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Hipshot bridge for Epiphone Jack Casady Bass
- Thread starter Wilson_D
- Start date
WOW! Loos awesome!!
There is one for sale where I live. I'm looking to check it out here this weekend if he still has it, which I think he may. Not too many bassists on Oahu, let alone bass players that are willing to dish out a few hundred dollars for a bass. I love the bridge. I think it fits the look much better. The other one seemed lacking but Hipshot definitely made it look very retro. Upon purchasing this bass, hopefully, I will be ordering the bridge.
There is one for sale where I live. I'm looking to check it out here this weekend if he still has it, which I think he may. Not too many bassists on Oahu, let alone bass players that are willing to dish out a few hundred dollars for a bass. I love the bridge. I think it fits the look much better. The other one seemed lacking but Hipshot definitely made it look very retro. Upon purchasing this bass, hopefully, I will be ordering the bridge.
Going to bring this thread back from the dead. I really love the tone of my Jack Casady with the stock bridge, but would love the convenience of the hipshot (and I happen to have one kicking about), but I'm really worried about losing that great hollow body tone. Any once care to chime in on their hipshot experiences with the JC?
How would you lose the hollow body tone? It’s just a better bridge for intonation.
You lose none of the sound of the body. You get a better sorted out sound due to less vibration in that three point contraption plus intonation and individual string height adjustments are a dream. Trust me. I loved my Casady/Supertone.
I actually Googled info about this because the bridge posts on mine are coming out as well. I had them glued back in and they only lasted until the next time I restrung it. :/ Now they're pulling out again. Am I doing something wrong to make it happen so soon? And does the Silvertone not have this problem as much? I'm the 3rd owner of this bass and it's been around the block.
When this happened on my (then) brand new 20th Anniversary Edition, I used super glue gel. Put a small amount on the wood after pulling out the post; reinserted the post so it was seated properly and never looked back! Haven't move a mm since!
Don't worry - it will! I, too, love this instrument, and the first one I had, a '99 Silver Burst, made in Korea, not China, had none of these issues! All in all, though, I can't tell any difference in playability or sound!
I’m new a JCB owner, just got a 20th Aniv yesterday. Coming from decades of using Fender type basses its quite a change tone wise, but i must admit i cant put it down at the moment. Just love the retro vibe this bass has, without sounding dull and weak.
Until 3 days ago i hated the look of this bass and had no interest whatsoever. Now ive seen the light lol.
Anyway, I’m here about the bridge as well. Out of the box the action was about 4mm, very high. As soon as i tried to lower it the G side bridge post popped out. I’d seen all the tips so i just super glued it back. In a panic i also ordered a black Supertone. Love the look and love the fact you can change the saddle heights. In the meantime ive got the stock bridge just right, and although I find sitting down playing the bass really uncomfortable and fatiguing, the neck and action is almost spot on. I had considered not changing it but i do like the look of black hardware.
So, i have a couple of questions that i cant see anwaserewd in this thread.
1. How tight do i need to screw the new bridge down. I understand that due to the curved top ill need some felt under the outher edges, but if i screw it down too tight will it crack the finish on the top? I’m guessing not as no one has mentioned this, but wanted to check first.
2. Is the Hipshot less likely to pull off the body like the stock bridge does? Although ive glued it back i dont have 100% confidence in it now, especially not for gigging. Ive read where its comes loose again after gluing. I’d like more piece of mind that i wont have to take a back up with me..
Until 3 days ago i hated the look of this bass and had no interest whatsoever. Now ive seen the light lol.
Anyway, I’m here about the bridge as well. Out of the box the action was about 4mm, very high. As soon as i tried to lower it the G side bridge post popped out. I’d seen all the tips so i just super glued it back. In a panic i also ordered a black Supertone. Love the look and love the fact you can change the saddle heights. In the meantime ive got the stock bridge just right, and although I find sitting down playing the bass really uncomfortable and fatiguing, the neck and action is almost spot on. I had considered not changing it but i do like the look of black hardware.
So, i have a couple of questions that i cant see anwaserewd in this thread.
1. How tight do i need to screw the new bridge down. I understand that due to the curved top ill need some felt under the outher edges, but if i screw it down too tight will it crack the finish on the top? I’m guessing not as no one has mentioned this, but wanted to check first.
2. Is the Hipshot less likely to pull off the body like the stock bridge does? Although ive glued it back i dont have 100% confidence in it now, especially not for gigging. Ive read where its comes loose again after gluing. I’d like more piece of mind that i wont have to take a back up with me..
Tighten the post screws to snug - not 'finger tight'; I used a drop of blue lock tite. If you try and really torque down the screws, it will spin the insert, and then you'll really be in deep s*$t! What glue did you use? I used super glue gel, and I have had absolutely no issues since then. Don't be nervous about it pulling out again; if it was going to, it would already have!
Thanks thats good info. Yes i used super glue and ive played it for a good 5 hours since and its not budged. I might hold off putting the new bridge on as it feels so nice as it is.
Sorry, one other thing, is there an earthing wire? I’m getting quite a bit of buzz when i plug in to my Zoom B1on or TCE Spectradrive when using mains, although the B1 is fine just on batteries, and anything plugged in to my pedal board is fine (so I’m good for gigs). I read the G side bridge post is where its earthier but i didnt see anything in the hole sticking out when i glued the bushel in.
