How do I stop fret buzz?

[rlenard]

Hi. I'm new to this site and wondering how to adjust the action on the bass because my lower strings are riding way too low on the neck and they are hitting the frets causing the buzzing sound. I just got new strings, and I own a squier mustang Mikey Way signature bass, if that helps. There's nothing I see that raises the strings, and I need advice from people with more experience. Thanks

 

[hover]

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Start here (the "barrels" the strings pass over are saddles, and they are adjustable for height.), alongside checking the relief (amount of bow) in the neck. And do a search on setups here, there's a million threads on the subject. For the love of all things holy if you don't feel comfortable making adjustments, spend the money on a setup...it's not worth damaging the bass over 30 bucks.

 

[Emanuel Apascaritei]

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There you go, you have to do what´s shown as Nº4 in the pic. Clockwise.

 

[rlenard]

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Start here (the "barrels" the strings pass over are saddles, and they are adjustable for height.), alongside checking the relief (amount of bow) in the neck. And do a search on setups here, there's a million threads on the subject. For the love of all things holy if you don't feel comfortable making adjustments, spend the money on a setup.

Thank you so much!!! Aaagh I've been trying to fix this for a long time!!! Thank you!

 

[wmhill]

If you are that unfamiliar with the parts & function of the bridge- take it to a trusted repair shop and see if they will work on with you there so you can get an idea how it's done and next time tackle it yourself. Everything you do, trussrod,string height and intonation will effect the others.

 

[WoodyG3]

There is a process, and an order in which you need to do things when setting up, or else you can wind up chasing your own tail. The videos at this link are the best I've found to take you through the process.

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[jwj1701]

Since you've got a Mikey signature on fenders website there are video tutorials for guitar and bass set ups. If you've never done this before you may want to take it to your local store and ask them to do it then you can watch and learn. The video tutorials are good info for lots of things you can do with your instrument .

 

[David Jayne]

Everything you do, trussrod,string height and intonation will effect the others.

Well let's not get crazy. I'm not able to see how intonation adjustments could affect the truss rod adjustment. You could maybe argue that action adjustments might affect intonation but it's not rocket science.

 

[hover]

I was merely suggesting all other things aside, that raising the bridge saddles would be an excellent, non destructive way of checking to see if even a very slight raising takes care of the symptom addressed in the OP.
If it *doesn't*, then the logical next steps like checking neck relief, etc, should / could be addressed.
Holy blown out of proportion Batman.

 

[BassHappy]

The best setup guide I have ever seen is here:

http://www.jerzydrozdbasses.com/en/...=akcndfr54jdhrei567/Ultimate_Guide_ver100.pdf

And I am sure with some patience and reading it will answer any and all questions....

Best of luck with it - I know how frustrating it can be...

BassHappy
www.innertainment.net

 

[wmhill]

Well let's not get crazy. I'm not able to see how intonation adjustments could affect the truss rod adjustment. You could maybe argue that action adjustments might affect intonation but it's not rocket science.

you're right -lets not get crazy- My point was to get him to see it done once, before diving in. No it's not rocket science, and I was generalizing that all those things effect other....not that intonation would change the truss rod. Relax, I was trying to help the dude out.

 

[David Jayne]

you're right -lets not get crazy- My point was to get him to see it done once, before diving in. No it's not rocket science, and I was generalizing that all those things effect other....not that intonation would change the truss rod. Relax, I was trying to help the dude out.

The guy needed to adjust his bridge and you tell him to take it to a tech. I'm sorry if I seem negative but I just don't think that was very helpful. No offense intended.

 

[WoodyG3]

Guys, adjusting the bridge without checking the fretboard relief is like pumping air into a tire before checking to see if there's a nail in it. I think you will confuse someone new to set-ups if you don't help them to learn the whole process.

 

[Liam Wald]

Take it to a pro and pay for a set up.
Ask if you can hang out and watch.
Most guitar techs that I know are pretty cool about that.
If a tech says no move on and find one that says yes.
You will learn a few things and get rid of the buzz in the process.

 

[hover]

Guys, adjusting the bridge without checking the fretboard relief is like pumping air into a tire before checking to see if there's a nail in it.

But I DID suggest that. 2nd post. And alluded to there being a zillion setup threads on the matter.
You know, that whole lead a horse to water thing?

