My Hofner Ignition Club Pro weighs 5.2 lb, and the balance is very good.
Did I tell you it's green?
I'm in luv, man.
Did I tell you it's green?
I'm in luv, man.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Hofner-(not just Beatle Basses)-Group Part 2
- Thread starter Bryan R. Tyler
- Start date
Hofner Ignition Club Pro (recent release that comes with flats), about the stock flats:
I have not searched to see what others have said about them, but after hearing them and then replacing them with La Bella DTB 760FHB2 39-96, my opinion is that the stock flats that came on this Hofner Ignition (about 45-105) are the worst strings by far of any I've ever seen. I guess because the outer winding(s) have so much friction, they just bent to where they're put and stay there, with very little spring back, like some kind of cheap plastic. Never seen anything like it!
Could it be by design, for extreme, exaggerated thump? It's possible but I suspect very few people would prefer them. Oh, let me know if you disagree.
It's no big deal because I would have changed them anyway.
I have not searched to see what others have said about them, but after hearing them and then replacing them with La Bella DTB 760FHB2 39-96, my opinion is that the stock flats that came on this Hofner Ignition (about 45-105) are the worst strings by far of any I've ever seen. I guess because the outer winding(s) have so much friction, they just bent to where they're put and stay there, with very little spring back, like some kind of cheap plastic. Never seen anything like it!
Could it be by design, for extreme, exaggerated thump? It's possible but I suspect very few people would prefer them. Oh, let me know if you disagree.
It's no big deal because I would have changed them anyway.
Last edited:
Continuation of previous post...
It is possible that this friction between the windings is intended to act as a built-in mute, as it certainly does, so I could be wrong about them being so bad, and welcome any correction.
Some surface texture on the E string about equal to TIJF.
Other strings have that same texture, so rougher than TIJFs.
Silks on both ends, medium blue.
It is possible that this friction between the windings is intended to act as a built-in mute, as it certainly does, so I could be wrong about them being so bad, and welcome any correction.
Some surface texture on the E string about equal to TIJF.
Other strings have that same texture, so rougher than TIJFs.
Silks on both ends, medium blue.
I am not sure exactly what you are referring to, so my remarks may be off. Are you saying the silks are resting in the nut? That has not been my experience when I buy strings fitted for Hofners, but it has happened with basic short-scales strings.
No.
You know the kind of lamp with a long neck that's made of steel coiled into a tube, such that you can bend the lamp to where you want it aim it and it will stay?
Well, these strings (the stock set of flats that came on my Club Ignition Pro) have so much friction (between the layers of windings?) that the E string held in the hand will stick where you bend it, like that.
I think it's horrible (but to be polite I'm giving the club a chance to tell me I'm wrong).
Do Pyramid Golds feel like that? I doubt it.
I read that "Hofner" flats are made by Pyramid (but aren't Golds), but I don't know that *these* flats are Hofner flats, and I doubt it unless someone corrects me.
I've had about six different kinds/weights of La Bella flats/tapes, including the Jamerson's, and none were like this.
Anyway, not upset because I would have changed them anyway.
This is just "info" for the club.
Got it!
Since this is a special line of these basses I am surprised the strings are so bad. I wonder if this a one off or if they are usually that bad?
Ignition Club Pro:
Changed from stock approx. 45-105 to La Bella 760FHB2 39-96. Overwhelming better strings, as I said. So, needed truss rod adjustment (3 x 1/6 turn), intonation, nutwork, etc., but it already needed these things anyway. On a hollowbody there is more interaction between some of these things, as people who own hollowbodies probably already know, but this is my first, and it's quite a challenge.
Used a strobe-type tuner app to guide moving the bridge and saddles. Bridge position/angle is so close now I marked its location with masking tape (flat on the body, on the side closer to the tailpiece), in case it walks. Because of the angle of the strings over the saddles, I think if it walks it will be more likely away from the tailpiece. We'll see.
I'm still working on the nut slots, and so string height, and so intonation, further. But, to make a long story short...
I believe that the intonation is going to be easily good enough. It is at the moment. Sounds great.
**
TIJFs (which I like very much but haven't tried on a short scale) and La Bella tapes (which I haven't tried yet) are the only other strings I will consider, but I will certainly try them on another short scale bass first, not this one.
In the past, on other basses, thicker La Bella DTFs have turned too thumpy for me, so I have preferred more flexible strings, but I have LTF 42-100 on another short scale bass and they are behaving well so far. I hope these 760FHB2 stay good!
Fret edge dressing is perfect.
Finish, appearance perfect.
Nut slots need work.
Changed from stock approx. 45-105 to La Bella 760FHB2 39-96. Overwhelming better strings, as I said. So, needed truss rod adjustment (3 x 1/6 turn), intonation, nutwork, etc., but it already needed these things anyway. On a hollowbody there is more interaction between some of these things, as people who own hollowbodies probably already know, but this is my first, and it's quite a challenge.
Used a strobe-type tuner app to guide moving the bridge and saddles. Bridge position/angle is so close now I marked its location with masking tape (flat on the body, on the side closer to the tailpiece), in case it walks. Because of the angle of the strings over the saddles, I think if it walks it will be more likely away from the tailpiece. We'll see.
I'm still working on the nut slots, and so string height, and so intonation, further. But, to make a long story short...
I believe that the intonation is going to be easily good enough. It is at the moment. Sounds great.
**
TIJFs (which I like very much but haven't tried on a short scale) and La Bella tapes (which I haven't tried yet) are the only other strings I will consider, but I will certainly try them on another short scale bass first, not this one.
