Hofner-(not just Beatle Basses)-Group Part 2

[NoSlapForYou]

True. Or do just the E string, your original idea. Good luck!

Yeah, I'm just assuming I'd still have to buy the whole pack. I know there are places that sell single strings online, but I'm guessing that wouldn't be an option for something as niche as the LaBella Beatle Bass strings.

Kind of also considering trying tapewounds. Never used them before.

 

[Averell]

It's a beautiful, fantastic instrument either way. My only complaint right now is that the low E string is deader than the other strings. They're flats, so in theory there shouldn't be any difference. I can't find anything wrong with the setup either. Wondering if I should just try changing the E string to a different brand and see if that helps? I'm pretty sure it has the "official" Hofner-brand strings on it. I was reading another thread where someone had the same issue and swapped out the E string for a LaBella and had good luck. Worth a shot, I guess? Hoping it's not some larger issue I haven't spotted. It doesn't sound terrible or anything, but it's making me want to play the low E less, which is a bummer. It almost sounds like I'm palm muting even when I'm not.

All that said, this instrument is doing its job. Every time I walk by it and take in its beauty, I have to start playing it. I've played more in the last few days than the previous several weeks combined.

I had the same issue, and it was solved with this post : Hofner-(not just Beatle Basses)-Group Part 2

Unfortunately, the video is no longer available on youtube. It said that the bridge needs to fit perfectly the body. So I bring my bass to a luthier, he glued some sand paper on the body and sanded the bridge. Now my E string sounds glorious, and has much sustain.

Downside is that the bridge must be sanded exactly in the right position, so if I need to change strings for another brand, I may need to sand it again. So choose your strings first.

 

[RomanS]

FWIW, I had the same dead E string problem on my Icon series Club Bass - both with the cheapo Hofner Contemporary flatwounds, as well as with the expensive Pyramid-made Höfner flats. Isn't "dead E" their signature sound...?

On my bass it definitely wasn't a bridge issue, and I solved it by using LaBella 760 FHB2 "Beatle Bass" strings (039-096 gauge). They feel great, and sound glorious, no more "dead E syndrome".

I would have loved to try the Höfner-specific flats Thomastik-Infeld makes (as their JFs are by far my favorite strings on all my other basses), but even though I live in the city where they are made, they are impossible to find here (and their "short scale" strings don't fit - yes, I tried, with the set i have on my Guild Starfire bass).

 

[HaphAsSard]

I would have loved to try the Höfner-specific flats Thomastik-Infeld makes (as their JFs are by far my favorite strings on all my other basses), but even though I live in the city where they are made, they are impossible to find here

For some weird reason, the Thomastik-Infeld JF324H (Jazz Flat, Hoefner) set can only be found online in UK, US, Australian and, interestingly, Czech stores (possibly from a couple more countries too):
Thomastik-Infeld Jazz Nickel Flatwound 43-96 Bass Guitar Strings, Höfner Scale [JF324H]
https://www.andertons.co.uk/thomastik-jazz-bass-for-hofner-bass-set-flatwound/
Thomastik JAZZ FLAT WOUND HOFNER (32") JF324H | České hudební nástroje - chn.cz

 

[NoSlapForYou]

FWIW, I had the same dead E string problem on my Icon series Club Bass - both with the cheapo Hofner Contemporary flatwounds, as well as with the expensive Pyramid-made Höfner flats. Isn't "dead E" their signature sound...?

On my bass it definitely wasn't a bridge issue, and I solved it by using LaBella 760 FHB2 "Beatle Bass" strings (039-096 gauge). They feel great, and sound glorious, no more "dead E syndrome".

I would have loved to try the Höfner-specific flats Thomastik-Infeld makes (as their JFs are by far my favorite strings on all my other basses), but even though I live in the city where they are made, they are impossible to find here (and their "short scale" strings don't fit - yes, I tried, with the set i have on my Guild Starfire bass).

Sounds like I should try a string change first, and if that doesn't work I'll try the bridge sanding.