 

[PBASSTONE]

The way I do my set up's is as follows:

Step 1 Truss Rod adjustment. This is the foundation of the bass set up and must be done first. This MUST be done in playing position (don't lay the bass on the workbench because the weight of the bass wil throw off the settings). I use a capo on the first fret (on top of the fret), and then fret the neck where the neck meets the body. I use the feeler gauge blade that is .015" and put the feeler gauge under the "E" string on top of the 7th fret. If the string lifts from sliding the feeler gauge under it, the truss rod is to tight and will need to be loosened slightly. Use the appropriate allen key at the top of the neck and turn the nut counter clockwise until the feeler gauge slides under without lifting the string.

Step 2 Bridge Height adjustment. This requiers a small ruler calibrated with either 32" or 64" markings. Again this must be done in playing position. Take and place the ruler on top of the fret nearest to where the neck joins the body. Now measure the "E" string from the top of the fret to the bottom of the "E" string. You want the measurement to be 4/32". If it's to high or too low adjust your bridge saddle screws appropriately up or down. Be sure to make the same amount of turns on both of the saddles adjustment screws. If you don't you'll screw up the string spacing. Now do the "A" string to about 3 and a half 32nd of an inch. Now the "D" string slightly lower than the A string. The "G" string should be at 3/32".

Step 3 Nut Height Adjustment. Now this is done with the bass on the bench, not in playing postion. You'll need a set of nut files, and a feeler gauge. I use the feeler gauge blade that is .022". Slide the blade on top of the first fret, in between the fret and the "E" string. Now measure the distance between the top of the fret and the bottom of the "E" string. If there is a gap between the feeler gauge and the bottom of the "E" string then the nut must be cut with the appropriate nut file for the size of the string slot in the nut. The nut file size is determined by the gauge of the strings you use. Check each string individually with the .022" blade and adjust each nut slot appropriately. DON'T OVER CUT THE NUT unless you want string buzz.

Step 4 String Length Adjustment (Intonation). String length adjustment is the comparison of the open note on the string, and the fretted octave on the 12th fret. Tune all your strings as you would normally do. Then check the intonation of each string on the 12th fret. If the pitch is sharp the string must be lengthened. If the pitch is to flat then the string must be shortened. On the bottom of the bridge, use a phillips screw driver to adjust the saddle length adjustment screw to make the appropriate adjustments for each string. Then retune your bass and check the intonation again at the 12th fret. Keep doing this until the string is in tune on the open and octave notes.

 

[pacojas]

@PBASSTONE,..

thanks alot for the amazing headache!

 

[PBASSTONE]

@PBASSTONE,..

thanks alot for the amazing headache!

You're very welcome

 

[C130AVN]

Get a measuring tool from stew mac ( or maybe someone else sells one ) it measures in 64th of an inch and in thousandths, string height in 1000ths. some feeler gauges (.010 to .025 ). There are many good setup guides available on you tube to walk you through the process. Unfortunately Instruments are intended to be precisely tuned so they require precise measurement and adjustment, spending $30.00 on some basic tools and learning how to use them will pay you back dividends later on, not to mention save you money. You will able to set up a bass to play the way YOU like it.

 

[Hopkins]

Guys, adjusting the bridge without checking the fretboard relief is like pumping air into a tire before checking to see if there's a nail in it. I think you will confuse someone new to set-ups if you don't help them to learn the whole process.

This 100%, I see more basses with mile high action, because players think the best way to get rid of a string buzz is to raise the action, when a minor truss rod tweak was the correct fix.

Get a measuring tool from stew mac ( or maybe someone else sells one ) it measures in 64th of an inch and in thousandths, string height in 1000ths. some feeler gauges (.010 to .025 ). There are many good setup guides available on you tube to walk you through the process. Unfortunately Instruments are intended to be precisely tuned so they require precise measurement and adjustment, spending $30.00 on some basic tools and learning how to use them will pay you back dividends later on, not to mention save you money. You will able to set up a bass to play the way YOU like it.

A cheap set of feeler gauges should cost no more than 5 bucks, and measuring action to the nearest 1/64th is really unnecessary. Relief set to .008 to .010 is the sweet spot 0.012 is the highest I would go. As far as setting action, it is very easy to do by feel once the relief is correct. I set relief by feel as well, I have been doing it long enough that I can set it with in my preferred range by simply tapping the string down at the 7th fret with the string fretted at the 1st and 20th fret. I rarely use any measuring tools unless the player is very specific about how he/she wants the bass set up. Basses are really not the precision instruments they are made out to be, once you get a feel for how you like them set up, and a working knowledge of how the adjustments function, it should take about 5 minutes to set it up to your liking.