Hipshot Bridge - String height & Intonation adjustments

[Play4U]

Good Day - Keepn' It Low lovers

I recently purchased and installed a Hipshot Highmass bridge onto a Fender Jazz Bass Deluxe Series (Mexico). The removal of the original bridge; installed the Hipshot bridge (style " B ") and the installation was smooth as expected.

Because I own multiple bass guitars, I am of the believe that if I learn to setup my guitars, I could dial in each MY personal touch, feel and taste.

I followed the recommended step-procedure:

1) TRUSS ROD adjustment - Because I like low action I set my fret/fingerboard flat to level all existing frets; I used a .008"/20mm gauge; capoed fret one (1) and measured at the 12th fret.

2) RADIUS (R) of STRING ACTION: Fretboard R=12"

3) ACTION of STRING adjustment: Target: "E" string - 0.085" & "G" string - 0.075". Procedure: With bass tuned to pitch and fret 1 capoed I measured both strings at the 12 fret (Top-of-fret to Bottom-of-string). For the "E" string, the height measurement should have landed between lines .08 & .09, and the "G" string measurement should have landed between lines .07 &.08; However, both landed slightly above the .14 measurement.

I was able to lower all bridge saddles to where they were approximately 0.002" above the bridge base and that was still too high. I made sure that there was a string break-over at both the nut and saddle. With all of that, I was still unable to get the string action to the recommended starting point and adjust up or down from there.

3) NUT HEIGHT adjustment: Not adjusted!

4) INTONATION adjustment: On the Hipshot that I received, from the factory, all four of the intonation saddles were set nearest the bridge pickup and very slightly staggered backward.

Using my Peterson Tuner, I tuned my bass (open strings) to pitch. All strings measured between plus (+) 18-22 percent SHARP. I adjusted the "E" saddle back as far as possible, remeasured, and got a 12 percent sharp reading. I lengthened the other strings and received a similar percentage reading.

5) PICKUP HEIGHT adjustment: This will be performed after obtaining the proper string action and intonation.

With the above explained my concerns and questions are:
A) Does anyone have a reasonable recommendation(s) or suggestion (s) to lower the saddles? - (see "Action of Strings adjustment" above)

B) Does anyone have a reasonable recommendation(s) or suggestion (s) to adjust the intonation? - (see "Intonation adjustment" above)

Thanks in advance for taking time from Your busy schedules and please reply here and to a private email address: [email protected] if You would...Please!!!

Thanks again and have a good day.

Play4U

 

[JKos]

Can you post a picture, please.

You have two choices for the saddle height issue. File/sand the bottom of the saddles or shim the neck.

When adjusting the intonation, you are retuning the string before checking the intonation, correct?

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Sounds like the neck needs a shim. Not uncommon when going from a bent plate bridge to one with a thicker base.

On the intonation issue, have you set the witness points? Search witness points in this forum. There are several good threads.

 

[SharpCat]

If there are saddles that weren’t moved on the old bridge while it was removed, can compare the distance from the underside of the bridge (where it contacts the body) to the top of the saddle, to the same measurement on the new bridge. That can confirm you’re comparing the same geometry and everything got installed correctly.

 

[Play4U]

Thanks for the quick, honest, and forthright replies gentlemen.

JKos: I once saw a video on YouTube of a bassist filing saddles using 220 grit sandpaper. I've considered that method to lower the string height to improve the action or playability. I had not thought about shimming the neck. Question: Is there a maximum/minimum shim thickness and what material is recommended?

JKos, You asked When adjusting the intonation, if I am retuning the string before checking the intonation. Yes, I am retuning, using a Peterson tuner. Thanks again JKos.

Matt: Thanks for the feedback. I would also like to have your recommendation(s) for shim material and thickness.

Also, thanks for highlighting the concept of "witness points". As much as I love music, especially music theory and instrument maintenance, I have NEVER, EVER heard of "witness points". I will search the forum to learn about the application of witness points. Thanks Matt.

SharpCat: Thanks for sharing the concept of comparing the saddle location(s) on the old bridge that was removed. I still have the original bridge and thankfully, none of the saddles have been tampered with. I will "compare the distance from the underside of the bridge (where it contacts the body) to the top of the saddle" and if possible, mirror the measurements to the Hipshot bridge.

To recap, my path forward action plan is to:
1) Consider filing/sanding the bottom of the saddle(s) to improve compliance for string
radius and string action to improve playability.
2) Consider shimming the neck. Will also research shim material(s) and thickness (t).
3) I will research "witness points" and it's application to guitar setup.
4) I will compare the distance from the underside of my old bridge (where it contacts the body) to the top of the saddle" and compare the new bridge saddle locations to it.

I will keep YOU up with my findings!!
Play4U

 

[Matt Liebenau]

I’ve seen all sorts of things used for a neck shim. A number of people prefer the full length tapered StewMac shims. I’m very happy with a piece of veneer or playing card that fits the front 1/4 to 1/3 of the neck pocket. Ideally use a material that won’t compress over time.

Look up some of the extensive threads on witness points, I believe Mech had one with lots of pictures. The short version is to press the string down firmly on either side of the bridge saddle, nut and where it enters the tuning key shaft. You want those to be a nice, sharp bend and not an arc. I have seen that fix odd intonation issues like you describe. It’s something the strings eventually kind of do on their own but it helps to set it right at the beginning.

One other note after rereading your initial post. Relief measurements should be taken with the string pressed down at the first fret, typically with a capo, and the fret where the neck joins the body, on a Fender around the 15th, then measure at the 7th fret. I believe your post said you measured at the 12th however the deepest part of the curve is generally around the 7th.