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How do I clean mold off tweed?


Once you've treated and cleaned the mold, you might want to apply an actual finish - the reissue cases are raw tweed that easily absorbs dirt and stains, unlike the originals which were finished with shellac and lacquer to provide some protection.

I've used Fender tweed finish techniques (mostly) as originally applied by Fender in the '50s, based on info I got from Fender's cabinet shop supervisor at the time, Sam Hutton, whom I met in the late '80s. The first step after gluing and drying the tweed was to apply shellac and let it dry. (use in well ventilated area, wear a respirator, keep away from sparks or flames) The shellac would quickly soak into the tweed and then dry.

Then block sand with 200-240 grit sandpaper - that initial shellac coat penetrates the tweed and allows for smooth-sanding without destroying the tweed - it'll fray if you sand without first sealing it.

Then apply a few more coats, lightly sanding and cleaning w/microfiber in between coats. For a final coat, I use matte-finish polyurethane lacquer; You can use nitro like Fender did in the '50's; I prefer poly for added protection - whatever you use should be matte-finish.

If you want the tweed to have an aged amber look, either add a couple drops of universal orange to the final shellac coat or use amber-tinted lacquer.

Mask off the non-tweed covering and hardware; use brush for the shellac, I've found spray can to be easiest for the final lacquer coat.

It can be kind of fun project.

And once you're done, the smooth finish is great for applying all kinds of tacky, funky stickers and decals.
 
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