 

[markjazzbassist]

Sounds like I should try a string change first, and if that doesn't work I'll try the bridge sanding.

congrats on a beautiful bass!! the logo on the upper horn isn't an issue, Hofner did a lot of things non-sequentially. maybe for that week in the shop they put the logo's there, or just that day. they weren't stuck to tradition back then so stuff like that is totally normal. your date range sounds right to me as well, you can view the site below to see other examples. enjoy the bass!

on to the dead e string. I had the issue as well on my 1965, i sanded the bridge down to fit the form of the body and that helped. something else i did that i haven't seen done before (this was probably wrong but oh well), is that the end of the string from the bridge saddle to the tailpiece, it clears the bridge (wood part) on the other strings, but not the E string. the string was touching that wood bridge and i thought this could cause tension and limit sustain. So i sanded away a "channel" or path for the E string so it wasn't touching the wood bridge (string contacts metal saddle and on the way back to the tailpiece is free of obstructions). again i would only do this as a last resort as you can't get it back (you'd have to get a new bridge) but i found this did help as well to give a little more sustain.

this link shows hofner examples through the years

Visitors' Gallery

vintagehofner.co.uk

 

[NoSlapForYou]

congrats on a beautiful bass!! the logo on the upper horn isn't an issue, Hofner did a lot of things non-sequentially. maybe for that week in the shop they put the logo's there, or just that day. they weren't stuck to tradition back then so stuff like that is totally normal. your date range sounds right to me as well, you can view the site below to see other examples. enjoy the bass!

on to the dead e string. I had the issue as well on my 1965, i sanded the bridge down to fit the form of the body and that helped. something else i did that i haven't seen done before (this was probably wrong but oh well), is that the end of the string from the bridge saddle to the tailpiece, it clears the bridge (wood part) on the other strings, but not the E string. the string was touching that wood bridge and i thought this could cause tension and limit sustain. So i sanded away a "channel" or path for the E string so it wasn't touching the wood bridge (string contacts metal saddle and on the way back to the tailpiece is free of obstructions). again i would only do this as a last resort as you can't get it back (you'd have to get a new bridge) but i found this did help as well to give a little more sustain.

this link shows hofner examples through the years

Visitors' Gallery

vintagehofner.co.uk

I'm wondering if the reason people have had success switching to LaBellas when they encountered the dead string problem was because the string is a slightly different thickness or tension and therefore sits differently on the bridge? Just a theory.

Annoyingly, I have a similar issue on my Rickenbacker. My two most expensive basses (by far), and both have a slight nagging issue of a not-quite-right E string.

Anyway, appreciate the insight.

 

[NoSlapForYou]

To be clear, are you all talking about this gap here in the circled area? The interesting thing is that the gap on the high G string seems to be just as large but I'm not noticing any dead string issue there.

I wish that Backbeat channel with the YT video about this still existed. A visual walkthrough would be nice.

 

[markjazzbassist]

I'm wondering if the reason people have had success switching to LaBellas when they encountered the dead string problem was because the string is a slightly different thickness or tension and therefore sits differently on the bridge? Just a theory.

Annoyingly, I have a similar issue on my Rickenbacker. My two most expensive basses (by far), and both have a slight nagging issue of a not-quite-right E string.

Anyway, appreciate the insight.

The bridge saddles are really just pieces of fretwire cut to size. it could be the fret material has a burr or something, might need smoothed/polished. you might need to take a small file and file a circular slot in the fret for the string to sit, if it doesn't already exist. that could be the issue as well.

To be clear, are you all talking about this gap here in the circled area? The interesting thing is that the gap on the high G string seems to be just as large but I'm not noticing any dead string issue there.

I wish that Backbeat channel with the YT video about this still existed. A visual walkthrough would be nice.

