar stiffness as a typical HEX-CORE rounds of 45-65-85-105.

Thank you very much. since the difference in tension pull is not very significant, I will install my Fender Flatwound MLs (.050-.100) to replace my DR Hi Beams and see for myself, I hope it doesn't affect the neck relief much on my Fender '72 Jazz Bass.
And if it feels great I will leave them on if not I can always go back to a brand new DR Hi Beams .045 - .105 stainless roundwound set. Cheers.
 
While we gave some discussion in this thread about tension and feel, I want to put a question out there.....
In your opinion (or knowledge), would a 45-105 set of round core(hi beams) have the same "feel" and "flexibility" as a 40-100 set of hex core(lo riders) but just have more tension on the neck?
 
In your opinion (or knowledge), would a 45-105 set of round core(hi beams) have the same "feel" and "flexibility" as a 40-100 set of hex core(lo riders) but just have more tension on the neck?

My experience is with the Sunbeams (NPS rounds on a round core) 45-105 and the Nickel Lo-Riders (NPS rounds on a hex core) 40-100.

I found the SBs to be a bit more flexible despite the larger gauges, in fact too loose-feeling for my taste, , while the NLRs provided just enough firmness not to go all bouncy under the plucking fingers without being overly too stiff.
 
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In your opinion (or knowledge), would a 45-105 set of round core(hi beams) have the same "feel" and "flexibility" as a 40-100 set of hex core(lo riders) but just have more tension on the neck?
I found the SBs to be a bit more flexible despite the larger gauges, in fact too loose-feeling for my taste, , while the NLRs provided just enough firmness not to go all bouncy under the plucking fingers without being overly too stiff.
I confirm. I had exactly the same experience with the Hi-Beams versus the Lo-Riders. I also found the former to be a bit more flexible despite the larger gauges.
 
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