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Hofner-(not just Beatle Basses)-Group Part 2

Side Consequence of owning a Hofner - I used to be a huge tube amp guy and felt i had to have those tubes to warm up my sound. well my sound was thin single coils of the fender variety. Playing this hofner for the last 3 years its so friggin' beefy and thick I DON"T NEED NO TUBE AMP! like the hairy wooly loose tube amp is too much with the hofner, it's too loose then. wild stuff. so i'm playing a GK (which i HATED with fenders lol) now. i always felt my previous tone was lacking, i spent hundreds on every string every made, tried different setups (even got a PLEK). Turns out i just needed that fat beefy hofner, no amp/string/etc needed to augment these pickups!

Neck pickup man, it is a monster (in a good way)
 
i found a new 500/7 in trans black, it just needed a minor setup, pyramid flats and it was good to go.

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I got lucky in a local antique/clearance warehouse - it never rains but it pours:
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My daughter also got lucky while we were visiting Liverpool and had booked the tours of Lennon’s and McCartney’s childhood homes. At Lennon’s home she got into a terrible cough. The guide told her she could go into the kitchen, grab a cup and get herself some water!
No photographing allowed in those homes, but for this I just had to sneakily get my phone out.
 

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A few months ago, I bought a Hofner HCT Contemporary Violin Bass with the semi-hollow body. I discovered the balance is very good due to the large wooden bracing inside (no neck dive). And I like the more modern sound from the factory roundwound strings. I prefer the clarity, along with the natural deep tone.
I straightened the neck, leveled and crowned the frets (didn't need much work), and then sanded the bridge on the body over a sheet of paper and a medium grit sandpaper for a tight fit to the body.
After the strings were back on, I adjusted the neck for about .012 inch of relief, set the intonation height, and had to move the G string bridge piece back two slots. The intonation turned out pretty accurate, with the upper D and G string octave frets and above being a priority.
The zero fret was a bit too high, and a small round file brought the strings back down to about .020 inch above the first fret.
For my finger playing style, I needed a thumb rest somewhere between the two pickups, so I decided to make a tall rest from two rosewood rests glued together. With the Hofner strings being so far above the body, a regular thumb rest was not tall enough.
I glued, shaped and finish sanded the rosewood to get the final design right, then sanded the bottom over a protective paper sheet and sandpaper to match the body contour. Several longer stainless screws hold it snug to the body, and fret board oil rubbed into the wood makes it match the bridge.
The custom leather strap took many days to engineer, and now it hangs properly upright instead of wanting to fall forward from the neck strap button. The HCT allows a strap under the neck, so my wrap around design worked perfectly. I used a long leather strip to tie the custom wrap piece to a D'Addario black leather adjustable strap. Works great. Feel free to reproduce it for sale if you like.
The teacup knobs from AllParts PK-3280-000 were the final items added to give it a more authentic look.
This Hofner Bass sounds really good and our soundman prefers it over my Music Man or Yamaha basses for a full yet very clear tone in the house mix.
Jefro.
 

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Last edited:
A few months ago, I bought a Hofner HCT Contemporary Violin Bass with the semi-hollow body. I discovered the balance is very good due to the large wooden bracing inside (no neck dive). And I like the more modern sound from the factory roundwound strings. I prefer the clarity, along with the natural deep tone.
I straightened the neck, leveled and crowned the frets (didn't need much work), and then sanded the bridge on the body over a sheet of paper and a medium grit sandpaper for a tight fit to the body.
After the strings were back on, I adjusted the neck for about .012 inch of relief, set the intonation height, and had to move the G string bridge piece back two slots. The intonation turned out pretty accurate, with the upper D and G string octave frets and above being a priority.
The zero fret was a bit too high, and a small round file brought the strings back down to about .020 inch above the first fret.
For my finger playing style, I needed a thumb rest somewhere between the two pickups, so I decided to make a tall rest from two rosewood rests glued together. With the Hofner strings being so far above the body, a regular thumb rest was not tall enough.
I glued, shaped and finish sanded the rosewood to get the final design right, then sanded the bottom over a protective paper sheet and sandpaper to match the body contour. Several longer stainless screws hold it snug to the body, and fret board oil rubbed into the wood makes it match the bridge.
The custom leather strap took many days to engineer, and now it hangs properly upright instead of wanting to fall forward from the neck strap button. The HCT allows a strap under the neck, so my wrap around design worked perfectly. I used a long leather strip to tie the custom wrap piece to a D'Addario black leather adjustable strap. Works great. Feel free to reproduce it for sale if you like.
The teacup knobs from AllParts PK-3280-000 were the final items added to give it a more authentic look.
This Hofner Bass sounds really good and our soundman prefers it over my Music Man or Yamaha basses for a full yet very clear tone in the house mix.
Jefro.
Great stuff, congrats!
What string action height?
 
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Thanks. So now that brings me to the question, what is considered average action on these? What I have read somewhere (here?) is that it needs 3mm bass / 2.5mm treble, which I tried and kept because it does give my Ignition a good sound with no buzz, but it’s pretty high for me. Straightened the neck (quite) a bit to sort of compensate for the high ‘feel’.
 
Thanks. So now that brings me to the question, what is considered average action on these? What I have read somewhere (here?) is that it needs 3mm bass / 2.5mm treble, which I tried and kept because it does give my Ignition a good sound with no buzz, but it’s pretty high for me. Straightened the neck (quite) a bit to sort of compensate for the high ‘feel’.
I have been able to get my Ignition to 1.15mm for G and 1.40mm for E at 12th fret, so a very low setup is possible. How is the nut on yours? I ended up making a new bone one because the factory plastic nut started to collapse before I could get the slots right.
 
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I have been able to get my Ignition to 1.15mm for G and 1.40mm for E at 12th fret, so a very low setup is possible. How is the nut on yours? I ended up making a new bone one because the factory plastic nut started to collapse before I could get the slots right.
I see, so there’s room for lower action than mine for sure, although don’t think I’d go as low as you -even my electrics are at about 1.6mm.
The nut on mine is the factory plastic one, it looks and feels cheap. Adjusting or replacing it for me would mean having that done by a professional. Which is probably what I’ll do one of these days.
 
My current one will be the same as your old one. Somehow I’ve always suspected it’s hollow.

You have convinced me to get a decent nut installed, together with a setup at the place where I have my guitars set up.

They do it well at that place (they are guitar builders). I just never brought in the Ignition. Being so cheap, I thought I’ll just do the stuff I can kind of do myself, relief, action, pickup height, intonation (well…), and be done with it.

I now realize I want the little guy taken to the level it can get to.
Thanks again.

Edit: your Ignitionn sure looks good with a real nut on it. I salute you for being able to do that.
I seem to spot you got rid of the white letttering on the truss rod cover. I plan to do that as well.
 
To help lower action make sure you go to YouTube and find the backbeat vintage video about sanding the bridge. That will help contact with the shape of the body and resonance and lower action because the bridge won’t be as high.
Yeah I have seen that one. Really want to do that. But for now, even without sanding my bridge can’t go very low without getting buzzy or fret slapping strings. I know how to do a basic setup but on this one it doesn’t seem to work out somehow. And I don’t even want that low of an action.

So I’m hoping it’s the one thing that I can’t do myself: the nut.
Although I also have a slight fear that the neck may be a little off. Relief can differ from bass side to treble side, but on this one the difference seems bigger than I’m used to. Several mm’s.
In that case it might not be worth upgrading too much.