View attachment 7285688

yes that's exactly it. the bridge is essentially straight across, however the top of the bass is an archtop, CURVES. the theory is thus: the bridge connects with the body on 50% or less of the surface, causing sympathetic vibrations that cancel/null frequenices. by sanding it down to the correct curvature of the archtop, more surface area, more connection, better transmission of waves/frequencies.

The way backbeat did it, first they taped off where the bridge is located so you know where to put it back, notate sides, front back of bridge with tape. next loosen and remove strings. next you get a piece of sandpaper, make sure it's the same or longer than the length (longest side) of the bridge). place the sandpaper between the Bridge Pickup and Tailpiece. tape it down tightly so it forms to the contour of the archtop. softly pressing down on the bridge you move it between the bridge pickup and tailpiece in the region it's taped off, moving it slowly sands down the inner parts of the bridge to the contour of the archtop. once you get connect across the whole bridge, remove the sandpaper, place the bridge and try it, (don't remove bridge placement tape), you might need to do this a couple times till you get it.

hope that helps

 

[AmpegB15]

What do people think of the new Violin Bass '59 model? Hofner site says it's 59 specs blended with early 60s specs. Has two toaster pickups. I'm thinking of getting one, but see no discussion of this model.

 

[bobsax]

Would love if there was a thread that compared different strings on a violin bass… Can’t find it, but if you know where it is, please link it

 

[bobsax]

 

[Thesis]

Don’t know if this has been discussed before, but the G string of the La Bella 50-100 Beatle Bass set feels much rougher than the other strings. The windings are visibly wider apart, offering a scratchy and rough feel. According to a reaction from La Bella this is done on purpose for better sustain. The 0.45 G string of my GHS Precision Flats set is smooth as glass and offers plenty sustain however. Bit disappointed.

 

[SouthPaul71]

Don’t know if this has been discussed before, but the G string of the La Bella 50-100 Beatle Bass set feels much rougher than the other strings. The windings are visibly wider apart, offering a scratchy and rough feel. According to a reaction from La Bella this is done on purpose for better sustain. The 0.45 G string of my GHS Precision Flats set is smooth as glass and offers plenty sustain however. Bit disappointed.

I have the lighter version of those LaBellas (45-95 or something) on my Hofner and the G is as smooth as the other strings.

 

[bobsax]

It looks like he’s doing the set where the small string is .39… There are four types of the deep, talking bass strings. I think one of them is tape wound black? that doesn’t look like what he’s using though.

 

[SouthPaul71]

It looks like he’s doing the set where the small string is .39… There are four types of the deep, talking bass strings. I think one of them is tape wound black? that doesn’t look like what he’s using though.

You do mean my comment, right? In that case we don’t have to guess anymore. I looked them up now and yes, they are the 39-96, stainless flatwounds, not tape wound. They are the “760FHB2”.

 

[SteveCS]

Have you lot seen the latest Ignition Limited Edition instruments. Not much more $$ than the standard Ignition for what looks like a nice set of upgraded features, including a zero fret, a nice volute behind the nut, less gloss in the finish and pearl tuning keys:

Violin Bass Ignition - HI-VB Series

www.hofner.com

Looks like there is also a new US/Japan exclusive model which also bridges some gaps:

Violin Bass Ignition - HI-500/1 Series

www.hofner.com

 

[SouthPaul71]

Have you lot seen the latest Ignition Limited Edition instruments. Not much more $$ than the standard Ignition for what looks like a nice set of upgraded features, including a zero fret, a nice volute behind the nut, less gloss in the finish and pearl tuning keys:

Violin Bass Ignition - HI-VB Series

www.hofner.com

Looks like there is also a new US/Japan exclusive model which also bridges some gaps:

Violin Bass Ignition - HI-500/1 Series

www.hofner.com

That upgraded Ignition is exactly what I’d be looking for. Couldn’t seem to find the lefty version though..

 

[RomanS]

If they do a Club Bass version of that, I'll be first in line!

 

[SteveCS]

If they do a Club Bass version of that, I'll be first in line!

Thoses were my initial thoughts. Alas, no Club!!