Sorry, one other thing, is there an earthing wire? I’m getting quite a bit of buzz when i plug in to my Zoom B1on or TCE Spectradrive when using mains, although the B1 is fine just on batteries, and anything plugged in to my pedal board is fine (so I’m good for gigs). I read the G side bridge post is where its earthier but i didnt see anything in the hole sticking out when i glued the bushel in.
I don’t get it. I haven’t had the problem of inserts pulling out and that’s on two basses: a Epi tbird i had for two years and my JC going on two years.
I attribute this to tilting the bridge up by raising the front bolt. It changes the fulcrum point thereby lessening the leverage on the back bolts. Or so it seems.
There’s something i like about the stock bridge and can live without the saddle height adjustment. The JC plays beautifully as is.
I attribute this to tilting the bridge up by raising the front bolt. It changes the fulcrum point thereby lessening the leverage on the back bolts. Or so it seems.
There’s something i like about the stock bridge and can live without the saddle height adjustment. The JC plays beautifully as is.
I never did on my Jack Casady Silverburst made in Korea; but did on the Chinese made one! AS I mentioned earlier, except for that and a minor paint flaw (missing some black paint on the edge of the 'F' holes), the Chinese made is indistinguishable from the Korean made one!
I must admit since i adjusted the stock bridge I have no issues with set up now. Saying that, i do have the new black Supertone so I’m going to at least give it a go this week. I love how easy it is to change the bridges on the bass without having to reset everything each time after the first fit.
Thread resurrection…
Bought a used (looked new!) JCB a year ago. New to the Epi/Gib 3point design so read how to adjust. Do all my own work on each of my basses except the double rods in the neck of my ‘74 4001 (note that with the ol’Ric I am very familiar with “interesting” bridge designs).
So changed one set of strings (to flats), then again to rounds. No issues, but have to say this 3 point design is fairly fiddlefriggy by comparison to anything else. You need to be careful - like you’re changing a mouse trap that can snap at any moment. All was well.
Yesterday I changed to flats again (settled on DR’s flats sound/feel best flats on the JCB, for me) Again, nothing flew apart on this change either. But I needed to lower the action a tad. Neck is perfect (from last years adjustments). I did so gradually, with 1/4 turns and kept the front pin tilted up properly as described by NASA for this special bridge…
Up pops the E side post. I slack everything back a bit, and tap it in. Turn a little tension on the string again, just a little too, and up it pops. “So!” says I, “it’s true what I’ve read about this weird contraption after all.”
So a tip for glueing these stupid things back in (which you just shouldn’t have to do with any bridge design IMHO): 1) cut a piece of newspaper the width of the bushing (that you’ve pulled the rest of the way put).
2) Spread a thin layer of carpenter’s glue over the paper strip (yep, paper mache)
3) tightly wrap it around the pin and tap it in. Let it set up and hope that’s the last of your old fashioned luthier work for this contraption.
Hipshot’s sensible bridge certainly came to mind - immediately.
Bought a used (looked new!) JCB a year ago. New to the Epi/Gib 3point design so read how to adjust. Do all my own work on each of my basses except the double rods in the neck of my ‘74 4001 (note that with the ol’Ric I am very familiar with “interesting” bridge designs).
So changed one set of strings (to flats), then again to rounds. No issues, but have to say this 3 point design is fairly fiddlefriggy by comparison to anything else. You need to be careful - like you’re changing a mouse trap that can snap at any moment. All was well.
Yesterday I changed to flats again (settled on DR’s flats sound/feel best flats on the JCB, for me) Again, nothing flew apart on this change either. But I needed to lower the action a tad. Neck is perfect (from last years adjustments). I did so gradually, with 1/4 turns and kept the front pin tilted up properly as described by NASA for this special bridge…
Up pops the E side post. I slack everything back a bit, and tap it in. Turn a little tension on the string again, just a little too, and up it pops. “So!” says I, “it’s true what I’ve read about this weird contraption after all.”
So a tip for glueing these stupid things back in (which you just shouldn’t have to do with any bridge design IMHO): 1) cut a piece of newspaper the width of the bushing (that you’ve pulled the rest of the way put).
2) Spread a thin layer of carpenter’s glue over the paper strip (yep, paper mache)
3) tightly wrap it around the pin and tap it in. Let it set up and hope that’s the last of your old fashioned luthier work for this contraption.
Hipshot’s sensible bridge certainly came to mind - immediately.
It seems to me that the Hipshot bridge is originally designed to sit flat on an EB3 type body, placing it parallel to the neck of the bass. When installing one on a JCB (as I have just done) putting the recommended small felt pads under the back of the bridge due to the curvature of the body still leaves the bridge tilting back, which means that the string height adjustments need to be made much higher than would be the case on a flat-bodied bass. To remedy this I have put larger pads on the back to get the bridge assembly to be parallel with the neck. This allows much lower height adjustments to be made and looks much better (to my old eyes). The one drawback I have noticed is that, after screwing the bolts in, the inserts have been pulled out a bit from the body of the bass (as some have reported here), so I am going to have to glue them back in. Apart from that, the bridge is excellent. So, so, so much better than the ancient design of the original. I love it.
Set the front height screw SLIGHTLY higher than the rear two. This will angle the bridge plate and change the angle of the force of the strings trying to lever the back pins up and out. Five years I've had my JC and no sign of the bushings pulling out. It's science.
Yes, that ^. In my limited sample of 3 or 4 basses that are perfectly happy with the original 3 point Epi bridge (I’m a cave man, so what!) I’ve adjusted them that way and not had a bushing pull out so far.
