How about some advice.

[LT131]

I purchased a Squier VM Tele about 6 weeks ago. I have been playing and tinkering but a couple of things I don't know how to fix.

1. There is a ground problem, I think. When no touching the base there is noise. If I touch just the bridge it gets worse. I have read that it may be a bad connection to the bridge. If so, do I just unscrew the thing and Re-solder?

2. The tone control is spectacularly non-linear. The bottom rolls off very quickly. Is this common or is it a cheap/defective pot? If replacing the pot is the answer are there any pots that would be considered an upgrade? Who is the best source for such a pot?

I had the unexpected pleasure of jamming with a couple of friends recently. First time in2-3 years. Playing thru a Bassman 60 the thing proved a pleasant surprise. A little neck heavy, but the stock PUP worked well and the mid scale neck was a joy. It is a keeper. Did have to re-locate my thumb rest though.

How about string recommendations. I'm sure that Squire only uses the best, high tech strings but I think some improvement could be made there. I have used GHS Boomers in the past but am open to ideas.

 

[P. Aaron]

It may not be shielded inside. I bought an MIM Vintage '57 Stratocaster years ago 'cause I liked the V-neck of that era. It turns out Fender had them replicate everything else about the guitar too: un-shielded cavity and the PU's had to be dipped in paraffin (or some such) to clean them up.

The 60-cycle hum is a classic feature of single coils from that build era. There's been improvements to quiet them if not eliminate that hum altogether but, depending upon your angle to the amp, it can cancel itself to a degree.

Have a guitar tech address these issues. Perhap $30-60 bucks to soften that buzz.

I personally like DR Low Rider Nickels and DR Sumbeams. Nickel just feels easier on my fingers. Tone-wise they have a nice zing but they also last through all sorts of weather cycles.

 

[DinoRock]

I've played Tele basses, though not Squires, so tale this at face value. I used to put RS Flat 77s on them. Nice flatwound sound that is just a bit brighter than most flats. I always have at least one of my P-basses strung with the 77s.

 

[LT131]

Thanks for the replies. I haven't touched a flat wound in 25 years but am really tempted to give them a whirl on this one. Since this one came with a set of 40-95 rounds would switching to a comparable size in flats require any change in nut or setup?

 

[Muddslide]

Thanks for the replies. I haven't touched a flat wound in 25 years but am really tempted to give them a whirl on this one. Since this one came with a set of 40-95 rounds would switching to a comparable size in flats require any change in nut or setup?

I don't believe it should, using similar gauges. I really dig DR strings. Haven't tried them, but people seem to speak very highly of DR flatwound chromes.

 

[DinoRock]

Thanks for the replies. I haven't touched a flat wound in 25 years but am really tempted to give them a whirl on this one. Since this one came with a set of 40-95 rounds would switching to a comparable size in flats require any change in nut or setup?

Yes. Virtually any change of strings will/should require a complete setup/check. Certainly going from 40-95 to 45-105 (or if you go with Fender flats I believe it is 45-100), will require a setup. Truss rod check/adjustment and saddles check/adjustment for height and intonation.

 

[DinoRock]

I don't believe it should, using similar gauges. I really dig DR strings. Haven't tried them, but people seem to speak very highly of DR flatwound chromes.

I agree. DR Chrome are very nice and I have them on a Ric and a Jazz. I've tried them on Ps but I like the slightly brighter 77s on a P. All personal preference. Also, my main activity is studio work, so you might not notice these subtitles live. During years of playing out, I always grabbed a bass with RS 66s, which I felt gave me the bottom without producing mud. I didn't like flats for the music I used to play out with.

 

[LT131]

The DR's sound like a definite maybe. Has anyone experienced half-rounds?

Also, I would appreciate some input on the tone control question.

 

[DinoRock]

I just looked at the profile of the OP. If your primary concern is recording and messing about in the house, and you play 60s and 70s rock (among other genres), I would urge you to have fun with some section of strings, remind you that some take a few weeks to break in, and would think you should consider some popular brand of flats (DR, RS, Fenders, GHS, etc). I'm a computer science type so I deal in 1s and 0s. I can't make sense of 0.5s - i.e., I've never tried half rounds or sorta flats Some on this forum speak well of half rounds, but it seems to be a pretty small percentage who use them.

 

[Muddslide]

Yes. Virtually any change of strings will/should require a complete setup/check. Certainly going from 40-95 to 45-105 (or if you go with Fender flats I believe it is 45-100), will require a setup. Truss rod check/adjustment and saddles check/adjustment for height and intonation.

To clarify, this is true. I was speaking of the nut. A change in gauges could require some slot adjustment, but I've done without and had no issues on some occasions.