- Feb 26, 2011
- 143
- 112
- 51
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Pyramid Strings
Pyramid also makes a great nylon tape wound. I've used those for a few years with no issues at all.
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Hofner-(not just Beatle Basses)-Group Part 2
- Thread starter Bryan R. Tyler
- Start date
I am not sure which would be best. I have used white tapes on my 68 and loved them. The most important thing is to get medium scale strings, not short scale, and the E should 100 at most.
- Feb 26, 2011
- 143
- 112
- 51
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Pyramid Strings
LaBella makes a black (and white) nylon set for the Hofner much like they do with their regular flats.
I wonder what percentage of Hofner basses are made by Thomas Stuhlein? Two of mine are made by him.
You/He could also go with Pyramid's mild gimmick - the 648/RT ("Rooftop '69") black nylon set, with long yellow silks so that they look like the Rotosounds Tru Bass tapes that Paul McCartney actually used:
Pyramid Strings Unveil New Short Scale String Sets
https://www.thomannmusic.com/pyramid_648_rooftop.htm
[By the way, I have no idea what the silk colour is on the ordinary Pyramid 648 tapewounds. Some say red, some say gold/orange (I've seen pics of both, but they were custom-length sets: the one with red silks was extra-long, and the orange/gold one was uke-bass sized).
Have you got a pic of yours, @WannaBeatle?]
- Feb 26, 2011
- 143
- 112
- 51
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Pyramid Strings
- Feb 26, 2011
- 143
- 112
- 51
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Pyramid Strings
One quirk on my '64 500/1 is the slightly misplaced tailpiece maybe, a rush job at the factory trying to get the order out who knows. I have never thought about trying to remove the 2 nails & strap pin, and relining it but here's my thoughts on doing it.
I'm nervous about snapping one of the nails as they've been in there almost 60 years, and if they did come out easily would there be enough of a wood block to tap them back in?
Should I just leave it alone, what are your thoughts ?,thanks in advance.
I'm nervous about snapping one of the nails as they've been in there almost 60 years, and if they did come out easily would there be enough of a wood block to tap them back in?
Should I just leave it alone, what are your thoughts ?,thanks in advance.
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Pet Sounds, I can't say what the percentage of the regular 500/1 series of basses Thomas makes, but I'm sure that he's making all 80 of the Limited Edition 60th Anniversary 500/1-63-60th basses.
TD
After 60 years, I don't think I'd mess with it. You could adjust the bridge to be more parallel with the tailpiece, and it wouldn't be as noticeable. Wouldn't take much.
If you watch the video of the manufacturing process it seems like a lot of hands are on each bass. That is because different people make different parts of the bass. I think Thmas is the last one in the line. He is finally assembly and quality control. I could be wrong, though.
That would make sense. He signed off on my Gold Label and my 5000/1.
Are the strings centered correctly on the neck with the bridge in that position?
When was the last neck reset?
The tailpiece & nut position are the two variables. The neck could also be very slightly off set (downwards or "headstock to the right" in the picture perspective) and can be dealt with at the next reset if it is. A luthier should be able to sort it the next time it is due.
I do see your bridge PU is also shifted flush with the left side of the surround with a larger gap on the right..
I'd check that the strings are centered on the neck first & make sure the bridge is set for that variable, then get the PUs adjusted in the surrounds (the poles do not have to be exactly centered under each string - a Höfner Toaster had 5 pole pieces... align that
) and then see if the neck is correctly set, then consider the tailpiece move as an option. A luthier will be able measure the center point exactly and see what is off (neck or tailpiece). Personally, on a 1964 500/1 I'd leave the job to a (trusted) luthier when you take it in for the next re-set.If the offset is slight and your bridge is shifting, you can rub a bit of violin bow rosin on the base of the bridge. Doesn't "glue it", but stops it from sliding to the right until you have it sorted. I do this on all non pinned floating bridges.
=> "slightly misplaced tailpiece"
It's not that uncommon, I have shifted tailpieces and Bigsbys on a few instruments (e.g. Gibsons & Gretsches), be aware you will probably see a difference in wood color due to the age of yours around the anchor plate if you do.
Never tried pulling the two Höfner tailpiece nails, so no experience... is fine on my '63 Club 60 & close enough on my HCT 500/1.
=> "would there be enough of a wood block to tap them back in?"
See 02:50 on wards:
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@Shawn Luckman
PS: Judging by how far down your bridge is lowered (with one bolt through the bridge), you may be getting near "reset" time (comes with the territory with the older simple neck joints & "high heel" necks). Even at the time of the above video, Höfner was not using high-tech laser measurement tools or parts (e.g. tail pieces) with modern nano tolerances... part of the charm, can be adjusted to be very playable.
The way the fret & nut slots are eyeballed in that video always fascinates me.... I'd be sitting there measuring everything twice or more and muttering/swearing in my best NY English.
PS: Judging by how far down your bridge is lowered (with one bolt through the bridge), you may be getting near "reset" time (comes with the territory with the older simple neck joints & "high heel" necks). Even at the time of the above video, Höfner was not using high-tech laser measurement tools or parts (e.g. tail pieces) with modern nano tolerances... part of the charm, can be adjusted to be very playable.
The way the fret & nut slots are eyeballed in that video always fascinates me.... I'd be sitting there measuring everything twice or more and muttering/swearing in my best NY English.
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NP, my Club (E2 6 string) was last reset in the early/mid 90's and am beginning to notice it will be due again sometime within the next 5-10 years. Fortunately neck resets on the older Höfners and their neck joints are pretty simple & not expensive.
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