In the past, on other basses, thicker La Bella DTFs have turned too thumpy for me, so I have preferred more flexible strings, but I have LTF 42-100 on another short scale bass and they are behaving well so far. I hope these 760FHB2 stay good!
Fret edge dressing is perfect.
Finish, appearance perfect.
Nut slots need work.
I have always used Pyramid flat wound strings on my Hofner. I am now on my second set after 15 years. The good news is that you can buy them on Amazon and they ship from Germany. Still loving this bass and it is aging well according to my luthier.
~I bought an Ignition Club "Pro". It's green.
It is a precious little jewel.
I was relieved to see a thick-enough neck profile (as this helps avoid dead/weak spots). I'll measure and post it later.
Its neck dive is nearly zero, maybe because of these guitar-sized tuners, but it does flop forward like an EB/SG. I'll also share with you what I do about that later.
The strings aren't going to work for me, but I expected this. They're approx 45-105 and the E is totally dead.
Will install either La Bella, TIJF, or Cobalt flats, minimum gauge. Don't need exact Beatles sound. Must have clarity.
I expect a time-consuming process to get it intonated as closely as possible (partly because I intend to avoid scratching it around the bridge), so I'll wait until after the string change.
Strings [FYI] :
I too own an Ignition Club [silver sparkle - pics are on my TB media gallery page], and it had DR short scale rounds on it from the previous owner.
I played it for a few gigs [ remember gigs ?
], decided that I wanted flats, but didn't like the limited gauge choices in the LaBella Beatle-cut offerings, nor of the DR short scale flats.I measured the distance from the bridge saddles to the nut, and though I cannot say whether ALL Hofners will be the same, MINE was about 32".
LaBella publishes that their regular short scale bass strings have 32.25" of wrapped length, and offer 4 or 5 choices of gauges in sets of flats alone.
I ordered some.
They fit.
Truss rod was fine as it was, and intonation only needed change on SOME of the strings, not moving the whole bridge assembly.
I think that I filed the nut a bit, but not sure, as it was 2 years ago now, and it felt like a pro had set it up previously.
My choice was their Low Tension Flats [42-100], which installed routinely, and tuned and sounded just fine.
The outside of these is VERY smooth !
If you order these, be sure to put the 90 degree bend in the string BEFORE you cut it to length, as they have round cores, and might unwrap if you do not.
Their Deep Talking Flats [sets available in 4 gauge choices, IIRC] have the same published wrap length, and so a regular short scale set of those should fit too.
That said, please DO measure your bass before ordering, in case there are variances in the tailpiece lengths on the various production runs.
I ordered the 43-104 set of those for another [non-Hofner] bass, but have not yet installed them.
~
Last edited:
Public service announcement:
With La Bella 760FHB2 strings on my Ignition Club,
and using a strobe-type tuner app,
after a long process, this is where my saddles and bridge need to be (masking tape marker is temporary).
Next I need to work on the nut, then the whole bridge might have to move again, but hopefully not the saddles relative to one another.
With La Bella 760FHB2 strings on my Ignition Club,
and using a strobe-type tuner app,
after a long process, this is where my saddles and bridge need to be (masking tape marker is temporary).
Next I need to work on the nut, then the whole bridge might have to move again, but hopefully not the saddles relative to one another.
- Feb 26, 2011
- 143
- 112
- 51
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Pyramid Strings
yeah, I had to do a double-take on that, too. I thought it only yesterday that I got a prototype CT bass. but, I guess math beats me once again!!!
Hi. A few weeks ago, I acquired a 1967 500/1 violin bass. It wasn’t planned at all but it happened, and I am happy because it’s a nice instrument.
I just received new strings yesterday that I installed right away. Judging by the state of previous strings, they must have been on for 30 years if not more! Anyway, I got the La Bella Beatle Bass Flat Wound, and I believe the tension will be less than before. The neck is quite straight, but I was thinking of adjusting the truss rod to have just a tiny bit of relief. That’s when I noticed that the mechanism is different and does not require a hex key (or a screwdriver — or a paint can opener) as it is a nut and bolt system instead.
I usually set up my instruments myself, but I have not worked with this type of truss rod before. Anything I should be aware of before I start? Also, there really isn’t much space around that nut. Thankfully, the bass is entirely playable the way it is, if I have to leave the neck like that.
I just received new strings yesterday that I installed right away. Judging by the state of previous strings, they must have been on for 30 years if not more! Anyway, I got the La Bella Beatle Bass Flat Wound, and I believe the tension will be less than before. The neck is quite straight, but I was thinking of adjusting the truss rod to have just a tiny bit of relief. That’s when I noticed that the mechanism is different and does not require a hex key (or a screwdriver — or a paint can opener) as it is a nut and bolt system instead.
I usually set up my instruments myself, but I have not worked with this type of truss rod before. Anything I should be aware of before I start? Also, there really isn’t much space around that nut. Thankfully, the bass is entirely playable the way it is, if I have to leave the neck like that.
- Feb 26, 2011
- 143
- 112
- 51
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Pyramid Strings
That requires a nut driver...not to be confused with a Knight Rider. I can't recall the exact size, but, it's definitely metric. After that everything else is the same as always.
- Mar 8, 2011
- 12,232
- 51,187
- Disclosures
- Authorized greenboy designs builder/Owner of BNA Audio
I have a ‘67 as well. Amazing bass that is great for recording sessions, congrats!
And for what it’s worth, I think TI Jazz flats work really well on that bass
