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Hofner or Danelectro?

Should I buy a used Danelectro or Hofner Icon/Ignition?

  • Hofner

    Votes: 12 26.1%
  • Danelectro

    Votes: 28 60.9%
  • Something else (please explain)

    Votes: 6 13.0%

  • Total voters
    46
No, is there a problem here? it's part of the hyperbole surrounding Dan Electro probably stemming from the use of Masonite, which is in some cases a kind of particle board. I don't know which guitars may have used Masonite, but some did, probably when it was available or trending.

Disinformation can easily become a problem.

Particle board and masonite are definitely not the same. Check if you wish. Danelectros have always used masonite on their non solidbodies.
 
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The original Danos were made with Masonite , a pressed particle board . And many , but not all of the re-issues are too . Truth is , Masonite turns out to be a lovely tonewood . And regarding the metal adjustable Dano bridges ... there are many aficionados that declare the wooden bridges to have a better sound . There is a sweet spot for the bridge where the intonation is fine . I quickly found it on mine , but some have issues trying to locate the right spot ... I have an old late 60's Hofner and a Longhorn . The Hofner hangs on the wall . The Dano is used on most gigs .
 
Disinformation can easily become a problem.

Particle board and masonite are definitely not the same. Check if you wish.
from the Masonitewiki, as well as building all the Hollywood sets Masonite is formed using the Mason method, in which wood chips are disintegrated by saturating them with 100-pound-per-square-inch (690 kPa) steam, then increasing the steam or air pressure to 400 pounds per square inch (2,800 kPa) and suddenly releasing them through an orifice to atmospheric pressure. Forming the fibers into boards on a screen, the boards are then pressed and heated to form the finished product with a smooth burnished finish. (Later a dry process with two burnished surfaces was also used.) The original lignin in the wood serves to bond the fibers without any added adhesive. The long fibers give Masonite a high bending strength,tensile density, and stability.
 
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from the Masonitewiki, as well as building all the Hollywood sets Masonite is formed using the Mason method, in which wood chips are disintegrated by saturating them with 100-pound-per-square-inch (690 kPa) steam, then increasing the steam or air pressure to 400 pounds per square inch (2,800 kPa) and suddenly releasing them through an orifice to atmospheric pressure. Forming the fibers into boards on a screen, the boards are then pressed and heated to form the finished product with a smooth burnished finish. (Later a dry process with two burnished surfaces was also used.) The original lignin in the wood serves to bond the fibers without any added adhesive. The long fibers give Masonite a high bending strength,tensile density, and stability.

What that shows is masonite is not the same as particleboard.
 
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I have a Dan Electro Hodad (2 pickup, but I also once owned the 3), and an Ignition Club bass. Not sure I'm going to be of much help, as it is a tough call.

They're both featherweights, but the Hodad is practically a no-weight. Feels like I have nothing around my neck. The plusses for me on the Dano are the tone controls, and the ability to blend the pickups. For some reason I also like the thin body... but it ends there.

What I like about the Hodad is that despite the lack of tone controls, the bass sits perfectly in a R&R mix. I was blown away actually, the first time I played it with a band (and at the time it was a Zep tribute). It cut through pounding drums, and sounded awesome. Thick, rich, sweet and perfectly balanced. I can't say that for the Hodad. While it was capable some cool sounds, mine was a lot barkier and boomier than the Hofner, and those cool sounds were a bit difficult to dial in. Some people prefer arkier and boomier basses though... so there ya have it :).

I will never let go of my Hofner. I might very well let go of my Danelectro.

I'd wait for crazy sales, use Musicians friend 15% off plus 8% Backstage pass or whatever - try to find used deals maybe, and buy both. Check them both out for a while, and then sell the one you like less. What's going to fit best with your particular band, and what will feel better to you will be different than for anybody else. Ya might wind up like both, too :).

Oh yeah... another important thing - the neck on the Hofner is far more stable than the neck on the Danelectro. I had to adjust and readjust constantly with the Dano. The Hodad, strangely enough I set up once, when I got it at least a year and half ago. You need to remove the neck on some Danos too in order to adjust the truss rod. You may want to consider that. I don't know what its like on a Longhorn.
 
I had a longhorn many years ago. For some reason I just didn’t like it (I might now but I didn’t 30 years ago). I have two Hofners, an ignition and a CT. I know the quality of the CT is better and it might be more versatile, but prefer the ignition - it’s very,very light and has that limited but wonderful Hofner thud and boom.
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I appreciate all the comments on this so far. This has been exceptionally helpful. The unfortunate (to my wallet) thing is that it may have increased my GAS. Given my complete satisfaction with my Mustang with flats...I am starting to think that what I really need (vs. want) is a bass that is light and will rock some round (or at least less flat) strings. I am happy to hear so many positive comments on the cheaper Hofners vs the Contemporary versions. I almost pulled the trigger on an overpriced used black Contemporary the other day.
 
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If I have missed options on an light-ish weight bass that rocks some rounds I would love to hear them. Anything under about 7lbs would be useful for those times when the old back is not cooperating. Of course less would be better.
 
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The original Danos were made with Masonite , a pressed particle board . And many , but not all of the re-issues are too . Truth is , Masonite turns out to be a lovely tonewood . And regarding the metal adjustable Dano bridges ... there are many aficionados that declare the wooden bridges to have a better sound . There is a sweet spot for the bridge where the intonation is fine . I quickly found it on mine , but some have issues trying to locate the right spot ... I have an old late 60's Hofner and a Longhorn . The Hofner hangs on the wall . The Dano is used on most gigs .
I had a 60's Longhorn for a while, and i never had problems getting it intonated. However, mine literally had a couple crooked frets. QC wasn't necessarily a big thing on Danos back then. Now I have a Jerry Jones Longhorn (with the adjustable bridge) and I will never part with that bass. In the studio it has proven itself to even be a "pbass killer" at times. At any rate, I'd have to agree that the Dano is more versatile than the Hofner, if only because it has that solid, sit in the mix, sound. A Hofner is more idiosyncratic sounding, for lack of a better term. Love them both.
EDIT: after re-reading the OP, based on what you already have and that you also plan to build that P, then I'd say the Hofner would be a very cool addition - most definitely a different flavor than the rest of the quiver! That said, Longhorns do look super cool in rootsy/Americana/etc settings...;)
 
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A Hofner Contemporary Series Verythin has proven to have a ton of character. I had never played a Hofner in my life, but after eating at the Bavarian Bierhaus I got the idea to try one. So, I bought the Verythin with some trade money, slapped Pyramids on it. It sounds an awful lot like the tone McCartney gets on Don’t Let Me Down, Rooftop Concert......lots of f’ing character, narrow string spacing.

The Club Bass, I think it’d be a winner.